Switch Plate veneer
Discussion
The cut outs arent as bad as they look in the picture!!
Before varnishing and before the cut outs have been filed back to size.
After about 6 coats of normal furniture gloss varnish, I think Ill be needing about 20 more
Im also experimenting with other ways of getting it nice and shiny, like spray laquer etc, the best ive got so far is using araldite quick setting smothered over the veneer, it gives a good depth and doesnt sink into the wood immediately like the varnish does, which is why the varnish is giving a rough dull finish.
I might re do the first attempt and use araldite if the varnishing dont work!
Stu
Just think about all those poor little lady lac bugs that have been forced into secreting their cocoon coatings just so we can have lush wood finishes..Ta
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&am...
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&am...
A spray lacquer would be your best option, you'll need less coats, it's quick drying and it gives a far superior finish. You could probably get away with 3 coats on bare veneer with a cut back using 320 grit between coats 2 and 3. You would also need to prep sand through the grits to 320 before spraying - 120, 180, 240, 320 should do it
Ironballs said:
A spray lacquer would be your best option, you'll need less coats, it's quick drying and it gives a far superior finish. You could probably get away with 3 coats on bare veneer with a cut back using 320 grit between coats 2 and 3. You would also need to prep sand through the grits to 320 before spraying - 120, 180, 240, 320 should do it
I'm not sure that sanding a plastic laminate would be a good idea 
Real walnut yes, but we all know what happens to THAT in a TVR...Ah ha HA, it is real walnut Burr!!
Ive got 3 big sheets of the stuff so it seemed silly not to give it a go!
The wood just seems to suck up everything that i put onto it so perhaps some kind of coating before laquering would help?
I might try dipping a bit in PVA glue and see how it dries before laquering.
Any other tips greatfully received.
Stu
Ive got 3 big sheets of the stuff so it seemed silly not to give it a go!
The wood just seems to suck up everything that i put onto it so perhaps some kind of coating before laquering would help?
I might try dipping a bit in PVA glue and see how it dries before laquering.
Any other tips greatfully received.
Stu
Yacht varnish will give you an antique type look..Its best put on in thin layers to start with,mix with 25-50% white spirit but thats on bare wood and after a light sanding to prep.Allow to thoroughly dry or you will get sagging..After a couple of thin layer start to build up,Untill your satified with the finish..Yacht varnish is a good finish for veneer as it doesnt look so clinical..mmm..my glovebox could do with a new bit of veneer..how much did you say you have me ole mucker..;)
I am in the process of restoring the dash in my 350SX and as I want to retain the original veneer this means the job has become a 100 times harder (I should add here that this is what I do for a living).....
Mine had lifted in areas so I had to carefully remove where it was stuck, in my case 1989 car the veneer was first layed on to 1.5mm areo ply then applied to the metal, the clove box and spedo dash where off the metal but still stuck to the ply the centre had delaminated in areas so I had to reapply the veneer to the ply then glue it to the metal. you need to use glue that will move equal to the wood because of shrinkage so the best is Tightbond to glue the veneer to the ply however the ply and veneer will then need to be glued to the metal with a glue that has NO give Epiglue 2 part epoxy is best (marine glue).As mensioned before in another post you will need to go through the grades with sand paper start with 150 and finish with 320(don't skip a grade)......
Finish, No shellac, varnish polyurathane however its spelt!! won't cope with moisture or heat.
stain if required with a sprit stain as they are less likley to fade you can then use a sanding sealer to reduce the coats but this could make it less clear. if you are appling by hand there is a product called coach varnish/laquer(lots of thin coats cutback between each one) then polish with a cutting compound. the finish I took off mine I belive was a resin which makes sence plenty of that in the TVR factory.
I will be staining mine and having a 2pak clear spray finish I know a very good car sprayer who also does some furniture for me when required the modern paint technology means it will deal with anything and for me it is important it will deal with the Australian heat..I will post some pics as I go...
Happy to help if anyone has any questions
Adam
Mine had lifted in areas so I had to carefully remove where it was stuck, in my case 1989 car the veneer was first layed on to 1.5mm areo ply then applied to the metal, the clove box and spedo dash where off the metal but still stuck to the ply the centre had delaminated in areas so I had to reapply the veneer to the ply then glue it to the metal. you need to use glue that will move equal to the wood because of shrinkage so the best is Tightbond to glue the veneer to the ply however the ply and veneer will then need to be glued to the metal with a glue that has NO give Epiglue 2 part epoxy is best (marine glue).As mensioned before in another post you will need to go through the grades with sand paper start with 150 and finish with 320(don't skip a grade)......
Finish, No shellac, varnish polyurathane however its spelt!! won't cope with moisture or heat.
stain if required with a sprit stain as they are less likley to fade you can then use a sanding sealer to reduce the coats but this could make it less clear. if you are appling by hand there is a product called coach varnish/laquer(lots of thin coats cutback between each one) then polish with a cutting compound. the finish I took off mine I belive was a resin which makes sence plenty of that in the TVR factory.
I will be staining mine and having a 2pak clear spray finish I know a very good car sprayer who also does some furniture for me when required the modern paint technology means it will deal with anything and for me it is important it will deal with the Australian heat..I will post some pics as I go...
Happy to help if anyone has any questions
Adam
Stu
I have done what you are trying - the secret is to just keep applying coats of laquer as you have been - let it dry apply more - let it dry apply more - tedious I know but it will stop soaking it up eventually. On the final coats I blocked it back with 280 grit initially working up to 800 grit then sprayed a two pack laquer onto mine - I am guessing you can use you a spray can of laquer if you don't have the spray gear - patience is the key to a glass like finish.
Cheers
Ian
I have done what you are trying - the secret is to just keep applying coats of laquer as you have been - let it dry apply more - let it dry apply more - tedious I know but it will stop soaking it up eventually. On the final coats I blocked it back with 280 grit initially working up to 800 grit then sprayed a two pack laquer onto mine - I am guessing you can use you a spray can of laquer if you don't have the spray gear - patience is the key to a glass like finish.
Cheers
Ian
in the last pic you can see the layers, steel, 1.5mm ply and then the veneer(which as I said before is the original to the car, I had to keep it as the dash is shown in publications and proves it is the same car) which is I.D'd as American black walnut if anyone is curious 
it was the most redally available burr walnut and therefore least expencive then still is the most available but the cost has gone up 
it was the most redally available burr walnut and therefore least expencive then still is the most available but the cost has gone up Edited by Oz2 on Friday 25th March 10:56
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