Head Gasket (How long)
Discussion
I know a few of you have done this lately, how long approx did it take, as only got 4 eve's of 3 hours so about 12 hours, wondering if this is enough time. I have the bonnet off, and all the right tools, and have done it before, but mainly as part of a complete engine re-build. But also I do seem to take longer than most due to being a pedantic and also spending time cleaning everything as I go.
rev-erend said:
If the head gasket is leaking so soon .. then it's possible that a head may be warped and need skimming ..
So maybe it's better to leave it and do the job properly once.
This is still on the temp engine. the heads have never been off. I think they may have been a little suspect when I 1st put it in, and think it's just got worse.So maybe it's better to leave it and do the job properly once.
I do have a few other sets of heads I can use if they are warped. but ideally want to use these for my other engine's I'm building.
saying that I do have another set of standard 3.9 heads.
Just done mine took lot more than 12hrs but like you i cleaned things. If some parts dont fit right first time then you panic and thats when mistakes are made then you have to start rebuilding that part again. PS- i got heads skimmed anyway[2days]. Because you have done it before you know you'll need all the parts to hand.
Good luck.
Good luck.
It should be possible - I did the cam too in about 14 hours.
Apart from stripped threads the other enemy is cracking the head bolts open. Try going round the whole lot first just to crack them slightly, as it will add strain to the last ones. I found a 12-point socket that fitted the bolt heads exactly helped to impart more torque reliably. I had to use a 3-foot breaker bar on some of them, and the last one went suddenly, and it hit the windscreen surround!
You going for composite gaskets? Don't forget to get some red loctite for the re-assembly.
Apart from stripped threads the other enemy is cracking the head bolts open. Try going round the whole lot first just to crack them slightly, as it will add strain to the last ones. I found a 12-point socket that fitted the bolt heads exactly helped to impart more torque reliably. I had to use a 3-foot breaker bar on some of them, and the last one went suddenly, and it hit the windscreen surround!
You going for composite gaskets? Don't forget to get some red loctite for the re-assembly.
adam quantrill said:
It should be possible - I did the cam too in about 14 hours.
Apart from stripped threads the other enemy is cracking the head bolts open. Try going round the whole lot first just to crack them slightly, as it will add strain to the last ones. I found a 12-point socket that fitted the bolt heads exactly helped to impart more torque reliably. I had to use a 3-foot breaker bar on some of them, and the last one went suddenly, and it hit the windscreen surround!
You going for composite gaskets? Don't forget to get some red loctite for the re-assembly.
It's currently got composite gasket, and going to keep the same. I only use Elring ones also.Apart from stripped threads the other enemy is cracking the head bolts open. Try going round the whole lot first just to crack them slightly, as it will add strain to the last ones. I found a 12-point socket that fitted the bolt heads exactly helped to impart more torque reliably. I had to use a 3-foot breaker bar on some of them, and the last one went suddenly, and it hit the windscreen surround!
You going for composite gaskets? Don't forget to get some red loctite for the re-assembly.
Going to try and swap the bolts for not stretch if I can if not will fit studs.
What do you use the loctite for trying to think what needs loctite on the top end.
also I normally only use the blue 243 loctite.
Also it took me about 16 hours to do my camshaft on it's own, but, I had to remove the sump and engine mounts, do to it being a thor front cover, and my custom design. heads though will be easier. hopefully I'll be able to remove them complete with manifolds.
Well spent my 1st 3 hours, spent about a hours swapping the engine drain plug for a tap, to make it easier to drain the fluids.
But got the plenum and rockers off, and other ancillaries
And cracked one nut, I forgot how hard they can get on a old engine. so decided to call it a day, and start on them afresh tomorrow.
Things seem to be going to plan though. apart from not being able to find my 1/2 drive 5/8 socket, so using a 16mm.
But got the plenum and rockers off, and other ancillaries
And cracked one nut, I forgot how hard they can get on a old engine. so decided to call it a day, and start on them afresh tomorrow.
Things seem to be going to plan though. apart from not being able to find my 1/2 drive 5/8 socket, so using a 16mm.
ed_crouch said:
Careful with studs - normally the heads wont thread over the studs without hitting the inner wings - FAIL!!
If this is the case with your racer, you'll have to lift the engine to get the heads on. And of course, off again...!
Careful!
I've ordered some not stretch bolts, so as long as they come in time I'll be using them, as this is still my temp engine.If this is the case with your racer, you'll have to lift the engine to get the heads on. And of course, off again...!
Careful!
It's quite easy on the racer to lift the engine a little though if needed.
but what I may do on the racer once I fit the 4.6 with studs is remove some of the inner wing for so I can get the heads off without lifting.
rev-erend said:
Ed is correct anout the studs. I have them and in the wedge engine bay - you have to swing the engine about with the engine mounts removed to get clearance to add/remove the heads.
I just preassembled the engine before putting it in whole this time.
Much easier
Good luck with it ..
Thank You,I just preassembled the engine before putting it in whole this time.
Much easier
Good luck with it ..
Feeling a bit knackered today
Yes last Engine in there with studs was pre assembled.
Well All good new, but in a way that bad.
Also I did have to take the manifolds off, so had to remove the engine mounts and wiggle the engine about.
Some of the nuts was b
d tight, but they all came out fine, and all threads seem ok.
All valves are brown/grey. and there does not seem to been any leaks. or steam cleaning
Gaskets did come off very easy and was not stuck at all.
So only bad news look like they did not need doing, and I'm running hot and loosing a little bit of water, but now don't know where from.
I did a pressure test, and it kept 10PSI for 24 hours.
Just have to put it all back together and try some water wetter, and a 74oC stat.
Had to do a urgent order of manifold gaskets, as one thing I've not got spares of.
Also I did have to take the manifolds off, so had to remove the engine mounts and wiggle the engine about.
Some of the nuts was b
d tight, but they all came out fine, and all threads seem ok.All valves are brown/grey. and there does not seem to been any leaks. or steam cleaning
Gaskets did come off very easy and was not stuck at all.
So only bad news look like they did not need doing, and I'm running hot and loosing a little bit of water, but now don't know where from.
I did a pressure test, and it kept 10PSI for 24 hours.
Just have to put it all back together and try some water wetter, and a 74oC stat.
Had to do a urgent order of manifold gaskets, as one thing I've not got spares of.
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