280i running mystery unfolding.
Discussion
Hi peeps, Went out for a good ole drive, The fuel is ok, Its a intermitent wiring fault, Went to the garage to put up on ramp to have a look underneath, Second in que at 8.30, Turned it off .. Big mistake, Spent the next 3.5 hrs trying to get it started again, The guy i bought it off said he can give me £200 quid back, He did knock off £295 at the start but that was cos it had no tax and rust in fuel.I had a look at the engine mounts, The pink one, Lower drivers side is ripped, The wishbone front n/s is so shagged the washers and bolt are rusty, Surely that would not of been like that 6 mnths ago when he mot it,, Checked water in rad.. All gone. That clanging noise i recall hearing on an old 520i bmw i had was the same noise just before the prop fell out.. Even though the price i paid is now £1500 with the 200 he offered back, I still am un happy that i bought it on the ad strength that it had a mot, was a driving summer project.. This is all starting to look like i need to spend a grand on it before i can drive it.. What do i do......
Edited by mrzigazaga on Tuesday 3rd August 21:47
Hello mate.. Is it an arm and leg job, I know the ball joints are pretty cheap and elmwood charge £52 plus vat an hr.I more concearned about ujs and prop.Is his offer a fair one,, I can drive it and the performance had picked up considerably and it does put a smile on me face even though it aches in my heart.. I should av a word with auto electric to see what they say....
its already 2 years ago...i paid for a nearly perfect unmolested original tasmin FHC (not a 2+2) 1500,-pound, incl. full service history from David Gerald, first paint in very, very good condition, and a perfect chassis without any underseal or waxoyl,incl. a new stainless steel exhaust, plus a celebrity former owner Stuart Hall from "its a knockout".
the car was advertized for weeks here at PH.
the car was advertized for weeks here at PH.
Can you list the problems with the car - starting with the most severe. The good thing about TVRs is that they are extremely DIYable, if fiddly and time-consuming.
We'll have you up and running! For instance, if the prop is in a bad way, people like Bailey Morris can make almost ANY prop brand new if necessary, UJs aren't a disaster.
Once you've cleared the car of faults, it'll be a joy to own.
We'll have you up and running! For instance, if the prop is in a bad way, people like Bailey Morris can make almost ANY prop brand new if necessary, UJs aren't a disaster.
Once you've cleared the car of faults, it'll be a joy to own.
Comadis said:
its already 2 years ago...i paid for a nearly perfect unmolested original tasmin FHC (not a 2+2) 1500,-pound, incl. full service history from David Gerald, first paint in very, very good condition, and a perfect chassis without any underseal or waxoyl,incl. a new stainless steel exhaust, plus a celebrity former owner Stuart Hall from "its a knockout".
the car was advertized for weeks here at PH.
Don't listen to Doom & Gloom here, his wife has had the decorators in for the last 5 years or so. The drive shaft joints can be done decently, all the other bits on the 2.8 are Ford as you know so easily replaceable. Stick with it Zigaaa. the car was advertized for weeks here at PH.
Don't get rid, what else are you going to bore folks to death with if not the stories of how you fixed it or when it is fix, what it sounds like.
Truss me its worth the effort what ever you paid, treat it as the rolling project, don't try to do all the fixes in one go.
Do a bit, enjoy the drive, do a bit more.
Sometime ago I had a problem like yours, changed the coil for one that I knew worked, replaced the fuse 20AMP as it did not blow only melted with a new one and put a new earth cable from the coil to the distributor, no more problem.
Truss me its worth the effort what ever you paid, treat it as the rolling project, don't try to do all the fixes in one go.
Do a bit, enjoy the drive, do a bit more.
Sometime ago I had a problem like yours, changed the coil for one that I knew worked, replaced the fuse 20AMP as it did not blow only melted with a new one and put a new earth cable from the coil to the distributor, no more problem.
Hi folks, I must be honest the vibes when driving are amazing,Most peoples reactions are cool, Even neighbours that used to ignore me are talking to me, The biggest problem for me is that i dont have a garage so the car will be sat outside my flat while i work on it.. I have limited tools and not alot of dough.. Im trying to sell me harley so the proceeds can be spent on the TVR, I know its not a practical way but i would consider paying someone to do the work, Elmwood tvr seemed to be cheaper per hr than my local mechanic and they'll fit parts i supply with no extra charge, I do need to rely on a vehicle cos i still suffer from a condition called agoraphobia after an horrific fatal car accident 20yrs ago, I used to be such an out going person but feels like ive been in prison ever since. The harley was a remedy to get me out in the sun... The TVR will have the same effect, I need to start living again, Unfortuneately i become very dispondant easily and do get in a bit of a rage. Thanks for all the positive advice... I might just keep her.. The two timming wh**e.
Was trying to establish what condition the chassis is in before it conked out for 3 hours at the garage.. But looking down through engine bay i could see lower left engine mount with a rip in it, The lower wishbone bush on n/s is completely shot probably the same on other side, Exhausts bounce about, dont know if it engine mount doing it or rubbers are gone, When i was driving it there is a slight noise like the rear wheel has brakes stuck on and becomes a bit more noticeable when me mate got in. Theres a clunk when you go from reverse to 1st and then as you pull away it sounds like dragging metal following the speed of the car. The ride is very hard and every little bump can be felt
also sounds like an old pram when you go over speed ramps, Reminds me of an old metro i had.
also sounds like an old pram when you go over speed ramps, Reminds me of an old metro i had.
One job at a time, you'll soon have a good car.
Sounds like your UJs need checking, check the right side first as that will probably be the worst one. The drive shafts act as the upper wishbone on trailing arm susp so fooked UJs make for some unpleasant and scary noises.
If you put the drive shafts in a shop which you might need to if the yokes are shot make sure they know length is critical. (will change camber) There are shims but if they just chop off the old yoke....etc etc
I hate to teach people to suck eggs but sometimes just putting in new UJs isn't good enough if the cap turns in the yoke. There are a few ways to bodge it like scoring the inner surface of the yoke, but not a good idea when it's a suspension part too
Sorry if you knew this.
Prop shaft one too. you will have to slide it back and forth a bit but it's easy to get out.
Working on the rear suspension can be easy if you have an impact gun, if you use spanners it can take all day to extract one drive shaft and your knuckles will bleed profusely.
You will need a 1.5" socket for the outer drive shaft nut, so borrow one before you start. Both sides are right hand threads BTW.
Have fun.
While the drive shafts are in the shop you can check the rear calipers, you have my sympathy there, that's a pig of a job. Doable, just very unpleasant. Can talk you through it if needed. But once you are under there you can see what needs to be done.
Sounds like your UJs need checking, check the right side first as that will probably be the worst one. The drive shafts act as the upper wishbone on trailing arm susp so fooked UJs make for some unpleasant and scary noises.
If you put the drive shafts in a shop which you might need to if the yokes are shot make sure they know length is critical. (will change camber) There are shims but if they just chop off the old yoke....etc etc
I hate to teach people to suck eggs but sometimes just putting in new UJs isn't good enough if the cap turns in the yoke. There are a few ways to bodge it like scoring the inner surface of the yoke, but not a good idea when it's a suspension part too
Sorry if you knew this.
Prop shaft one too. you will have to slide it back and forth a bit but it's easy to get out.
Working on the rear suspension can be easy if you have an impact gun, if you use spanners it can take all day to extract one drive shaft and your knuckles will bleed profusely.
You will need a 1.5" socket for the outer drive shaft nut, so borrow one before you start. Both sides are right hand threads BTW.
Have fun.
While the drive shafts are in the shop you can check the rear calipers, you have my sympathy there, that's a pig of a job. Doable, just very unpleasant. Can talk you through it if needed. But once you are under there you can see what needs to be done.
cheers jeff.. Sounds easy, The only trouble is i got no tools or garage, I might of sold me harley on friday so hopefully i should have some dough to spend on it, I know its a cowards way out but i would be inclined to put it into a TVR specialist, So far research has been promising, I would buy all the bits (thanks to everyone who has inputed on this subject) from recomended sites and the TVR garage only charge the hourly rate of £52.+vat, I was considering looking into electronic ignition, Would this bypass the need to have all the wiring checked, Can anyone recommend a system or site,, Many thanks.. Mark
Edited by mrzigazaga on Wednesday 4th August 21:00
pwd95 said:
2 options.
1. Play holy f
k & get your money back.
2. Take it all apart & get it running great for next summer.
id say only one of those options is valid - which is no 2.1. Play holy f
k & get your money back.2. Take it all apart & get it running great for next summer.
your option no 1 is tbh a no go unless you bought from a dealer.
you could whinge all you liked but not many sellers would take any notice (i know i wouldnt)
caveat emptor and all that.
an alternative is sell it on as it is (preferably mentioning the faults in the advert)
Cheers bounty hunter.. I might keep it if i can find out exactly what it needs, The guy did offer me £200 back and i should of took it,, I went a bit off me trolley but apologised to him and he is re-considering it..It would mean that i only paid £1500 for it and i suppose its a little over priced for its cond but i will be happier once i know the damage.. Off to bed now, Spk soon.. Ta
mrzigazaga said:
Cheers bounty hunter.. I might keep it if i can find out exactly what it needs, The guy did offer me £200 back and i should of took it,, I went a bit off me trolley but apologised to him and he is re-considering it..It would mean that i only paid £1500 for it and i suppose its a little over priced for its cond but i will be happier once i know the damage.. Off to bed now, Spk soon.. Ta
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