Tas Rear Suspension 'How To'??

[ctsdave]

Morning all,

Does anyone have a 'how to' guide for the working/settign up of tasmin rear suspension? Had some issues with the racer at the weekend (gear linkage bracket came adrift ending with a trip to the gravel, and that seemingly knocked the rear geometry miles out, as discovered after race 1!).

We've got the earlier type with trainling arm and sway bar, the drive shaft acting as the top link. All on rosejoints. Any information as to what adjusts what (camber, caster, toe) would be hugely appreciated!

Thanks in advance

Dave

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

Might be worth speaking to Sam head, as he had the car originally set-up and they did a very good job.
Let me know what you find, as I could do with some tweak on mine, as I've got too much oversteer, it is controllable though

Edited by TVRleigh_BBWR on Tuesday 15th June 10:14

[NTEL]

I'm saying nowt

[MJG280]

My notes say that the washers behind the pin set the rear toe in and the shims behind the Drive shaft do the camber.
The camber shims will change the toe in, but trailing arm washers will not affect camber, so camber first.

toe in 4.5mm + / - 1.5mm
camber 0.5 deg. + / - 0.5 deg.

Never touched any of it myself yet! As you have it all jointed I suppose it must be easier to adjust.

[adam quantrill]

Are you allowed tie-rods between the hubs and the rear outrigger bars under the formula? These can help prevent trailing arm suspension squirming about under load. Are the swivel pins on rose joints though? That would sort this out too.

[ctsdave]

Dave - Don't blame you sayin nowt mate, lol! Looks like the BM has bent the steering arm on ours...

Adam - Ours at the moment has the trailing arm from the hub to the bracket under the back of he diff, though rosejointed for adjustment at the inner edge. We replaced the outer bushes with rubber from nylon due to time constraints but will be going back to nylon for the next round. There's also the sway bar (I think that's the term) that is part of the hub and goes forward to the chassis (front of the diff area). Again this is rosejointed where it bolts to the chassis. We also have a rear anti roll bar. I will get pics if this will help??

Hope that all makes sense!!

Dave

[Wedg1e]

ctsdave said:

Dave - Don't blame you sayin nowt mate, lol! Looks like the BM has bent the steering arm on ours...

Adam - Ours at the moment has the trailing arm from the hub to the bracket under the back of he diff, though rosejointed for adjustment at the inner edge. We replaced the outer bushes with rubber from nylon due to time constraints but will be going back to nylon for the next round. There's also the sway bar (I think that's the term) that is part of the hub and goes forward to the chassis (front of the diff area). Again this is rosejointed where it bolts to the chassis. We also have a rear anti roll bar. I will get pics if this will help??

Hope that all makes sense!!

Dave

I think you have them the wrong way round: the trailing arm is the long box-section that heads forward from the hub carrier to the spine of the chassis; the sway bars (although I knew them as radius rods) are the ones that tie the hub carrier to the rear of the diff..

[ctsdave]

Thanks Wedg1e! Still getting used to how it all works on a Taz! IMO the Griff dad races is far easier to work on re: suspension setup etc, lol!

Edited by ctsdave on Wednesday 16th June 08:26