No power what so ever uphill?
No power what so ever uphill?
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mrzigazaga

Original Poster:

18,816 posts

195 months

Thursday 16th September 2010
quotequote all
Hi chaps..mechanic aint turned up yet but i went and checked the plugs and sure enough they were black n sooty.. No5 cylinder showed more over heating and No3 was wetter than the rest.. I took the air pipe off of the warm up regulator and blew down it.. there was resistance like it was blocked... Ive actually parked on a hill facing up and even when cold and after cleaning plugs it wouldnt even pull away(Small backfire,dead throttle) It seems to not like hills at all and thats when its at its worst..could it be the warm up reg as my thoughts keep going back to the firing order.. although every combination has been tried only the way it works is how it is now..(kinda).. I removed the centreline petrol feed on the fuel dist as mentioned in previous posts and petrol came out..I just hope this mechanic turns up today cos i aint got a danny..spk soon chaps..ta

Barkychoc

7,848 posts

234 months

Thursday 16th September 2010
quotequote all
Are you getting ignition advance if you look at the marks with a timing light & rev the engine?

mrzigazaga

Original Poster:

18,816 posts

195 months

Thursday 16th September 2010
quotequote all
Hello mate.. when i rev the engine around 3000rpm the marks move away to the right or towards the floor.. looks like 15-20 btdc on the timing light..Ive also blocked the vaccum pipe and tested and it comes up nearly bang on 12 also my dizzy is stuck in place even after loads of WD so its a bit difficult to turn it..When i sucked the pipe the marks moved in the same direction as previous but only a fraction,about 15btdc..

Barkychoc

7,848 posts

234 months

Thursday 16th September 2010
quotequote all
The marks should move as you rev it - a little bit of revs should see the marks move, if its not moving at all till 3000 revs then it could be the advance weights sticking in the distributor.
There are weights inside that move with centrifugal force - as speed increases it advances the ignition up to a point when it will be at max advance.
Could be worth a little squirt of WD40 or something on the weight pivots if you can get to them without stripping the distributor down.

There are if I remember correctly some little oval core plug type arrangements in the side of the distributor - might be worth trying to carefully prise one out for a little squirt inside.

Alternatively

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GRANADA-MK2-2-8-2-8iV6-DISTR...

or

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-V6-DISTRIBUTOR-COLOGNE-...

This assumes it is an ignition problem and not injection irked

jeff m

4,066 posts

288 months

Thursday 16th September 2010
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. I took the air pipe off of the warm up regulator and blew down it.. there was resistance like it was blocked...

Don't worry that is correct, there is a diaphram in the WUR that you are blowing against. Engine sucks the diaphram, needle valve adjusts control pressure accordingly.

mrzigazaga

Original Poster:

18,816 posts

195 months

Thursday 16th September 2010
quotequote all
Thanks chaps.. Yes barkychoc the marks move gradually if i rev it gradually..is it worth changing the condensor(the only bit i never).. would this cause any probs like this..It seems that everything suggested is working ok..Thanks jeff..just looking at email regarding WUR that you sent.. cheers..m

Barkychoc

7,848 posts

234 months

Thursday 16th September 2010
quotequote all
As long as it is firing on all 6 cylinders I'd focus your efforts on the fuelling as you already are.

As I understand it the 2.8 injection system is not all that complex in terms of how it works - apart from when it isn't working and you're trying to fix it!

Can you get the injection pipes out of the injectors?

As I understand it all injectors are pumping fuel all of the time - its the flow rate that varies on the mechanical injection system - I'm trying to work out in my head what you could eliminate if you swapped some of the pipes around between cylinders.

pistolar

1,474 posts

298 months

Thursday 16th September 2010
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Easy ... just take it out of gear and go downhill

mrzigazaga

Original Poster:

18,816 posts

195 months

Thursday 16th September 2010
quotequote all
Thanks chaps.. I was going to ask the mobile mechanic to check the injectors but it dont look like hes turning up..If i have to do it will i need a air chamber gasket or can i use the old one?..As i say when its facing downhill it revs well over 4000rpm but on even a small incline it will not even attempt rev over 1500rpm..It must be either the fuel pump..or something that is failing under load..The injectors look pretty easy to get at.. Maybe i should get a massive spotlight and interrogate the car..Ve have vays of making you verk..

mrzigazaga

Original Poster:

18,816 posts

195 months

Thursday 16th September 2010
quotequote all
Just been burning me eyes reading umpteen ford sites and there is quite a few people having what sounds like the same issue as me even though they are different cars and alot of them do say that clogged injectors would cause a fail on load and sooting of plugs..after all when i got the car the guy did say there was rust in the fuel line although i dont know what one he was talking about..I will look into taking them out,Im hoping they can be cleaned or i will look into replacing them..or the engine.. found one here..
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SCORPIO-COSWORTH-24V-V6-BOB-...

Edited by mrzigazaga on Thursday 16th September 20:13

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Thursday 16th September 2010
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Checked the fuel return line yet - with this rich running (sooty plugs) it would be my first port of call.

mrzigazaga

Original Poster:

18,816 posts

195 months

Thursday 16th September 2010
quotequote all
sorry adam..no i havent..im not 100%sure which one it is..i was looking in capri manual at the fuel diagram and it looks like one of the two on the WUR,Does it go to pressure reg from WUR and then to tank.. I also need some banjo soft copper washers as my last experience with fuel n hard ones werent nice..will have to check previous posts again for what to do as the manual dont say much on the subject..I found a company that offer to ultrasonically clean and test injectors for £12.50 ea.. Although i dont want to spend any more money untill i can find out exactly what it is.. I must say on reading several posts on capris,colonges and even modern cars the injector issuse do sound more spot on than any other fault diagnosis as there is normally an area of discrepancy when refering to the book ie; Stops and dont start..mine does..starts then backfires and stalls.. mine dont..Starts..backfires..stalls..stops and dont start..mine does and it dont..banghead

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Friday 17th September 2010
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It will be the line from the fuel pressure regulator back to the tank. It's easy on the RV8 - you just undo a jubille clip on the FPR and pull off the rubber line, but I suppose the V6 may have the dreaded banjo connector which you have to be careful not to break.

mrzigazaga

Original Poster:

18,816 posts

195 months

Friday 17th September 2010
quotequote all
Yes mate its got banjos.. Like i said dont really wanna do it till i got some spares ideally soft ones as them hard buggers are exactly that.. Im booked in the ford place next week and hopefully they will sort it.

benebob

365 posts

211 months

Saturday 18th September 2010
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The fuel return line isn't attached with banjos on the tank side. Besides it is easier to remove back there and put into a bucket to test.

mrzigazaga

Original Poster:

18,816 posts

195 months

Saturday 18th September 2010
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Hi peeps.. It is a 4 day wait till she goes to the garage so i might just leave it all to them to test..besides ive only got half the bike money left and i really know where i stand with this car.. cheers..