Last call for help before my car goes to the garage 2.8i
Discussion
i have recently bought a 1981 2.8i tvr tasmin that has a few problems that i was wondering if anybody else has experinced.
1.On start up it runs for a few seconds then cuts out after several atempts the car will eventually start up
2.when the car is running the car runs ok but has no power
Please can anybody help
1.On start up it runs for a few seconds then cuts out after several atempts the car will eventually start up
2.when the car is running the car runs ok but has no power
Please can anybody help
Pull your plunger on the side of the fuel meter and clean it up. Also pull your warm up regulator and clean it as well. The swirl pot can also get clogged as can the thing that is beside the fuel pump. Actuator is what is coming to me off the top of the head. Granted I would just take them off and shake them to see if their clogged not replace 'em unless you know they're bad. Injectors are pretty easy to yank on the 2.8. Might be worth pulling and running a direct feed from the battery to the fuel pump and see what you're getting out of them and see how the pattern is. You can do an at home cleaning of them with some spray cleaner shoved down in to open up the spring. This would also be a good time to run some fuel cleaner through the meter via the fuel pump. Disconnect and plug the line going to the pump then use a container containing fuel system cleaner, run it through with the injectors out. While out it would also be a great time to do a leak down test of the injectors (although it isn't likely your problem now) old bosch injectors are known to dribble while under pressure emptying gas into the cylinder when the car isn't running but still under pressure.
Hello mate..Mine was full of rust where it had been sitting for some years.. it would start.. run.. cut out..no power..especially on load or uphill..Check to see what the fuel is like from the filter at bulkhead,,near fuel metering head,,make sure you have new copper washers for the banjos though...If there is rust in fuel it could of possibly got into the injectors,,metering head..WUR..fuel lines and pump..I hope not but its a possibility..If its only in tank and hasnt progressed too much then stop starting it and drain it all down..if the tank is repairable (platicised) then youve had a result..mine was caputtun...I have the old rusty drivers side which im hoping can be re-produced in plastic and supplied to others as a remedy or cheap alternative..But if you have half the amount of rust from two tanks that i had from one then its a mission..heres ten years of one tanks rust to give you an idea,,
Edited by mrzigazaga on Wednesday 3rd November 22:47
Sorry no pics, but it does sound to me as though you have s
t in tank/lines and so on.
You get st in the Pre filter if fitted to the pump, st and the post filter to the injector st, really makes no difference the st is stll there, shag a filter shag a pump shag an injector.
Myself i would have the tanks looked at.
When you think of what feeds the engine, you have a mass void of fuel and then you have a series of filters and pump, small bore hoses.
Bearing in mind i am 2 thirds of the way dowmn a bottle of Russian falling down water.
Rob
t in tank/lines and so on.You get s
t in the Pre filter if fitted to the pump, st and the post filter to the injector st, really makes no difference the st is stll there, shag a filter shag a pump shag an injector.Myself i would have the tanks looked at.
When you think of what feeds the engine, you have a mass void of fuel and then you have a series of filters and pump, small bore hoses.
Bearing in mind i am 2 thirds of the way dowmn a bottle of Russian falling down water.
Rob
The silver filter in the lower middle of the pic is the one to check..make sure you have a spare filter before you check it..also some copper washers for the re-fitting (softer the better)..If you have rust in there then it has probably got through the filters in the metering head and into your injectors..I had two that were blocked and it was like it was the wrong firing order...If you can get the car up in the air and take off the 5/8" fuel pipe that joins the two tanks to get a sample..lowest point would be better to see if there is rust in tanks..But if you have rust in the filter it is more likely to have come from the tanks..hope this helps..zig
Ps..I made mine worst by keep starting it ..If the guy that had it before me didnt start it after being stored and drained out the fuel and replaced tanks and pipes it would of been still a poxy job but no rubbish would of got into injection system...you will be extremely lucky to find another fuel metering head or WUR.. I have one of each but need to find someone to refurb..
Edited by mrzigazaga on Wednesday 3rd November 23:27
Can you take a pic from other side..under the air intake pipe.. Should be able to see it though i cant,,Its the last point of replacement fuel filter..after that its going through the metering head and on to your injectors..Im sure you should have a fuel filter there..The one in my pic is slightly bigger than orig..Your battery is on the opposite side to mine as well.. you sure theres no filter attached to the largest of lines going into metering unit..To be honest with you i wouldnt want to do the job myself even if i could..I got a face full of petrol twice while changing fuel filter and then it wouldnt do up and then it split cos i got the hump..the tanks are gonna be the problem..they had to cut my trailing arm pins as passenger side tank comes out with a wiggle but the drivers side has to be wheel off..drop suspension.. then hope the straps arent knackered and then theres finding another tank/tanks..or repairing yours if they can be but i had quotes from £280+vat to repair or anything up to £900 each for new ones..Im looking into a marine company to quote me for plastic fuel tanks but im not 100% sure they will fit all or any other wedge..Im hoping so..Sorry to put a boc on it but unfortuneately thats the reality..i hope yours isnt as bad as mine was..
Edited by mrzigazaga on Thursday 4th November 00:12
First test, check fuel delivery.
Release fuel pressure at fuel regulater, just loosen do not remove,use cloth to catch fuel.
I hope the cloth is wet
If dry you have a leak or your accumalator is clogged and not able to spring back.
P.reg is a hex nut on the front of the Fuel dist.
Find the return fuel hose, it's on the "wheel side" of the Fuel dist.
Get the fuel pump to run either by 12v or by changing the safety module with a reg relay and swichting on ign. Measure fuel into a jar. 500 or 750ccs in 30 seconds, I'll come back and edit the incorrect figure But whatever it's a decent amount. If you don't get close to this.
Then work backwards in the fuel supply route, til you find the problem.
Lets hope you don't get all the way back as Mark did.
So Filtre, accumalator, pump, swirl pot, tanks.
Note if you don't have flow you cannot have the correct pressure.
Ps it could just be a sticking lift plate but while you are testing that you could be encourage more crap into your fuel head etc.
Release fuel pressure at fuel regulater, just loosen do not remove,use cloth to catch fuel.
I hope the cloth is wet
If dry you have a leak or your accumalator is clogged and not able to spring back.P.reg is a hex nut on the front of the Fuel dist.
Find the return fuel hose, it's on the "wheel side" of the Fuel dist.
Get the fuel pump to run either by 12v or by changing the safety module with a reg relay and swichting on ign. Measure fuel into a jar. 500 or 750ccs in 30 seconds, I'll come back and edit the incorrect figure
But whatever it's a decent amount. If you don't get close to this.Then work backwards in the fuel supply route, til you find the problem.
Lets hope you don't get all the way back as Mark did.
So Filtre, accumalator, pump, swirl pot, tanks.
Note if you don't have flow you cannot have the correct pressure.
Ps it could just be a sticking lift plate but while you are testing that you could be encourage more crap into your fuel head etc.
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