The worst winter in 30yrs is upon us...

[mrzigazaga]

Hi peeps..apparently thats what the weather folks are saying..Well i did plan on using the car as an everyday vehicle (no garage) but the hood has no covering on inside..wether they are meant to or not im not sure but next month im getting the hood done and linned..the carpet will have to wait..snow chains and skis at the ready..got me hobnail boots and an army sleeping bag made into jumpsuit..well sorted.have driven many times in snow..great fun..just gotta watch out for idiots who never have...

[simonwedge]

Agree with your comments. As far as I'm aware none of the hoods has a separate lining - mine certainly hasn't. The biggest problem with driving wedges in the winter (apart from lack of traction) is the ineffective demist function. Mine has been altered to include two big pipes that funnel fresh air from the front of the car into the heater unit thereby overcoming this issue.

[Jonny weggie]

simonwedge said:

Agree with your comments. As far as I'm aware none of the hoods has a separate lining - mine certainly hasn't. The biggest problem with driving wedges in the winter (apart from lack of traction) is the ineffective demist function. Mine has been altered to include two big pipes that funnel fresh air from the front of the car into the heater unit thereby overcoming this issue.

Hi Simon, if you dont mined how and where do you fit two pipes into the heater unit.

Thanks john.

[mrzigazaga]

Cheers mate..Thats a good point..Where did you run the pipe..You got me thinking now..the space behind me isnt gonna serve much use so i was wondering if a pipe would fit under the centre console and run to the rear with an upward facing vent?..might have to sacrifice one of the dash vents..probably have to reduce pipe down..or build an MDF surround (pimp my ride)in the back behind seats with a couple of computer fans in it..switched at the front..it will only act like an inline fan pulling air from cabin and directing it up..probably house the stereo and speakers as well..spose a wire would be easier than a pipe..cheers.mark.

[simonwedge]

Jonny weggie said:

Hi Simon, if you dont mined how and where do you fit two pipes into the heater unit.

Thanks john.

Pics attached, the pipes are 50mm internal diameter corrugated plastic tube rated upto 125 degrees c. They slot onto the grey plastic pipes at the heater unit end and run down to behind the mesh screen in the front spoiler. They certainly work as I've never had any issues with misting up - even in the pouring rain.

[Campbell]

My wind screen never mists up )when the car is in the garage)
Some day ill have the dash out and have a propper look at the heater setup.
I supose i could fit a 3" inline turbo fan t help with air flow

[mrzigazaga]

MMM..food for thought.. Does that pipe work on air being scooped in and directed to screen?..i was thinking of making a unit to house fans and some speakers..finished in veneer.. to take care of the rear screen.... i spose the orig blower is only good for single purpose..screen only or side vents only..a more powerfull blower would help..Im hoping the unit can deal with the space behind me as its not much use for anything else..silly idea?..dont wanna pimp it too much..just a bit.

Edited by mrzigazaga on Friday 22 October 14:23

[dixiebabes]

simonwedge said:

Jonny weggie said:

Hi Simon, if you dont mined how and where do you fit two pipes into the heater unit.

Thanks john.

Pics attached, the pipes are 50mm internal diameter corrugated plastic tube rated upto 125 degrees c. They slot onto the grey plastic pipes at the heater unit end and run down to behind the mesh screen in the front spoiler. They certainly work as I've never had any issues with misting up - even in the pouring rain.

Now thats a good idea!!

[mrzigazaga]

Just found two diagrams of heaters and not sure what is in mine till i have a butchers..But the ford manual says 1. standard behr heater.which looks like its got a moody little fan that wouldnt blow out a candle..it just smells hot and 2. standard smiths heater. which looks like its got some gonnads..I will check the connections as ive had previous cars with naff air flow only to be rectified by re-attaching pipework.. Also the controlls are a bit stiff so they probably need un-seizing(sliders)yuk!!..Wonder if the fan could be upgraded without disturbing the matrix..might have to revamp the upper casing..cheers..mark

[Solitude]

dixiebabes said:

simonwedge said:

Jonny weggie said:

Hi Simon, if you dont mined how and where do you fit two pipes into the heater unit.

Thanks john.

Pics attached, the pipes are 50mm internal diameter corrugated plastic tube rated upto 125 degrees c. They slot onto the grey plastic pipes at the heater unit end and run down to behind the mesh screen in the front spoiler. They certainly work as I've never had any issues with misting up - even in the pouring rain.

Now thats a good idea!!

Seconded !!

[adam quantrill]

mrzigazaga said:

Hi peeps..apparently thats what the weather folks are saying..

Hmm - better not sell the Jeep just yet, then!

The screen doesn't mist up so much if you put the top down.....

[MJG280]

I have done a similar ting to Series 1 FHC with two fans. Binned the weakest fan, removed the intake boxing from under the bonnet, blocked up passenger side hole.

Then took that plastic ducting that's used in kitchens with a circular to rectangular adapter. Use a rubber joint that you can buy for them and attach it to the fan and run it to the front. Haven't got a finished photo as it's part dismatled but it does fit.

My heater and demist now works loads better because I took it all apart and rebuilt it properly.

Also as the box has gone I can fit a proper sized oil filter



I will take another photo tomorrow. Just have to move a pile of insulation

[mrzigazaga]

I dont like the sound of that 2" pipe coming from the front end..hope its not open to the elements and mice..now you dont want this do you..

Id love to find its dead body and dip his head in ceramic paint and mount it on the dash..
I spose its ok if your fan is good to start with..mine only works on..on and off,,think switch is naff..cheers.

[MJG280]

The heater switch and the very interesting resistance wire have been replaced with an off/on switch. I expect that there will be enough forced air when moving. I found that a large mastic gun was very useful when attending to the heater to stop air leaking out everywhere

[mrzigazaga]

Yes..forced air is just that..as long as you are moving..you obviously dont live in london..does your flap close it off..Id be more inclined to cap off the floor facing vents so the air is forced more to the screen or upgrade the system to a more powerfull fan which would probably be a nightmare..

[Wedg1e]

On my car the heater is recirculating only; it doesn't have a fresh air intake anywhere. A previous owner had the screen vents replaced with two massive things: total waste of time, I could fart more warm air.

The heater is a TVR special (the matrix is probably from a Mini or whatever) but the air diverter flap never seals properly so the air goes round it rather than in the direction it's wanted. Think it has to magically turn 90 degrees, in a square box rather than a proper duct.

The early wedge's motor was actually a single-speed item; to create a slower speed they put several yards of coiled wire in series with it to drop the voltage... another waste of time and effort (especially since by the early 80s there were plenty of superb fans being fitted in cars; guess they got a cheap deal from Lucas).

[MJG280]

I use duster to block off the floor vents (Proper vent valves are available) and as I had the matrix recored it does demist. The air diverter flap appeared to be made of boiler plate which was handy as it's now half the origonal thickness after I scraped a pile of rust off it. It is fairly useless.

I spent time 'adjusting' everything when I should have bought one of those heaters for kit cars. Trouble is I'm tightfisted.

The fresh air thing does work cos us up north can drive on our roads.

For demisting the rear window on an FHC just make an 'access hatch' for the rear brakes and leave the lid off. Works a treat!

[mrzigazaga]

Hi mjg..what ones you talking about..is it the one where you have to cut a hole in ya dash or the turbo fan for £90..I think with that choice most people opt for the latter as i wouldnt wanna start cutting holes in me dash..espescially on the top..but 90 sobs is a bit heavy for a fan..found some in china but theres no price..I do remember an old ford escort i had with the same lousy fan but there was improvement when i re-fixed the pipes and sealed it with duct tape(ally foil) not gaffa..maybe the plate needs a new seal around it..its a shame they are such a pig to get at..will endeavour..

[MJG280]

This is my fresh air tube



Because the V6 radiator is just in front of the engine I have blocked off the gaps at the side and the pipe exits through that into the cool fresh air. I will wrap the tube in some foil insulation and I know it'll still look daft and the twin convoluted pipes look as if they were meant to be there whereas mine looks like I got lost in my bathroom but the windscreen demists

[mrzigazaga]

If it does the job mate,,thats all you need,,beware of plastics under bonnet,,I made an air collection box for a rover 214 and although it worked i didnt check it regular for movement and it landed up on me exhaust and although it was heat retardant it wasnt up to the temperatures of the exhaust..then it fell out..somewhat melted..Have you considered a smaller bore heat retardant pipe with a reducer,marine suppliers are pretty good..it would be a bit more flexible.. I put an idea up on a new post as regards to optional incomming air..RE;De-mister issues..Im gonna at least make one to see if it works..cheers.zig

Edited by mrzigazaga on Saturday 23 October 20:55