280i problems again
Discussion
1981 280i...Changed the plugs, Air filter, Leads, Got it running and it sounded like the power starv had gone.. Started it up sat and it sounds like it did before.. Some sort of power starvation, Lifted air plate when running and car stalled, Didnt try revs to see if plate lifts, Havent driven it yet.. Will have to remove and inspect plugs and will no doubt have to pressure test the cylinders to make sure its not a burnt valve.. There was a small hole in the air fuel cover and i plugged it.. I think that the air valve was in the boot of the car along with a water joiner.. I will take some pics cos i dont really know what they are.. The guy i bought it off said he lent on the housing and it broke.. He said its nothing to worry about.. My concearn now is TVR or Ford would not put bits on that it dont need.. Surely.. Will keep you posted.. Thanks for the input
Edited by mrzigazaga on Sunday 25th July 21:38
Iam hoping that some petrol additive might do something as there was gunky petrol in the old filter.. I dont suppose it would be that simple,Im not a very lucky person.. One day ill sit round the fire and tell you all the story of my life.. make a grown man cry.Ive also got me mate in me ear ole saying "you do know that old cars lose most of their BHP.. I bet its lost about 30-50", Is he talking s**t or what.. In the worst case senario what would it come to for having valves ground.. cos if its too much ill be getting in touch with car and classic as the ad seems to be talking about another car, Same colour, Maybe they jumbled up the ads for a laugh..Theres only one way outta here major..and i wouldnt wish that on a broke d**k dog.. Keep you posted.. Cheers
Edited by mrzigazaga on Monday 26th July 09:09
I've been folowing your problems.
Obviously I can only guess what is wrong with your car, but I have worked on a few Porches with CIS and am familiar with the system, I also have a 280.
When you jumped for joy after changing the plugs I was going to post, "I don't think that was the problem", but as it was running......
Dirt in the system aside it would appear your sensor plate could be sticking. it sits at the bottom of an "inverted funnel" if it is too low it will stick on one of the sides.
The adjustment is too bend the spring to lift it slightly with needle nose pliers.
0.2" clearance. (if in doubt make it more, for test purpose)
After you lift to prevent binding you will probably need to adjust the idle. which is under the butterfly, a needle screw in a bypass. Don't adjust idle with the butterfly stop.
With regard to performance and BHP, yep the 280i is not going to use many tyres
but with the suspension set up properly and running correctly it's a decent drive.
I'm interested it what part broke.
ETA don't be too fast to adjust the idle as the AAD has to close first.
Obviously I can only guess what is wrong with your car, but I have worked on a few Porches with CIS and am familiar with the system, I also have a 280.
When you jumped for joy after changing the plugs I was going to post, "I don't think that was the problem", but as it was running......
Dirt in the system aside it would appear your sensor plate could be sticking. it sits at the bottom of an "inverted funnel" if it is too low it will stick on one of the sides.
The adjustment is too bend the spring to lift it slightly with needle nose pliers.
0.2" clearance. (if in doubt make it more, for test purpose)
After you lift to prevent binding you will probably need to adjust the idle. which is under the butterfly, a needle screw in a bypass. Don't adjust idle with the butterfly stop.
With regard to performance and BHP, yep the 280i is not going to use many tyres
but with the suspension set up properly and running correctly it's a decent drive. I'm interested it what part broke.
ETA don't be too fast to adjust the idle as the AAD has to close first.
Edited by jeff m on Monday 26th July 15:34
I'm wondering if you might have a leaky injector. What did that bad plug look like? It is fairly easy to test the injectors. Just not a lot of fun. Get some pics up please of what was in the boot. You'd be suprised what is on there that you can remove and still have it run. In reality you could remove virtually everything except the 6 injectors, fuel lines, fuel pump and fuel meter and have the car run.
Cheers guys.. Found a website on bosch k fuel system and will try the sensior plate, It did look a bit carbed up and there was a gap of about 10mm showing between the plate and the bottom lip of funnel.. Engine was off. I think one of the parts in the boot is the auxillary air valve,Will take pics tom, Do have the guy that my friend recommended, I was just about to say to hell with it when he called me to arrange a day to look at it, This wed hopefully, Fingers,Eyes,Arms,Legs,and toes crossed, I do appreciate all the help from the forum, It has educated me and given me hope.. Taaaaaaa..
P.s Got the registration doc back.. 13.. yes..13 Owners.. Un-lucky for some.. im un-lucky anyway so it dont really matter.. ha ha
P.s Got the registration doc back.. 13.. yes..13 Owners.. Un-lucky for some.. im un-lucky anyway so it dont really matter.. ha ha
you always mention that you find certain parts in the boot.
have these parts been stripped from the car or have they beeing replaced and the old ones thrown in the boot?
before i would touch anything on the K-jetronic i would drain the old fuel, flush / clean the system, top-up with fresh fuel plus injection cleaner adhitive, than i would check the valve clearances (basically this should have been the first thing which you should have done, as lack of clearance does definately results in unstable idle, also lack of performance. clearances can get too tight because of neglecting service intervalls, as well as from unleaded use)
have these parts been stripped from the car or have they beeing replaced and the old ones thrown in the boot?
before i would touch anything on the K-jetronic i would drain the old fuel, flush / clean the system, top-up with fresh fuel plus injection cleaner adhitive, than i would check the valve clearances (basically this should have been the first thing which you should have done, as lack of clearance does definately results in unstable idle, also lack of performance. clearances can get too tight because of neglecting service intervalls, as well as from unleaded use)
Edited by Comadis on Tuesday 27th July 20:07
You're getting good advice here but sometimes without the tools and experience you're better off getting help to get the engine back to its baseline.
See if there is a shop in your area that the local Capri guys recommend or a ford specialist - since per Wiki the same engine was used in:
Ford Granada
Ford Sierra
Ford Scorpio
Reliant Scimitar (1979 onwards)
There is nothing "TVR-ish" about the engine - tape over the badges and get a good tune up. Grady
See if there is a shop in your area that the local Capri guys recommend or a ford specialist - since per Wiki the same engine was used in:
Ford Granada
Ford Sierra
Ford Scorpio
Reliant Scimitar (1979 onwards)
There is nothing "TVR-ish" about the engine - tape over the badges and get a good tune up. Grady
Thanks chaps.. As i say got a friend of a friend working on it tom and he has worked on TVR for over twenty years and he loves working on the 280i.. Hopefully.. he can sort it, I will mention all what i have been told, The parts i found in boot were orig bits, No replacements.. I know one is the aux air valve, The other had something to do with the cooling system, An elbow inside a plate of alli which goes on the front of engine n/s, Will let you all know how i get on.. Ta. spk soon
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