HELP 420se Still Cuts out!!!
Discussion
Please anyone have any ideas on this one for me?
My 420se keeps cutting out when its warmed up. It will not idle and is very ropey between 1-2000 rpm, once you stop it cuts out?
I have changed, plugs, fuel pressure reg, new air flow meter even had the ECU sent of to be looked at (repaired with some dry joints).
What else could it be?
CHEERS
My 420se keeps cutting out when its warmed up. It will not idle and is very ropey between 1-2000 rpm, once you stop it cuts out?
I have changed, plugs, fuel pressure reg, new air flow meter even had the ECU sent of to be looked at (repaired with some dry joints).
What else could it be?
CHEERS
Is your system a flapper or a hot wire,
Check for air leaks, the timming wont cause it to cut out when hot
Have you checked the igniton module on the dizy this can cause a week spark when hot.
If its a hot wire have a look at the stepper motor if you have one.
How old are your igniton leads, are you getting any miss firing...
Just go through every thing one thing at a time and tick it off your list
Cambelt
Check for air leaks, the timming wont cause it to cut out when hot
Have you checked the igniton module on the dizy this can cause a week spark when hot.
If its a hot wire have a look at the stepper motor if you have one.
How old are your igniton leads, are you getting any miss firing...
Just go through every thing one thing at a time and tick it off your list
Cambelt
As Jack says, it may be the coolant temp sensor. There's a table with the relevant resistance values at various temps in the Bible I think if you can be bothered to test it, but fo the sake of a tenner, I'd change it anyway, especially if it's the original, which is now 20+ years old.
7.
7.
As mentioned before the coolant temperature sensor is worth a try. For testing purposes you can short the sensor out and getting in the engine is hot mode, but in this weather it should have no issues to be able to start.
Ignition amplifier and the coil would be the two other things I would look at. Before starting to think about the ECU. Resoldering it got me once going again like new.
Rob
Ignition amplifier and the coil would be the two other things I would look at. Before starting to think about the ECU. Resoldering it got me once going again like new.
Rob
Number 7 said:
As Jack says, it may be the coolant temp sensor. There's a table with the relevant resistance values at various temps in the Bible I think if you can be bothered to test it, but fo the sake of a tenner, I'd change it anyway, especially if it's the original, which is now 20+ years old.
7.
Yep: Pegasus Parts were the cheapest I could find the other week, but when the part arrived it had a very Chinese-made look about it. In the event I was barking up the wrong alley without a paddle, as it turned out to be a duff rotor arm.7.
May just be a matter of correctly setting the idle - assuming you have air, fuel and a spark try raising the throttle stop adjustment (butterfly clearance) just so you can keep it running and then adjust throttle bypass and AFM bypass to get a decent idle mixture, backing down the throttle stop and adjusting further till you have a steady 800 and mixture.
If none/some of the above can't be achieved then obviously an issue somewhere needing to be worked through one by one as previously mentioned.
With a new AFM I would also seriously consider fitting a wideband O2 sensor and gauge or getting it checked on a RR as flap spring setting may not be the same and you wouldn't want it running lean.
If none/some of the above can't be achieved then obviously an issue somewhere needing to be worked through one by one as previously mentioned.
With a new AFM I would also seriously consider fitting a wideband O2 sensor and gauge or getting it checked on a RR as flap spring setting may not be the same and you wouldn't want it running lean.
Edited by chunder on Tuesday 27th July 11:02
I have had this problem twice.
Once was Tesco 99 octane fuel. The other time was the temp sensor (the one next to the thermotime sensor). I took it to a TVr specialist, who could not find the problem. As a last resort I changed the temp sensor & it has been fine now for the past year.
Once was Tesco 99 octane fuel. The other time was the temp sensor (the one next to the thermotime sensor). I took it to a TVr specialist, who could not find the problem. As a last resort I changed the temp sensor & it has been fine now for the past year.
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