just not logical !!! Mattmans wedge
Discussion
I have had mattmans wedge in my garage for the past week trying to find why it runs like crap.
We have now replaced EVERYTHING. It has passed every electrical test I can find : here : http://www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk/maint_fuel_injectio...
We have renewed everything apart from the wiper blades, yet still no joy. Cant believe its mechanical but will try compression test of each cly tomorrow. then will strip out each piston if needed, yet I am sure its electrical as the problem came and went a few times before being constant.
ANY ideas?
Replaced: Plugs, leads, disy, ecu, rotor arm (all new lucus) all 8 injectors, flapper, relays (found a duff diode in the red steering module replaced - no change) changed resistor pack, Checked TDC on 1st cly all perfect timing.
Runs like its on 5-6 clys only, ALL 8 plugs have spark, all 8 get wet, took off rocker covers, all valves opening, take off oil filer when running- zero pressure, head gasket fine, ????????????
We need to tow it somewhere and dump it....and see if anyone has any clue. Its got to be simple but what's left electrical I haven't found? any ideas? As i said it passed every test in the TVRwedge pages, so is there something missing from the PDF?
errr..........
We have now replaced EVERYTHING. It has passed every electrical test I can find : here : http://www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk/maint_fuel_injectio...
We have renewed everything apart from the wiper blades, yet still no joy. Cant believe its mechanical but will try compression test of each cly tomorrow. then will strip out each piston if needed, yet I am sure its electrical as the problem came and went a few times before being constant.
ANY ideas?
Replaced: Plugs, leads, disy, ecu, rotor arm (all new lucus) all 8 injectors, flapper, relays (found a duff diode in the red steering module replaced - no change) changed resistor pack, Checked TDC on 1st cly all perfect timing.
Runs like its on 5-6 clys only, ALL 8 plugs have spark, all 8 get wet, took off rocker covers, all valves opening, take off oil filer when running- zero pressure, head gasket fine, ????????????
We need to tow it somewhere and dump it....and see if anyone has any clue. Its got to be simple but what's left electrical I haven't found? any ideas? As i said it passed every test in the TVRwedge pages, so is there something missing from the PDF?
errr..........
Stick a CO meter on the exhaust - what is the CO reading like? You can buy them for 30-40 quid possibly, though I just looked on ebay and there aren't any on there.
This will tell you if it's overfuelling or not.
Another reason for rough running is dicky cam lobes, have you checked (while turning over with the rocker covers off) that the rocker lift is good on all the valves?
This will tell you if it's overfuelling or not.
Another reason for rough running is dicky cam lobes, have you checked (while turning over with the rocker covers off) that the rocker lift is good on all the valves?
Shizzer.. sounds like my 280 has spread a non running diesease through the forum into the computer and out into the garages.. sorry..
..
Im still trying to sort mine out.. Checking the AAD tom..I hope you figure it out quicker than im trying to,Its taken 5 weeks so far.. Granted im not the most knowledged at mechanics but im not that goofy either..Theres too many problems that are closly related to each other and thats whats confusing.... Good luck.
.. Im still trying to sort mine out.. Checking the AAD tom..I hope you figure it out quicker than im trying to,Its taken 5 weeks so far.. Granted im not the most knowledged at mechanics but im not that goofy either..Theres too many problems that are closly related to each other and thats whats confusing.... Good luck.
s
thotfast said:
thotfast said: update : What are the best spark plugs? Found a couple were running clean, all others wet and black. Tried closing the gaps and runs better.(way less gap than should be) Perhaps a hotter plug is needed? What is a good hot plug would anyone suggest?
Try running it in the absolute, pitch-black dark (with bonnet open). Give your eyes 5 mins to ajust. You may see some voltage leaking to earth between the high tension cables and the engine?I think they have changed the Temp Sensor but with Intermotor ones being supplied by everyone, you might have a duff one in as the replacement.
The plugs show too rich. Temp Sensor is a usual culprit for this, so just take the plug off it and short it our in the plug with a piece of wire. If it all runs OK then that's your answer. It might be slightly too lean when cold but not for long at this time of year.
The plugs show too rich. Temp Sensor is a usual culprit for this, so just take the plug off it and short it our in the plug with a piece of wire. If it all runs OK then that's your answer. It might be slightly too lean when cold but not for long at this time of year.
adam quantrill said:
I think they have changed the Temp Sensor but with Intermotor ones being supplied by everyone, you might have a duff one in as the replacement.
The plugs show too rich. Temp Sensor is a usual culprit for this, so just take the plug off it and short it our in the plug with a piece of wire. If it all runs OK then that's your answer. It might be slightly too lean when cold but not for long at this time of year.
Ed Zackery.The plugs show too rich. Temp Sensor is a usual culprit for this, so just take the plug off it and short it our in the plug with a piece of wire. If it all runs OK then that's your answer. It might be slightly too lean when cold but not for long at this time of year.
Just a thought - it's worth checking all the connections on rear of the relay board. With the car running give each cable a bloody good tug/wiggle.
Check that none of the relays have wiggled loose from the board.. If you have a flutter on cold idle when you rev and worstens when hot then thats exactly what im going through at mo..Got someone coming to look early next week who knows fords and if he can find it.. bing bang walla walla.. hopefully it will help you.. in the mean time if you find it it would be a relief to me.. still might not be the same problem though?????.. Checking me AAD as we speak..
Emailled Matt this morning to suggest that you swap injector plugs between adjacent cyls. 2 works, 4 doesn't. Swap injector plugs between 2 and 4. If 4 starts firing and 2 then stops, you have a wiring/electrical fault in the injection. I also have a spare set of leads.
Note this only works on bankfire!!!!!! Won't work for sequential systems!
Note this only works on bankfire!!!!!! Won't work for sequential systems!
Replaced everything? The total scatter-gun approach! I like it. 
Tested everything? Are you sure? The 100% best way to test each component is to include the wiring all the way back to the ECU multiplug as per this example for the CTS:
Testing the CTS
Conditions as follows: Engine HOT, ECU multiplug disconnected as in A: Ignition OFF: Measure coolant temperature with thermal probe: Connect an ohmmeter as shown in B below and take a single reading. Compare it to the resistance/temperature profile below. Allow the engine to cool and take further readings. If the measurements match the profile within (say) 10-15%, the CTS and its connections are OK.
TEMP.......OHMS........TEMP........OHMS
-10°C....9100-9300....60°C.......500-700
0°C.......5700-5900....80°C.......300-400
20°C......2400-2600....100°C......150-200
40°C......1100-1300
If the readings are clearly wrong, remove the sensor for a controlled test using a pan of water and thermometer.
As you can see the connections are fully tested by that process, because 80% of all RV8 Efi problems are due to Efi and Ignition electrical connection problems and/or plenum air leaks.
Here are some other things you have not mentioned.
O set up a an accurate rev counter on the engine.
O some multimeters and strobe timing systems can be used for accurate rpm measurement.
O get the engine warm and set the idle speed to something easy to measure (say 800 rpm).
O using suitably insulated grips/pliers, remove one spark plug lead at a time from the distributor (or spark plug), and observe the drop in idle speed for each cylinder.
O note down the results for No's 1 thro 8.
O removing the plug lead from a normally functioning cylinder would cause a drop in rpm of approximately 250 rpm (to about 550 rpm).
O removing the plug lead from a cylinder with a badly worn cam would cause a drop in rpm of approximately 100 rpm (to about 700 rpm).
O intermediate results might indicate partial wear on the camshaft or possibly a spark plug/lead malfunction.
O (such possible plug/lead causes can be eliminated by substitution)
O detection of approximately 250 rpm drop in idle speed not due to spark plug/lead issues now warrants a visual inspection of the cam function.
O removal of a rocker cover will confirm any faulty valve lifting issues (on Efi models, this is only possible on the R/H bank without removing the plenum).
O further symptoms of probable cam wear are as follows:
. o idling seems to be OK but raising the engine speed to 2000 rpm induces significant jerking/vibration as if a plug lead is removed, which then partly diminishes at higher rpm.
. o general loss of all round performance - not easy to detect subjectively over long periods of time.
. o the spark plug on a cam-affected cylinder will be fouled with oil/carbon deposits.
Prepared/Designed for a 3.5 RV8.
ON THE OTHER HAND - Could it be the ignition? Check out this fully comprehensive test process.
TESTNG IGNITION COMPONENTS - BACK TO BASICS
The circuit represents BOTH the system where the amplifier is mounted in an aluminium housing behind the coil AND where it is mounted on the side of the distributor. The effective electrics are the same, just the physical locations of components differ.
Be sure the earths and the wiring from the ignition switch through to the coil, distibutor and amplifier module are pretty much the same as shown.
Getting Started
o Reasons for testing the ignition system are a proven loss of sparks at the spark plugs, or weak/intermittent sparks causing misfiring.
o To proceed, separate the Low and High Tension circuits to find out immediately which circuit is faulty, then persue the fault condition in either circuit according to the results of some logical tests.
o Remove the king lead from the distributor, connect it to a good spark plug and lay the plug on the engine somewhere.
o Switch on the ignition and crank the engine.
o Is there a fat spark at the spark plug.
o If Yes - then the problems are downstream and away from the king lead at the dizzy cap, rotor arm, plug leads, plugs, or ignition timing so that is where to look - see " Other Components" (later) for checking the usual suspects, inspect, clean, substitute and only replace if faulty.
o If No - change the king lead.
o If still No - then the problems are upstream from the king lead and towards the coil, amplifier, distributor innards or their local connections all the way back to the ignition switch.
Testing the Low Tension Side Voltage Feed
o Switch on the ignition and use a multimeter to verify there are 12 volts at coil positive.
o If No - find out why, by checking the circuit between coil positive and the ignition switch and beyond, all the way back to the battery if necessary, for corroded or loose/broken connections.
o If Yes - dont take it for granted, waggle local wiring and toggle the ignition switch a few time to ensure the voltage is reliable, even using a bright lamp to check the wiring can supply a load.
Test the coil independently
o Disconnect the wire from coil negative to the amplifier.
o Turn ignition on, and strike coil negative to earth with a flying lead to see how good is the king lead spark.
o If sparks are absent/poor/weak and +12 volts is still present at coil positive then the coil is prime suspect for inspection/replacement.
o If sparks are fat/healthy then coil must be OK, so look for amplifier/pickup coil problems.
Test the Amplifier and Distributor Pickup Coil Together.
o Remove Distributor Cap.
o Disconnect ECU trigger wire from the 6.8k ohm resistor to prevent spurious signals getting to the ECU.
o Disconnect amplifier wire from coil negative.
o Connect a 12v 21W bulb from the same amplifier wire to coil positive (12 volt supply).
o The 21W bulb acts as a substitute coil load.
o Turn ignition on and rotate distributor rotor arm back and forward against the vacuum/mechanical advance springs.
o As the toothed reluctor wheel triggers the pickup coil, the amplifier should flash the bulb.
o If bulb flashing is positive and consistent the amplifier and pickup coil are working correctly together.
o If lamp does not flash or is inconsistent/weak either the amplifier or pickup coil is faulty.
Check the pickup coil independently
o Remove the amplifier connections to the pick-up coil and measure the resistance of the distributor pickup coil for a steady value between 500 ohms to 1500 ohms on the ohm-meter. Flex the wires at the same time to test their integrity.
o Outside the above range, short or open circuit indicates a croaky pickup coil.
o By process of elimination, if the pickup coil is OK, one might conclude the amplifier is faulty but nothing is ever that simple with electronic components, so to be sure:
Test the Amplifier independently
o What follows is an elegant but slightly complex test process.
o Use a 1.5 volt pen-cell battery connected in series with a (say} 2,700 ohm resistor and two flying leads to simulate the pickup coil.
o With the coil and amplifier connected normally and the distributor pickup coil disconnected from the amplifier, connect one flying lead to one of the amplifier input connectors and touch the other flying lead intermittantly across the second amplifier input connector.
o This emulates a pulsed input thereby activating the amplifier in sympathy to generate sparks from the coil?
o Polarity of this simulation is non-critical as neither flying lead is connected to earth, only to the amplifier input connectors, and the pulsing voltage from the pen-cell via the 2700 ohm resistor acts similar to the pickup coil input without causing stress or damage to the amplifier.
o The above test can be performed with the 21 watt bulb as the coil substitute as previously described, except in that circumstance, the pick-up coil simulation will flash the bulb.
Alternatively (for even more elegance), going one step further:
o Construct a small test box complete with switch, 21 watt bulb/holder, pen-cell battery, 2700 ohm resistor, 12 volt pos/neg power connections (from a car battery), spade connectors to the amplifier, etc.
o Connect up the 12 volts power and the amplifier to the test box and flick the switch repeatedly to emulate the pulsed input from a pickup coil and see the 21 watt bulb flash in sympathy to show the amplifier is working correctly.
Other Components
o Another possible component failure will be the suppressing condenser breaking down under the back-EMF from the coil.
o Remove condenser from circuit to see if the problem disappears.
o If yes, replace the condenser.
o Almost finally! For all the previous components check the LT wiring is not corroded, broken, dodgy or otherwise failing.
o Because all the components upstream of the king lead now check out OK, if fat sparks emerge from the king lead but not at the spark plugs its time to review the downstream components to see if they are dragging down, or failing to conduct, the Hi-Tension energy.
o Rotor arm - inspect for carbon tracking, clean with WD40, smear with a trace of silicon grease to prevent moisture ingress.
o Distibutor cap - inside and outside - inspect for carbon tracking, clean with WD40, smear with a trace of silicon grease to prevent moisture ingress. Wipe completely clean and shiny, especially between the turrets.
o Plug Leads and Hi-tension connectors - inspect for breaks and contact damage, clean with WD40, smear with a trace of silicon grease to prevent moisture ingress. Wipe completely clean and shiny.
o Spark Plugs - Check for recommended type, clean and gap to correct spec, inspect for insulator damage externally and whiskering/crud between central contact and body. Clean externally to a shine.
o The above four items are "zero cost" actions. Many owners replace them all never knowing which of the components may have been faulty.
o Check by swapping is an easy process before buying replacements.
o Looking for spark tracking on a dark night generally reveals faulty hi-tension parts.
Work in Process, Errors and omissions - please advise.
If and/when the voracity of the ignition system is established and the problem still exists, time to move on to a full and systematic check of all the Efi components.
Being unfamiliar with the Efi system on your car, means one can only point to such component descriptions/tests that exist in this archive that could be common to your system, and suggest a cherry picking test session accordingly.
If after all the above, the intermittent failure persists, then a dynamic check of the ignition system is called for.
Guaranteed Foolproof Intermittent Ignition Fault Finder.
Rig up two 4/5 watt 12 volt bulbs (or better still, 2V, 15mA LED's + 680 ohm resistors) on test leads into the cabin and connect one between coil +ve and earth and the other to coil -ve and earth. Mark the bulbs POS and NEG. Beware cables dont foul hot/moving parts.
Start the engine and observe:
POS sensing the ignition input voltage is permanently on,
AND
NEG sensing the pulsed voltage across the Ignition Amplifier flickers in sympathy with engine rpm, or is dimly lit (LED's flicker better).
Now drive the car and have a helper note what happens when the engine misbehaves.
If POS and NEG go out together there is an open circuit interruption of the 12 v feed such as a faulty wire/ignition switch,
OR
A short on the same circuit due to burned insulation.
If NEG comes full on the Ignition Amplifier (due to excess internal heat) or its associated wiring/earth has failed in open circuit mode,
OR
The pulsed input (ie Hall Effect or Reluctor) to the amplifier from the dizzy has failed or the associated wiring is faulty/shorting to earth,
OR
The Coil has failed in a short circuit mode (unlikely cos it would surely kill the amplifier methinks?)
If NEG goes out the Ignition Amplifier has temporarily failed in short circuit mode due to excess internal heat,
OR
the local wiring is shorting to earth,
OR
The coil has failed in open circuit mode due to insulation breakdown or internal heat
If POS stays lit and NEG show signs of flickering instabilitynot sympathetic with engine rpm, then the Ignition Amplifier or its connections are on the blink.
Failing all of the above, what are you left with?
O Crudded fuel tank
O Blocked fuel filters
O Injectors need cleaning, filters changing, new pintle caps, etc Check this Clicky for a unique home brew process.
Alternatively - Prayer!
Tested everything? Are you sure? The 100% best way to test each component is to include the wiring all the way back to the ECU multiplug as per this example for the CTS:
Testing the CTS
Conditions as follows: Engine HOT, ECU multiplug disconnected as in A: Ignition OFF: Measure coolant temperature with thermal probe: Connect an ohmmeter as shown in B below and take a single reading. Compare it to the resistance/temperature profile below. Allow the engine to cool and take further readings. If the measurements match the profile within (say) 10-15%, the CTS and its connections are OK.
TEMP.......OHMS........TEMP........OHMS
-10°C....9100-9300....60°C.......500-700
0°C.......5700-5900....80°C.......300-400
20°C......2400-2600....100°C......150-200
40°C......1100-1300
If the readings are clearly wrong, remove the sensor for a controlled test using a pan of water and thermometer.
As you can see the connections are fully tested by that process, because 80% of all RV8 Efi problems are due to Efi and Ignition electrical connection problems and/or plenum air leaks.
Here are some other things you have not mentioned.
- Blocked breather.
- Plenum Air leaks - Find a full dynamic test process clicky here
- Intermittent electrical connections in Efi loom. Look for connector corrosion and wire breaks by wriggling when running. Ignition system too.
- Corroded/loose earth connectors at the rear of the block, behind and below the LH rocker cover.
- Someone suggested CAM - without dismantling anything, here is:
O set up a an accurate rev counter on the engine.
O some multimeters and strobe timing systems can be used for accurate rpm measurement.
O get the engine warm and set the idle speed to something easy to measure (say 800 rpm).
O using suitably insulated grips/pliers, remove one spark plug lead at a time from the distributor (or spark plug), and observe the drop in idle speed for each cylinder.
O note down the results for No's 1 thro 8.
O removing the plug lead from a normally functioning cylinder would cause a drop in rpm of approximately 250 rpm (to about 550 rpm).
O removing the plug lead from a cylinder with a badly worn cam would cause a drop in rpm of approximately 100 rpm (to about 700 rpm).
O intermediate results might indicate partial wear on the camshaft or possibly a spark plug/lead malfunction.
O (such possible plug/lead causes can be eliminated by substitution)
O detection of approximately 250 rpm drop in idle speed not due to spark plug/lead issues now warrants a visual inspection of the cam function.
O removal of a rocker cover will confirm any faulty valve lifting issues (on Efi models, this is only possible on the R/H bank without removing the plenum).
O further symptoms of probable cam wear are as follows:
. o idling seems to be OK but raising the engine speed to 2000 rpm induces significant jerking/vibration as if a plug lead is removed, which then partly diminishes at higher rpm.
. o general loss of all round performance - not easy to detect subjectively over long periods of time.
. o the spark plug on a cam-affected cylinder will be fouled with oil/carbon deposits.
Prepared/Designed for a 3.5 RV8.
ON THE OTHER HAND - Could it be the ignition? Check out this fully comprehensive test process.
TESTNG IGNITION COMPONENTS - BACK TO BASICS
The circuit represents BOTH the system where the amplifier is mounted in an aluminium housing behind the coil AND where it is mounted on the side of the distributor. The effective electrics are the same, just the physical locations of components differ.
Be sure the earths and the wiring from the ignition switch through to the coil, distibutor and amplifier module are pretty much the same as shown.
Getting Started
o Reasons for testing the ignition system are a proven loss of sparks at the spark plugs, or weak/intermittent sparks causing misfiring.
o To proceed, separate the Low and High Tension circuits to find out immediately which circuit is faulty, then persue the fault condition in either circuit according to the results of some logical tests.
o Remove the king lead from the distributor, connect it to a good spark plug and lay the plug on the engine somewhere.
o Switch on the ignition and crank the engine.
o Is there a fat spark at the spark plug.
o If Yes - then the problems are downstream and away from the king lead at the dizzy cap, rotor arm, plug leads, plugs, or ignition timing so that is where to look - see " Other Components" (later) for checking the usual suspects, inspect, clean, substitute and only replace if faulty.
o If No - change the king lead.
o If still No - then the problems are upstream from the king lead and towards the coil, amplifier, distributor innards or their local connections all the way back to the ignition switch.
Testing the Low Tension Side Voltage Feed
o Switch on the ignition and use a multimeter to verify there are 12 volts at coil positive.
o If No - find out why, by checking the circuit between coil positive and the ignition switch and beyond, all the way back to the battery if necessary, for corroded or loose/broken connections.
o If Yes - dont take it for granted, waggle local wiring and toggle the ignition switch a few time to ensure the voltage is reliable, even using a bright lamp to check the wiring can supply a load.
Test the coil independently
o Disconnect the wire from coil negative to the amplifier.
o Turn ignition on, and strike coil negative to earth with a flying lead to see how good is the king lead spark.
o If sparks are absent/poor/weak and +12 volts is still present at coil positive then the coil is prime suspect for inspection/replacement.
o If sparks are fat/healthy then coil must be OK, so look for amplifier/pickup coil problems.
Test the Amplifier and Distributor Pickup Coil Together.
o Remove Distributor Cap.
o Disconnect ECU trigger wire from the 6.8k ohm resistor to prevent spurious signals getting to the ECU.
o Disconnect amplifier wire from coil negative.
o Connect a 12v 21W bulb from the same amplifier wire to coil positive (12 volt supply).
o The 21W bulb acts as a substitute coil load.
o Turn ignition on and rotate distributor rotor arm back and forward against the vacuum/mechanical advance springs.
o As the toothed reluctor wheel triggers the pickup coil, the amplifier should flash the bulb.
o If bulb flashing is positive and consistent the amplifier and pickup coil are working correctly together.
o If lamp does not flash or is inconsistent/weak either the amplifier or pickup coil is faulty.
Check the pickup coil independently
o Remove the amplifier connections to the pick-up coil and measure the resistance of the distributor pickup coil for a steady value between 500 ohms to 1500 ohms on the ohm-meter. Flex the wires at the same time to test their integrity.
o Outside the above range, short or open circuit indicates a croaky pickup coil.
o By process of elimination, if the pickup coil is OK, one might conclude the amplifier is faulty but nothing is ever that simple with electronic components, so to be sure:
Test the Amplifier independently
o What follows is an elegant but slightly complex test process.
o Use a 1.5 volt pen-cell battery connected in series with a (say} 2,700 ohm resistor and two flying leads to simulate the pickup coil.
o With the coil and amplifier connected normally and the distributor pickup coil disconnected from the amplifier, connect one flying lead to one of the amplifier input connectors and touch the other flying lead intermittantly across the second amplifier input connector.
o This emulates a pulsed input thereby activating the amplifier in sympathy to generate sparks from the coil?
o Polarity of this simulation is non-critical as neither flying lead is connected to earth, only to the amplifier input connectors, and the pulsing voltage from the pen-cell via the 2700 ohm resistor acts similar to the pickup coil input without causing stress or damage to the amplifier.
o The above test can be performed with the 21 watt bulb as the coil substitute as previously described, except in that circumstance, the pick-up coil simulation will flash the bulb.
Alternatively (for even more elegance), going one step further:
o Construct a small test box complete with switch, 21 watt bulb/holder, pen-cell battery, 2700 ohm resistor, 12 volt pos/neg power connections (from a car battery), spade connectors to the amplifier, etc.
o Connect up the 12 volts power and the amplifier to the test box and flick the switch repeatedly to emulate the pulsed input from a pickup coil and see the 21 watt bulb flash in sympathy to show the amplifier is working correctly.
Other Components
o Another possible component failure will be the suppressing condenser breaking down under the back-EMF from the coil.
o Remove condenser from circuit to see if the problem disappears.
o If yes, replace the condenser.
o Almost finally! For all the previous components check the LT wiring is not corroded, broken, dodgy or otherwise failing.
o Because all the components upstream of the king lead now check out OK, if fat sparks emerge from the king lead but not at the spark plugs its time to review the downstream components to see if they are dragging down, or failing to conduct, the Hi-Tension energy.
o Rotor arm - inspect for carbon tracking, clean with WD40, smear with a trace of silicon grease to prevent moisture ingress.
o Distibutor cap - inside and outside - inspect for carbon tracking, clean with WD40, smear with a trace of silicon grease to prevent moisture ingress. Wipe completely clean and shiny, especially between the turrets.
o Plug Leads and Hi-tension connectors - inspect for breaks and contact damage, clean with WD40, smear with a trace of silicon grease to prevent moisture ingress. Wipe completely clean and shiny.
o Spark Plugs - Check for recommended type, clean and gap to correct spec, inspect for insulator damage externally and whiskering/crud between central contact and body. Clean externally to a shine.
o The above four items are "zero cost" actions. Many owners replace them all never knowing which of the components may have been faulty.
o Check by swapping is an easy process before buying replacements.
o Looking for spark tracking on a dark night generally reveals faulty hi-tension parts.
Work in Process, Errors and omissions - please advise.
If and/when the voracity of the ignition system is established and the problem still exists, time to move on to a full and systematic check of all the Efi components.
Being unfamiliar with the Efi system on your car, means one can only point to such component descriptions/tests that exist in this archive that could be common to your system, and suggest a cherry picking test session accordingly.
If after all the above, the intermittent failure persists, then a dynamic check of the ignition system is called for.
Guaranteed Foolproof Intermittent Ignition Fault Finder.
Rig up two 4/5 watt 12 volt bulbs (or better still, 2V, 15mA LED's + 680 ohm resistors) on test leads into the cabin and connect one between coil +ve and earth and the other to coil -ve and earth. Mark the bulbs POS and NEG. Beware cables dont foul hot/moving parts.
Start the engine and observe:
POS sensing the ignition input voltage is permanently on,
AND
NEG sensing the pulsed voltage across the Ignition Amplifier flickers in sympathy with engine rpm, or is dimly lit (LED's flicker better).
Now drive the car and have a helper note what happens when the engine misbehaves.
If POS and NEG go out together there is an open circuit interruption of the 12 v feed such as a faulty wire/ignition switch,
OR
A short on the same circuit due to burned insulation.
If NEG comes full on the Ignition Amplifier (due to excess internal heat) or its associated wiring/earth has failed in open circuit mode,
OR
The pulsed input (ie Hall Effect or Reluctor) to the amplifier from the dizzy has failed or the associated wiring is faulty/shorting to earth,
OR
The Coil has failed in a short circuit mode (unlikely cos it would surely kill the amplifier methinks?)
If NEG goes out the Ignition Amplifier has temporarily failed in short circuit mode due to excess internal heat,
OR
the local wiring is shorting to earth,
OR
The coil has failed in open circuit mode due to insulation breakdown or internal heat
If POS stays lit and NEG show signs of flickering instabilitynot sympathetic with engine rpm, then the Ignition Amplifier or its connections are on the blink.
Failing all of the above, what are you left with?
O Crudded fuel tank
O Blocked fuel filters
O Injectors need cleaning, filters changing, new pintle caps, etc Check this Clicky for a unique home brew process.
Alternatively - Prayer!
Edited by honestjohntoo on Sunday 5th September 18:25
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff