Running like a bag of nuts and bolts - Any ideas??
Discussion
Hi all,
Just got back from a weekend at Le-mans classic which was superb! The wedge was awesome through all the blistering 36+ degrees heat in traffic as well as motorways all weekend which was great!
However, as we went to leave yesterday morning she started rough and sounded like it was badly misfiring.
Managed to drive all the way to the ferry (slowly and painfully) with no over heating issues etc...
No power, very lumpy and shaky.
Called the RAC who met us at Dover to check the car over, and cant work out what the problem is. There appears to be spark at all cylinders but just running crappy.
Could this be a symptom from blocked injectors? Maybe a broken down distributor? Thats the only thought i have at the moment.
All ideas gratefully appreciated.
Cheers, Matt
Just got back from a weekend at Le-mans classic which was superb! The wedge was awesome through all the blistering 36+ degrees heat in traffic as well as motorways all weekend which was great!
However, as we went to leave yesterday morning she started rough and sounded like it was badly misfiring.
Managed to drive all the way to the ferry (slowly and painfully) with no over heating issues etc...
No power, very lumpy and shaky.
Called the RAC who met us at Dover to check the car over, and cant work out what the problem is. There appears to be spark at all cylinders but just running crappy.
Could this be a symptom from blocked injectors? Maybe a broken down distributor? Thats the only thought i have at the moment.
All ideas gratefully appreciated.
Cheers, Matt
Sounds like AFM needs cleaning.
Takes about 30 mins disconnect from plenum hose and split it by undoing the screws and 1 bolt on the case if your carefull you can salvage the gasket if not a bead of silicone sealant will do nicely.
When you open it up you can see a small hole through which you can just make out a small resistor looking component spray copious amounts of electrical contact cleaner through the hole shake it out and let it evaporate and then put it back together.
I think this will cure it its made a fantastic improvement to mine, improved response and tickover.
Good Luck Pault0007
Takes about 30 mins disconnect from plenum hose and split it by undoing the screws and 1 bolt on the case if your carefull you can salvage the gasket if not a bead of silicone sealant will do nicely.
When you open it up you can see a small hole through which you can just make out a small resistor looking component spray copious amounts of electrical contact cleaner through the hole shake it out and let it evaporate and then put it back together.
I think this will cure it its made a fantastic improvement to mine, improved response and tickover.
Good Luck Pault0007
matt-man said:
Hi all,
Just got back from a weekend at Le-mans classic which was superb! The wedge was awesome through all the blistering 36+ degrees heat in traffic as well as motorways all weekend which was great!
However, as we went to leave yesterday morning she started rough and sounded like it was badly misfiring.
Managed to drive all the way to the ferry (slowly and painfully) with no over heating issues etc...
No power, very lumpy and shaky.
Called the RAC who met us at Dover to check the car over, and cant work out what the problem is. There appears to be spark at all cylinders but just running crappy.
Could this be a symptom from blocked injectors? Maybe a broken down distributor? Thats the only thought i have at the moment.
All ideas gratefully appreciated.
Cheers, Matt
I don't have any suggestions but I'm staying In the Calvados region of France and have seen lots of classics in the last week but no Wedges. At least you got to drive yours to Le Mans. I had to leave mine and drive my Scaab 9-5 because the wife and two kids don't fit in the Wedge.Just got back from a weekend at Le-mans classic which was superb! The wedge was awesome through all the blistering 36+ degrees heat in traffic as well as motorways all weekend which was great!
However, as we went to leave yesterday morning she started rough and sounded like it was badly misfiring.
Managed to drive all the way to the ferry (slowly and painfully) with no over heating issues etc...
No power, very lumpy and shaky.
Called the RAC who met us at Dover to check the car over, and cant work out what the problem is. There appears to be spark at all cylinders but just running crappy.
Could this be a symptom from blocked injectors? Maybe a broken down distributor? Thats the only thought i have at the moment.
All ideas gratefully appreciated.
Cheers, Matt
I had similar problems with my 450 recently. Down on power, and generally not quite right. It would also not restart from hot and would let me down at inconvenient places, suchas petrol stations after a run.
I diagnosed the problem to be the Ignition Amplifier Module on the side of the distributor. Two small bolt/screw things hold it in place. Got a replacement module for £30. Runs much much better now!!
Old module must have been giving out a very weak spark, hence the bad running and when the car was hot and parked up for short periods it was producing no spark at all until it had cooled down.
Just another line of enquiry.
I diagnosed the problem to be the Ignition Amplifier Module on the side of the distributor. Two small bolt/screw things hold it in place. Got a replacement module for £30. Runs much much better now!!
Old module must have been giving out a very weak spark, hence the bad running and when the car was hot and parked up for short periods it was producing no spark at all until it had cooled down.
Just another line of enquiry.
hi all,
Thanks for your thoughts...
Ive cleaned the AFM and will put this back on later on, and think i might give the pack on the distributor a try.
The strange this is, i have had problems in the past with this coming and going but it would be on the odd occasion but would clear after being started a couple of times. This time, the problem is consistant and here to stay!
Temp sensor - Tried this! Also, checked the cols start, all connections and throttle pot.
Ill keep going and let you all know!
Thanks for your thoughts...
Ive cleaned the AFM and will put this back on later on, and think i might give the pack on the distributor a try.
The strange this is, i have had problems in the past with this coming and going but it would be on the odd occasion but would clear after being started a couple of times. This time, the problem is consistant and here to stay!
Temp sensor - Tried this! Also, checked the cols start, all connections and throttle pot.
Ill keep going and let you all know!
rev-erend said:
Matt - I had that with my 400se flapper years ago.
Try swapping the ecu with someone with the same ecu - if it
fixes ityou will know straight away.
Maniman might have the same system.
Hi Alan,Try swapping the ecu with someone with the same ecu - if it
fixes ityou will know straight away.
Maniman might have the same system.
Not tried the ECU yet but did try this a while ago when i had another running issue. I have another ECU from a 3.9 efi flapper rangie which isnt ideal but might try it to see if that gives the problem. Last time i tried it, it worked OK but just 'right'...
Tried the Powerpack module on the dizzy yesterday with a new one, and no cure...
Might be back to basics again...i hate these kind of problems!
Hi Matt-man
Im sure my father and I spoke to you on the Friday or Saturday morning as you were looking for the TVR car park, you stopped at the gates leading on to the road that curved to your right.
We asked how hot the car was running.
If i were you I would go throught the car systematically, start by unconnecting and reconnecting HT leads after checking your plugs, same with injector connectors, temp sensor, AFM, ignition pack, check the dizy cap and rotor making sure the contact points are cleanish, a little emory paper helps, check the voltage on the pot 0.32v with the ignition on and watch for voltage change as you open up the throttle.
If you can try to see what the timming is at 2000rpm with out vacum and have a look around for any areas that may cause air leaks.
Seems strange the car started the trip running well then after a lot of heat start to play up.
Keep at it you will find the problem im sure.
Just need to get mine sorted.
Cambelt
Im sure my father and I spoke to you on the Friday or Saturday morning as you were looking for the TVR car park, you stopped at the gates leading on to the road that curved to your right.
We asked how hot the car was running.
If i were you I would go throught the car systematically, start by unconnecting and reconnecting HT leads after checking your plugs, same with injector connectors, temp sensor, AFM, ignition pack, check the dizy cap and rotor making sure the contact points are cleanish, a little emory paper helps, check the voltage on the pot 0.32v with the ignition on and watch for voltage change as you open up the throttle.
If you can try to see what the timming is at 2000rpm with out vacum and have a look around for any areas that may cause air leaks.
Seems strange the car started the trip running well then after a lot of heat start to play up.
Keep at it you will find the problem im sure.
Just need to get mine sorted.
Cambelt
Hi Cambell, indeed i believe it was me you saw! She was running great at that point!
As an update - I have taken the dizzy apart (top end) to check for crud and bits on the magnetic part. No change..
Gone back to basics and changed the coil lead (hadnt done this recently) and also new plugs.
Still no difference.
SO - What about the 2PR Power Resistor pack? Does this fail? If it does, what does it do?
How about the injectors? Do these block up?
Cheers guys - missing driving her!
As an update - I have taken the dizzy apart (top end) to check for crud and bits on the magnetic part. No change..
Gone back to basics and changed the coil lead (hadnt done this recently) and also new plugs.
Still no difference.
SO - What about the 2PR Power Resistor pack? Does this fail? If it does, what does it do?
How about the injectors? Do these block up?
Cheers guys - missing driving her!
Hi Matt
I would have a look inside the resistor pack and check for dry joints, i think its got some thing to do with the voltage for the injectors.
The injusctors do get crapped up, mine were, the can be cleaned, they have little filters in the top of them to stop the larger buts of crud, as the block up they give poor spray pattern or could weep, also the have plastic nose to protect the tip that can crack and brake part and they sit in a rubber seal, you could have a cracked or broken sean causing an air leak.
Good luck
Cambelt
I would have a look inside the resistor pack and check for dry joints, i think its got some thing to do with the voltage for the injectors.
The injusctors do get crapped up, mine were, the can be cleaned, they have little filters in the top of them to stop the larger buts of crud, as the block up they give poor spray pattern or could weep, also the have plastic nose to protect the tip that can crack and brake part and they sit in a rubber seal, you could have a cracked or broken sean causing an air leak.
Good luck
Cambelt
adam quantrill said:
The resistor pack is only a rare fail. The earth to it is more likely.
If the injectors had blocked they wouln't unblock themselves later for you to be running fine again.
My money is still on resoldering the ECU.
Wedg1e had a ECU in the boot of his car at the BBWF, I am sure he was trying to move it on( now if I was ever going to buy a ECU if would be from him)If the injectors had blocked they wouln't unblock themselves later for you to be running fine again.
My money is still on resoldering the ECU.
I am going to ask him to look at mine when he has time (don't tell him as i haven't asked yet)
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