280i injection issues, try this one on for size
Discussion
Car has run nearly flawlessly sans a cold start injecor, computer, freq valve and 02 sensor for the past year. Last weekend I get in it and make it about a mile then it shuts off flooded. Dialed back the idle mixture a bit. Next 3 starts before woodwork went perfectly fine. Get to Woodwork and all 3 cold starts results in about a mile then plugs foul, it dies, restart up and she runs just fine. I've got the plug pull and clean down to a science. Can to in about 15 minutes. Getting power to the aux air valve it shows 42 ohms or resistance, Getting power to the WUR which is showing 26 ohms of resistance. Your thoughts?
Guessing time
Most faults will increase gas and air.
Just an increase in gas would point towards the thermotime switch and cold start injector.
The thermotime switch ops from start pos of key. Bimetal strip starts to heat, when hot cuts power to cold start injector.
(If car is "hot" it will not op the injector and no timing takes place.)
Disable thermothingy, black yellow I think.(on the key side)
Or you WUR has gone belly up. I hope not.
Most faults will increase gas and air.
Just an increase in gas would point towards the thermotime switch and cold start injector.
The thermotime switch ops from start pos of key. Bimetal strip starts to heat, when hot cuts power to cold start injector.
(If car is "hot" it will not op the injector and no timing takes place.)
Disable thermothingy, black yellow I think.(on the key side)
Or you WUR has gone belly up. I hope not.
I have no cold start injector. Have been running without it for a year or so as I had plenty of stuff missing when I got it. Everything seems to be working right. Just runs real rich until it warms up. Then if I clean the plugs it runs just fine. Getting what I should out of the resistance for the wur. I do have a spare which is working but don't think that is the issue.
Now if I removed the aux air hose by the throttle body it would idle much higher so obviously it would like to have more air while warming up. Tried raising the air intake plate and that didn't seem to help
Now if I removed the aux air hose by the throttle body it would idle much higher so obviously it would like to have more air while warming up. Tried raising the air intake plate and that didn't seem to help
benebob said:
I have no cold start injector. Have been running without it for a year or so as I had plenty of stuff missing when I got it. Everything seems to be working right. Just runs real rich until it warms up. Then if I clean the plugs it runs just fine. Getting what I should out of the resistance for the wur. I do have a spare which is working but don't think that is the issue.
Now if I removed the aux air hose by the throttle body it would idle much higher so obviously it would like to have more air while warming up. Tried raising the air intake plate and that didn't seem to help
Sorry about the thermotime switch/cold start injector suggestion, I should learn to read betterNow if I removed the aux air hose by the throttle body it would idle much higher so obviously it would like to have more air while warming up. Tried raising the air intake plate and that didn't seem to help
The AAD only supplies extra air when cold, but this air passes the lift plate. So it supplies extra gas and air.
Usually just need to be degunked. Benificial to have this working, although I doubt this is your prob.
Lifting the plate gives you more gas not more air (that will not help.)
When you say you have no cold start injector, you do have the fitting I hope because that is where the AAD hose attatches.!!!!
Having the correct resistance on the WUR is good but that just means the little coil is good. More important is the integrity of the diaphram between the gas and the vacuum and it's ability to move.
So clean ADD.
Then I would get some quality carb cleaner like B12 chemtool (pep Boys)and run it through your WUR, If it runs ok hot I doubt your WUR diaphram has gone, maybe just gummed up and giving wrong supply at cold. (It's a small needle valve and spring inside)
Once you get it running properly return that Idle mixture screw to it's orig position.
Assumimg it ran well before of course.
Hello mate..Ive yet to get her back but as you may know ive had a nightmare running car..mine was fouling only two plugs and apart from other related issues there were two injectors that were dribbling instead of spraying..If your fuel gauge is in-accurate then it could be a sign of the tanks gumming up or flaking off the seal of the tank..my fuel gauge read 1/2 and when the mechanic drained the tank only a litre came out..the gauge was gummed up..so was everything else as it happens..before i bought mine it sat for 10yrs and the guy who had it before me..started it up (big mistake)and drove it for about 5 months and then it started to develope the problems it has now..Even though i replaced the fuel filter,twice.. the new one couldnt even be blown through it was so blocked..hope yours is not this but thought id mentin it..ta..zig
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