Hot Start Problem
Discussion
Hi
Took my 280I out for the first run for the MOT today. Confident it would pass. Maybe if it had started again at the garage I might have been in luck. First time Ive had it up to temperature and it wont start. Towed back home and left to cool for a couple of hours and it starts first time every time. Found the pipe large air pipe that goes to the throttle body has numerous splits in it, sealed them up and will try again tomorrow. Does anybody else have any other ideas of the cause ?
Well pleased, drives and sounds awesome.
Took my 280I out for the first run for the MOT today. Confident it would pass. Maybe if it had started again at the garage I might have been in luck. First time Ive had it up to temperature and it wont start. Towed back home and left to cool for a couple of hours and it starts first time every time. Found the pipe large air pipe that goes to the throttle body has numerous splits in it, sealed them up and will try again tomorrow. Does anybody else have any other ideas of the cause ?
Well pleased, drives and sounds awesome.
Hi mate..Sometimes non starting when hot can be down to damaged wires,Plug leads,Coil leads..As the temperature rises the wire expands and creates a gap in the connection,perhaps check the spark from each plug lead when hot...Could be a failing coil..Definately sort the leaks in your air pipe..ECU could be playing up..I will have a look at my past problems but i dont think i had this issue..Most of mine where non-starting due to contaminated fuel..Hope this helps..Maybe someone on here with more experience will be able to help..good luck..Zig
woodycctv said:
Hi
Took my 280I out for the first run for the MOT today. Confident it would pass. Maybe if it had started again at the garage I might have been in luck. First time Ive had it up to temperature and it wont start. Towed back home and left to cool for a couple of hours and it starts first time every time. Found the pipe large air pipe that goes to the throttle body has numerous splits in it, sealed them up and will try again tomorrow. Does anybody else have any other ideas of the cause ?
Well pleased, drives and sounds awesome.
With splits in that big pipe/hose from the throttle body to the lift plate you are lucky it ran at all.Took my 280I out for the first run for the MOT today. Confident it would pass. Maybe if it had started again at the garage I might have been in luck. First time Ive had it up to temperature and it wont start. Towed back home and left to cool for a couple of hours and it starts first time every time. Found the pipe large air pipe that goes to the throttle body has numerous splits in it, sealed them up and will try again tomorrow. Does anybody else have any other ideas of the cause ?
Well pleased, drives and sounds awesome.
Engine pulls air past the lift plate which lift it to regulate fuel.
Actually I suspect that is not your problem, whilst it needs rectifying, it would not only affect hot starting. The cracks are probably small and are closing with the vacuum created. (otherwise it would not drive and sound awesome)
More likely to be AAD stuck open, WUR (less likely) or dribbling cold start injector.
Does it smell of fuel?
Act performances do the plenum hose but im not sure if they will fit the tasmin..Best to ring..I did find someone else but cant find at mo...will post it when i do..Zig
http://www.actproducts.co.uk/shop/ti001-griffith-c...
http://www.actproducts.co.uk/shop/ti001-griffith-c...
you can get the hose from ford the original Granada / Capri are no longer available but a ford orion diesel one fits - at least I think it is from this model - I got mine from there - it is a little shorter than the original but if you turn the mushroom cover around a little it fits perfectly - dont buy them from TVR dealers they will cost you a fair bit more. Any air leak in this part will cause you starting and idling problems big style - a temp repair would be to wrap your hose in insulating tape and cover all the splits.
Hope this helps
Cheers
Ian
Hope this helps
Cheers
Ian
Pull the two hoses off your ADD.
Car cold you can see a 2/3rds moon shape hole.
Car hot it should be closed.
ADD and WUR work in conjunction and regulate fuel according to temp. So if one thinks it's hot and one says it is cold.
OR.... if someone has messed with the small screw in the top of the fuel distributer, (idle mixture adj) then it could be lean when hot. (lean when cold would,'t matter because it would be masked by the ADD and WUR richening it)
Car would run ok.
I'm not suggesting you adjust it but you could give it a bit more air (and thus gas) by opening up the by pass screw in throttle body. (The big one under the butterfly, not the butterfly stop.)
Should this work it will also raise your idle rpms, we can deal with that later.
After thought.....coil is not "too hot to hold"?
Car cold you can see a 2/3rds moon shape hole.
Car hot it should be closed.
ADD and WUR work in conjunction and regulate fuel according to temp. So if one thinks it's hot and one says it is cold.
OR.... if someone has messed with the small screw in the top of the fuel distributer, (idle mixture adj) then it could be lean when hot. (lean when cold would,'t matter because it would be masked by the ADD and WUR richening it)
Car would run ok.
I'm not suggesting you adjust it but you could give it a bit more air (and thus gas) by opening up the by pass screw in throttle body. (The big one under the butterfly, not the butterfly stop.)
Should this work it will also raise your idle rpms, we can deal with that later.
After thought.....coil is not "too hot to hold"?
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