Discussion
Hi peeps.. after fixing the AAD mounting plate and cleaning the AAD..Took it out and its still doing the same crap.. Its now been suggested that it could be the crank sensor.. Would the car start and run when warm as mine does although rough,,power of a donkey.if this was the case.. Ive got a mobile mech coming tom to av a look and hopefully get a solid answer as to what is going on.. I think its time to look for a lock up and forget about it till next year.. Out the lump and replace with a 3.5 v8 rover engine and gearbox..Cheers
mrzigazaga said:
I think its time to look for a lock up and forget about it till next year.. Out the lump and replace with a 3.5 v8 rover engine and gearbox..Cheers
Believe as the only person AFAIK to fit a RV8 into a S1 chassis without cutting it.It will be a lot cheaper to sell your car and buy 350i, than to do the conversion, yes it's possible, but will take a very long time, and will not be cheap.
Cheers chaps.. Iam seriously regretting this particular car.. especially as i keep looking at 350 for about the monies i had initially,,, Iam gonna try to get it running and out it as ive tried in the condition its in now and theres been no interest in it what so ever.. Even tried ads that say any tvr,any cond,any age,non runners.. and still no one wants it..I dont want to count it as a loss as i have had to give up work due to injury and have limited funds.. i just wanna drive.. its a car.. its meant to drive..im sick of looking at it.
Im taking the plugs out again tom and i reckon they will be black n sooty..Ive put the AAD back on that i took off in case the old one had failed electrically..There is a ticking noise coming from No6 area of rockers but my exhaust is blowing as well so i cant tell the difference at mo.. Its definately only when its hot..I know ive been advised to dismantle WUR but i have had enough of trying this that and other to find out what it is and unless someone can say it is definately that then im not even prepared to bother.. Ive called a mobile mechanic to see if he can sus it out.. if not the only alternative is to scrap it..torch it.. or sacrifice it.. which will be done at an event.. Ill have to sulk for the next 6 months and drive my pooey 420 rover till i have enough for another..
If your warm up regulator is not working your car will run like it has no fuel enrichment when cold - i.e. no choke so it will splutter and stall on acceleration - once it has warmed up the engine will run ok with a faulty regulator or at least mine did. You can only pick them up second hand these days i think - new they were over £200 each - usually find them on ebay for a lot less.
You can do a simple electrical test to see if it has packed in - not sure you can service them if you take them apart.
You can do a simple electrical test to see if it has packed in - not sure you can service them if you take them apart.
Please don't take this the wrong way, but....
You clearly don't understand the principles of the 2.8 MFI engine, you seem to be stabbing in the dark, possibly, as you are obviously being fed bad advise ((outside of PH) crank sensor!).
This engine is simple to fault find / diagnose, I really think your best option would to be take it to an old school garage or a Bosch specialist/agent.
The thought of dumping the 2.8 you can't get to run correctly to fit a more complex (ECU injection controlled) RV8, will be a far greater headache and budget blower than I think you realise.
Please don't think I'm just being a clever arse negative bast... If you lived a little closer (about 200 miles) I could take a look for you.
I did once have a problem on my 2.8MFI that really had me scratching my head (and still can't explain), it was after I rebuilt the car and the fuel metering unit was not sealed correctly to the air metering unit, I was suffering with serious fueling issues (remember even with this leak all air IS passing the air sensor plate)
Maybe you too also have a strange fault, but probability says its likely to be a simple fault(s).
Whichever way you turn, I wish you luck.
Chris.
You clearly don't understand the principles of the 2.8 MFI engine, you seem to be stabbing in the dark, possibly, as you are obviously being fed bad advise ((outside of PH) crank sensor!).
This engine is simple to fault find / diagnose, I really think your best option would to be take it to an old school garage or a Bosch specialist/agent.
The thought of dumping the 2.8 you can't get to run correctly to fit a more complex (ECU injection controlled) RV8, will be a far greater headache and budget blower than I think you realise.
Please don't think I'm just being a clever arse negative bast... If you lived a little closer (about 200 miles) I could take a look for you.
I did once have a problem on my 2.8MFI that really had me scratching my head (and still can't explain), it was after I rebuilt the car and the fuel metering unit was not sealed correctly to the air metering unit, I was suffering with serious fueling issues (remember even with this leak all air IS passing the air sensor plate)
Maybe you too also have a strange fault, but probability says its likely to be a simple fault(s).
Whichever way you turn, I wish you luck.
Chris.
Thanks chaps.. I think weve covered everything in previous posts..Basically.. The plugs keep getting fouled (black n sooty) after only minimun driving, It starts first time, warms up and then as soon as you go to drive it it looses power.. If you try to go up hill forget it.. Just dies.. Its like a reverse rev, The more you throttle the more it dies.. I know the plugs are gonna be the same cos it wont drive from cold and thats what it was doing before i cleaned the(new)plugs when they fouled up before..I did notice that air was still rushing through the AAD when warmed up and when i clamped it there was no difference in revs (didnt drop)..Ive still got this hunch that the guy who had it before me interfered with the mixture screw on the fuel distributor..possibly after breaking the AAD mounting plate.. I have spoken to a mobile mech whos familiar with this engine and hes gonna have a look.. The good thing is he dont charge for looking and hes £45ph no hidden extras..Hopefully by tomorrow i will know..I think in all honesty if i had the readies i would have the engine rebuilt..gas flowed..head conversion.. Co2 injected into inlet exhaust manifold for forced induction..A remote turbo and 100lbs of nos..Im gonna talk more to this welder that i know and see if he can make A frames.. Not sure if all wedges have same chassis but with more strengthening for bigger lumps, But if he can make em like he says for half of what anyone else can do then im sure it would be lucrative..Let yous know how i get on tom.. Many thanks,,zig
p;s Maybe not the turbo and the nos..just one of each..lol
p;s Maybe not the turbo and the nos..just one of each..lol
Have you pulled the fuel return line going back to the tank yet like I suggested 10 posts ago. The Bosch injection system is fairly simple but without everything working right it is like a poorly adjusted carb. Remember the computer is very minimal for it so it relies on mech. devices for operation. The pluger which once it reaches a certain pressure sends fuel back to the tank likes to get gunked up and stick if the car sits. The result will be very much like you are describing on the plugs as all that fuel has no relief. it just goes to the injectors.
benebob said:
Have you pulled the fuel return line going back to the tank yet like I suggested 10 posts ago. The Bosch injection system is fairly simple but without everything working right it is like a poorly adjusted carb.
Yes - this happened to a friend too, the line had kinked and wasn't letting fuel back to the tank, very very simple to check, just blow down it. This will cause rich running for sure.mrzigazaga said:
Im taking the plugs out again tom and i reckon they will be black n sooty..Ive put the AAD back on that i took off in case the old one had failed electrically..There is a ticking noise coming from No6 area of rockers but my exhaust is blowing as well so i cant tell the difference at mo.. Its definately only when its hot..I know ive been advised to dismantle WUR but i have had enough of trying this that and other to find out what it is and unless someone can say it is definately that then im not even prepared to bother.. Ive called a mobile mechanic to see if he can sus it out.. if not the only alternative is to scrap it..torch it.. or sacrifice it.. which will be done at an event.. Ill have to sulk for the next 6 months and drive my pooey 420 rover till i have enough for another..
Reminds me of my old 280 AND my old 420 diesel Rover. 
.
and you're not the only one to have to mess with the engine.
.
Cheers chaps.. sorry benebob i will have to go over previous posts, I was a bit blinkerd then and am starting to understand a bit more now..Im hoping the mech might pick up on all those bits tom..I will pick his brains.. he will definately have a headache after an hour.. got to get me monies worth..As i say i will spend time going through all the posts and checklist everything.. Although some suggestions on taking off rockers and such like is non feasable at the mo it is still good knowledge if i ever do... I wish someone would of told me at the very start that TVRs make you skitzo..
mrzigazaga said:
Hi peeps.. after fixing the AAD mounting plate and cleaning the AAD..Took it out and its still doing the same crap.. Its now been suggested that it could be the crank sensor.. Would the car start and run when warm as mine does although rough,,power of a donkey.if this was the case.. Ive got a mobile mech coming tom to av a look and hopefully get a solid answer as to what is going on.. I think its time to look for a lock up and forget about it till next year.. Out the lump and replace with a 3.5 v8 rover engine and gearbox..Cheers
Might be some useful stuff here. 
http://www.fordcapriforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?...
taz turbo said:
Please don't take this the wrong way, but....
You clearly don't understand the principles of the 2.8 MFI engine, you seem to be stabbing in the dark, possibly, as you are obviously being fed bad advise ((outside of PH) crank sensor!).
This engine is simple to fault find / diagnose, I really think your best option would to be take it to an old school garage or a Bosch specialist/agent.
The thought of dumping the 2.8 you can't get to run correctly to fit a more complex (ECU injection controlled) RV8, will be a far greater headache and budget blower than I think you realise.
Please don't think I'm just being a clever arse negative bast... If you lived a little closer (about 200 miles) I could take a look for you.
I did once have a problem on my 2.8MFI that really had me scratching my head (and still can't explain), it was after I rebuilt the car and the fuel metering unit was not sealed correctly to the air metering unit, I was suffering with serious fueling issues (remember even with this leak all air IS passing the air sensor plate)
Maybe you too also have a strange fault, but probability says its likely to be a simple fault(s).
Whichever way you turn, I wish you luck.
Chris.
While I endorse all of Chris's post (sorry Mark)You clearly don't understand the principles of the 2.8 MFI engine, you seem to be stabbing in the dark, possibly, as you are obviously being fed bad advise ((outside of PH) crank sensor!).
This engine is simple to fault find / diagnose, I really think your best option would to be take it to an old school garage or a Bosch specialist/agent.
The thought of dumping the 2.8 you can't get to run correctly to fit a more complex (ECU injection controlled) RV8, will be a far greater headache and budget blower than I think you realise.
Please don't think I'm just being a clever arse negative bast... If you lived a little closer (about 200 miles) I could take a look for you.
I did once have a problem on my 2.8MFI that really had me scratching my head (and still can't explain), it was after I rebuilt the car and the fuel metering unit was not sealed correctly to the air metering unit, I was suffering with serious fueling issues (remember even with this leak all air IS passing the air sensor plate)
Maybe you too also have a strange fault, but probability says its likely to be a simple fault(s).
Whichever way you turn, I wish you luck.
Chris.
It can be misleading to use "MFI", whilst CIS is a mechanical system. Bosch use MFI to descibe the injection system used in Porsches 917, some 911s, 930, 935etc, quite a complicated system that even compensates for altitude.
Better to use CIS or "any"tronic if you talk to a Bosch person or mechanic, they will know exactly what you have.
If you say MFI, they may not want to work on it.
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