What batteries have you all got fitted?

[mikeb]

What sort of batteries have you all got fitted to you're wedges then. A type 072 ? Its a 12v 70 amps, 20 AH, 590 amp cranking job. This should do the trick?

MikeyB

Edited by mikeb on Saturday 24th July 17:23

[jmorgan]

Sounds similar to mine but with a few differences. First question would be is the SEAC battery space the same as the rest? Think mine is an 068 size?? 70ah and 540 discharge.

570 029 off the list in here under product finder.
http://www.bannerbatterien.com/banner/produkte/bat...

I did have a Boschshchshc Silver before that and it lasted 8 years including getting flattened a few times and taking a charge no problem. Pricey but good.

[Number 7]

072 from Halfords for me. Previous one from them lasted 6+ years, so I bought another.

7.

[combine]

mikeb said:

What sort of batteries have you all got fitted to you're wedges then. A type 072 ? Its a 12v 70 amps, 20 AH, 590 amp cranking job. This should do the trick?

MikeyB

Edited by mikeb on Saturday 24th July 17:23

Yes , 072 , tried a tractor battery but it wouldn't fit .Hope the run out in the seac was fun , presume the red beast will be ready by next year for run out at the fest ?

Edited by combine on Saturday 24th July 19:56

[mikeb]

Bought an 072 today fettled with a few wires, fitted the battery and the thing now won't start. It turns over nice but just does not catch. Fuel pump seems to be running and it has fresh petrol in it and it ran the other day until the oil dropping on the exhaust caused a smoke screen in the street!

Loads of extra wires around the coil all with lots of connectors everywhere. A lot of the other electrics also don't work, lights, hazards etc checked the fuses and onto the relays tomorrow.

Just wanted to double check the battery spec.

And indeed I shall be at BBWF next year in some shape.

MikeyB

[Wedg1e]

Think mine's an 089 Yuasa. I think this is the 4th battery in 10 years.

[Wedg1e]

mikeb said:

Bought an 072 today fettled with a few wires, fitted the battery and the thing now won't start. It turns over nice but just does not catch. Fuel pump seems to be running and it has fresh petrol in it and it ran the other day until the oil dropping on the exhaust caused a smoke screen in the street!


MikeyB

Mike: have a look for the dreaded bullet connector in a white/black wire leading from the distributor, to the left of the engine bay joining the airflow meter loom... this is the only thing that tells the ECU when to fire the injectors so if you accidentally unplug it or it's corroded, you get no fuel.
A quick way to test, assuming you still have the cold start injector, is to unplug the electrical connector from the CSI, then unbolt the CSI from the plenum. Disconnect any injector nearby and plug that lead into the CSI, then crank the engine. If the CSI sprays regular bursts of fuel then the injectors are probably being triggered OK.
The HT system has to be in good order: if the coil is not firing fat sparks down at your plugs then the injection won't work either.

[dickymint]

Mikey. Are you sure you haven't flooded the engine? Remember what i said about the pump keeping running if you don't switch off in time? Just in case, remove the fuel pump relay and keep cranking till She fires then pop the fuse back in.

Wedg1e - could you tell Mikey about the cure for this ( diode in the AFM) ?

[Wedg1e]

dickymint said:

Mikey. Are you sure you haven't flooded the engine? Remember what i said about the pump keeping running if you don't switch off in time? Just in case, remove the fuel pump relay and keep cranking till She fires then pop the fuse back in.

Wedg1e - could you tell Mikey about the cure for this ( diode in the AFM) ?

If it has the larger Jag airflow meter you can remove the cover and snip the diode out, that should stop it... but sometimes the relays stick anyway. It shouldn't flood anyway unless the injectors or cold start are leaking; the pump will just keep the fuel rail up to pressure.

Edit: Doh! Should have read 'leaking' not 'firing'...

Edited by Wedg1e on Monday 26th July 00:04

[mikeb]

Manged to get it started as dicky described. Guess it flooded. Had a tt of a time getting it to go though.

Gonna cut out all the connectors hanging around the coil and ignition amplifier (and behind the dash) and solder them and use heat shrink on them all. Then replace the coil, distributor cap and rotor arm for good measure.

Some of the relays ain't the best either. Cleaned all the contacts on them as well. Also I got a number of air leaks around the plenum which causes a rough idle. Gonna hose clip all the pipes.

When it does run though it does sound fantastic, it beats the crap out of the Grief in the sound department!

MikeyB

[njhucker]

Best way to ensure connections don't oxidise and cause problems is to use Contralube 770 when assembling