What to do with the Rover V8
Discussion
My car is a 450SE with a standard Rover V8 engine. It is not the original but appears to be genuine with number starting 46D, which according to http://www.capriracing.co.uk/RoverV8EngineNumbers.... is a New R.R 4.6 efi 9.34:1 cr 1994 onwards. It has a Edlebrock 4-barrel carburretor and develops 242bhp at the wheels.
A concern I have is low oil-pressure on the guage which does not appear to be unusual for this type of engine. Also, I might replace the hydraulic power steering with an electric set-up
As always I would like it to give a little more, but in my case it will be torque rather than out-and-out-power. Replaceing the engine with an LS3 really is not cost justifiable especially for Essex roads. Therefore sticking with the Rover, what suggestions do you guys have? Maybe dry-sumping is an option?
A concern I have is low oil-pressure on the guage which does not appear to be unusual for this type of engine. Also, I might replace the hydraulic power steering with an electric set-up
As always I would like it to give a little more, but in my case it will be torque rather than out-and-out-power. Replaceing the engine with an LS3 really is not cost justifiable especially for Essex roads. Therefore sticking with the Rover, what suggestions do you guys have? Maybe dry-sumping is an option?
Hi Henry, I can't remember from when I saw your car whether it is a serp engine, with the oil pump being driven from the crank, rather than the end of the distributor shaft? The former is the preferable system. What are your pressure readings in various engine states? Dry sumping does sound a bit extreme unless it's going to be used extensively on track though. One of the biggest gains you may be able to make is with a programable ignition system (assuming you want to keep the carbs - if not go programable on fuel and ign. ) What controls ignition at the moment?
7.
7.
As said your not going to gain much HP or torque from dry sumping it. its mainly to make sure you always have oil flow, even at high G's I'm still running a wet-sump and pulling 1.4G's and not had a problem.
242 at the wheels is quite good for a 4.5.
As said it all depends of what the rest of your spec is, and also what you want to achieve, plus what you want to spend.
242 at the wheels is quite good for a 4.5.
As said it all depends of what the rest of your spec is, and also what you want to achieve, plus what you want to spend.
Hello, V8 Developments...?Hi guys, thanks for the posts
In case I confused anyone:
1. I would like to get more torque out of the engine. I've got an electronic box of tricks. The block has a modification fitted to allow the distributor to turn more in order to get the tuning better. Within a reasonable cost are there further modifications that can be made?
2. The power steering should be replaced with electric as it drains engine power and the pipework is torturous.
3. Dry sumping is an option to improve oil pressure especially at low revs. The current pump is driven off the front of the engine. I will inspect it over the winter to see whether the wear is a root cause.
4. By the way, over the winter I should be altering the location of the tie-rods on the rear suspension to reduce wheel hop and torsional pressure.
In case I confused anyone:
1. I would like to get more torque out of the engine. I've got an electronic box of tricks. The block has a modification fitted to allow the distributor to turn more in order to get the tuning better. Within a reasonable cost are there further modifications that can be made?
2. The power steering should be replaced with electric as it drains engine power and the pipework is torturous.
3. Dry sumping is an option to improve oil pressure especially at low revs. The current pump is driven off the front of the engine. I will inspect it over the winter to see whether the wear is a root cause.
4. By the way, over the winter I should be altering the location of the tie-rods on the rear suspension to reduce wheel hop and torsional pressure.
The power steering pump only takes significant power when you are turning the steering wheel at low speed. You try dipping the clutch so the engine is idling, then steering. It's only when you are creeping along slowly that you might stall the engine - and an idling engine is only putting out a couple of hp in the first place.
As for increasing torque - a longer throw crank, or a supercharger, will both give you a torque increase across the rev range. Either method might end up with a lower rev limit though.
As for increasing torque - a longer throw crank, or a supercharger, will both give you a torque increase across the rev range. Either method might end up with a lower rev limit though.
If the oilpump is crank driven (known as serpentine engine, the later version and a large wide belt driving the waterpump, alternator, etc.) you should not have oil pressure problems...
Three things spring to mind:
- as you mentioned, would have the oilpump checked and if necessary replaced
- What is the oil you are using if too high rating (50 or 60)? It could be too thick and causing issues due to that.
- The oilpump has an oil pressure relieve spring. This can become weak and it can be replaced easily.
On my wedge (standard ' 86 350i not serpentine have done this: replaced oil pressure relieve spring and have the idle not at 800 but at 1000, and oil pressure is good under all circumstances and due to a bit higher idle no oilpressure warning light coming on.
Rob
Three things spring to mind:
- as you mentioned, would have the oilpump checked and if necessary replaced
- What is the oil you are using if too high rating (50 or 60)? It could be too thick and causing issues due to that.
- The oilpump has an oil pressure relieve spring. This can become weak and it can be replaced easily.
On my wedge (standard ' 86 350i not serpentine have done this: replaced oil pressure relieve spring and have the idle not at 800 but at 1000, and oil pressure is good under all circumstances and due to a bit higher idle no oilpressure warning light coming on.
Rob
Thanks Rob.
The oil pressure relief valve has been replaced. At revs between 2,000 and 2,500, the oil pressure guage is showing on the first mark (25 psi). As I mentioned, the oil pressure light does not come on when idling. The guage drops to just above zero. Also, above about 3,000 rpm, there is lot more noise from the engine as if there is some oil starvation from the hydraulic tappets. But remember I am just learning about all this and I find it fascinating.
The oil pressure relief valve has been replaced. At revs between 2,000 and 2,500, the oil pressure guage is showing on the first mark (25 psi). As I mentioned, the oil pressure light does not come on when idling. The guage drops to just above zero. Also, above about 3,000 rpm, there is lot more noise from the engine as if there is some oil starvation from the hydraulic tappets. But remember I am just learning about all this and I find it fascinating.
I have a serp engine in the racer with crank driven pump. and I get very good pressure with 20/50
I have a SPA digital pressure and temp. sensor linked to a data logger so have very acurate Pressure logs, with rev's and temp.
What pressures you getting and I'll compare to mine.
I'm also running a electric PAS, only problem unless you spend a lot of money you will not get one that adjusts to speed. I have mine on a switch, and only have it on when parking etc.
But it does tidy up the engine bay.
You looking at about a 2 day install though.
I'm suprised you need more torque than your getting.
as said we don't know your budget
You maybe better going for a programmable ignition, so its more tuneable than the dissy, also you could look at different cams, I'd speak to JE and he'll be able to get you a cam ground to your needs.
I have a SPA digital pressure and temp. sensor linked to a data logger so have very acurate Pressure logs, with rev's and temp.
What pressures you getting and I'll compare to mine.
I'm also running a electric PAS, only problem unless you spend a lot of money you will not get one that adjusts to speed. I have mine on a switch, and only have it on when parking etc.
But it does tidy up the engine bay.
You looking at about a 2 day install though.
I'm suprised you need more torque than your getting.
as said we don't know your budget
You maybe better going for a programmable ignition, so its more tuneable than the dissy, also you could look at different cams, I'd speak to JE and he'll be able to get you a cam ground to your needs.
Henry,
Your electronic gizmo is the MSD ignition unit. Not sure if yours incorporates a rev limiter?
I suffer the same low oil pressure.
I'll have my pressure relief valve replaced and going to try a different oil to see if that improves things.
I'm far from an expert but I believe the normal way to more torque is increasing engine capacity but going to longer stroke limits the reverbility.
It's worth researching the various exchange combo's offered by several of the RV8/TVR shops, alternatively have a fresh engine built but where do you stop?
Just my 2p.
Phil
420 SEAC
Your electronic gizmo is the MSD ignition unit. Not sure if yours incorporates a rev limiter?
I suffer the same low oil pressure.
I'll have my pressure relief valve replaced and going to try a different oil to see if that improves things.
I'm far from an expert but I believe the normal way to more torque is increasing engine capacity but going to longer stroke limits the reverbility.
It's worth researching the various exchange combo's offered by several of the RV8/TVR shops, alternatively have a fresh engine built but where do you stop?
Just my 2p.
Phil
420 SEAC
KelWedge said:
You could try phoning the nice chaps at RPI Engineering, they know more about RV8 than most.
I have no idea what a good touque figure is but mine is 290 ftlb and I am happy.
RPI are ok, but would say JE is more knowledgeable, but would deal with somone with a simular name. V8D are ok also.I have no idea what a good touque figure is but mine is 290 ftlb and I am happy.
I would rank them RPI, V8D, JE
There are other that are better but they specialise on one perticular area.
Henry Harris said:
develops 242bhp at the wheels.
that really is a very impressive figure for any RV8 TBH Henry. You might have to spend some money to improve on that. 
If you want more of a torquey feel the only thing that will make a noticeable difference to that would be to change to a different cam profile. My old 450i Wedge had a 'torque cam' & it really felt very impressive. Any gear, any revs, wallop...big shove in the back. My current 450 has all the power above 3500 rpm.....where it tears up to 6k rpm. High lift cam profile, completely different feel & delivery. Both have the old 'Flapper' injection system, so the only difference is the cam profile. Very different feel to both engines.
I'll agree with the above statement for your old car wynn! 
Don't forget that the earlier (non-serp) oil pumps were low pressure/high volume. I worried about mine when I got it but the light never came on and the engine noise always settled down nicely when warmed up (low revs until it does warm up though!)
Don't forget that the earlier (non-serp) oil pumps were low pressure/high volume. I worried about mine when I got it but the light never came on and the engine noise always settled down nicely when warmed up (low revs until it does warm up though!)
So simple but so effective. Just how I like em. BountyHunter said:
dbv8 said:
Nitrous is by far the cheapest way to supercar performance.
yeah for about 10 mins till the bottle runs out and at that point its back to square one till you have time/money/location to refill itBountyHunter said:
dbv8 said:
Nitrous is by far the cheapest way to supercar performance.
yeah for about 10 mins till the bottle runs out and at that point its back to square one till you have time/money/location to refill it
But for those special minutes....
My Chim can out accelerate just about any NA car on the road.
0-60 in 3.6
0-100 in 7.8
1/4 mile in 11.63 @ 122.6
You would struggle to match these figures with NA tuning.
It would cost many thousands for a high level supercharger or twin turbo set up.
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