Tasmin 280i - what to look for
Discussion
I'm getting the TVR itch again and, as there are no modern TVR's in the USA, I've been looking at slightly older cars and have seen a Tasmin 280i near me that (on paper) looks a very good buy. It's from 1986 (one year before TVR stopped exporting to the USA) and has covered only 28000 miles. I'm assuming that the Essex engine is pretty straightforward but what should I be particularly looking for on one of these cars?
I'd be grateful for any tips.
Thanks. Paul
I'd be grateful for any tips.
Thanks. Paul
The 280i is actually a Cologne engine, not an Essex (that was the Ford 3.0 litre).
Most important thing to look out for is the chassis, a rusty chassis is the hardest and possibly most expensive thing to fix.
Then I suppose look for bad body repairs and / or cracks and crazing in the fibreglass.
Good luck!
Most important thing to look out for is the chassis, a rusty chassis is the hardest and possibly most expensive thing to fix.
Then I suppose look for bad body repairs and / or cracks and crazing in the fibreglass.
Good luck!
Paul,
I took the plunge 2 years ago site unseen, not running and pink from sitting in the dessert for much of its life. Had the car shipped to me and haven't been happier with my results. As was already stated to those across the pond and here as well rust is an issue. Other issue which will cost ya is going to be a poorly maint. fuel system as the parts are few and far between in Europe and nearly non-existant here. IMO stay away from the majority of the low mileage cars as they did just what cars shouldn't- sat for long periods. Of course there are exceptions to that rule but I still stick to it as a general rule.
Other things to be aware of and price accordingly are poorly handling cars as the bushings are pricey here and time consuming to put in. Most everything else is available or fixable provided the car is complete. Check out the USA Yahoo Group and TVR Car Club of NA for some local feedback and some members cars forsale. Feel free to email me at blroth@yahoo.com if you have any specific questions etc. Depending on where your at I'd even let you go over mine with a fine tooth comb so you can see the good, the bad and the ugly. All TVRs at this point contain a mix as the newest one here is about 25 years old.
So far it seems I'm one of the young and dumb stateside 280i owners who does nearly everything himself and bought nothing but a solid body, amazingly rust free chassis and not much else but it was exactly what I wanted and makes me so happy to climb under it and be able to take nearly any bolt off with a 3/8 ratchet, not a grinding wheel. As with any car buy the best you can or are willing to afford and be honest with yourself about your mechanical abilities or willingness to work on it and your garages willingness to work on an oddball if you won't be doing the work yourself.
I took the plunge 2 years ago site unseen, not running and pink from sitting in the dessert for much of its life. Had the car shipped to me and haven't been happier with my results. As was already stated to those across the pond and here as well rust is an issue. Other issue which will cost ya is going to be a poorly maint. fuel system as the parts are few and far between in Europe and nearly non-existant here. IMO stay away from the majority of the low mileage cars as they did just what cars shouldn't- sat for long periods. Of course there are exceptions to that rule but I still stick to it as a general rule.
Other things to be aware of and price accordingly are poorly handling cars as the bushings are pricey here and time consuming to put in. Most everything else is available or fixable provided the car is complete. Check out the USA Yahoo Group and TVR Car Club of NA for some local feedback and some members cars forsale. Feel free to email me at blroth@yahoo.com if you have any specific questions etc. Depending on where your at I'd even let you go over mine with a fine tooth comb so you can see the good, the bad and the ugly. All TVRs at this point contain a mix as the newest one here is about 25 years old.
So far it seems I'm one of the young and dumb stateside 280i owners who does nearly everything himself and bought nothing but a solid body, amazingly rust free chassis and not much else but it was exactly what I wanted and makes me so happy to climb under it and be able to take nearly any bolt off with a 3/8 ratchet, not a grinding wheel. As with any car buy the best you can or are willing to afford and be honest with yourself about your mechanical abilities or willingness to work on it and your garages willingness to work on an oddball if you won't be doing the work yourself.
As has been said here the Chassis should be the first place to look, especially behind the sills where rust can "hide".
Most other stuff is fixable, being a TVR it's always possible it may have a few electrical gremlins too, which can be annoying to sort.
I have just (well a years or so ago) had my 280i restored after 13 years of previous owner(s) letting it sit doing nothing, did get a bit out of hand with niggles at the start but mostly sorted now and well worth all the time/money (more than I'd expceted but still not as much as it could have been!) and effort.
If you do get it you will enjoy the grin it puts on your face.
Most other stuff is fixable, being a TVR it's always possible it may have a few electrical gremlins too, which can be annoying to sort.
I have just (well a years or so ago) had my 280i restored after 13 years of previous owner(s) letting it sit doing nothing, did get a bit out of hand with niggles at the start but mostly sorted now and well worth all the time/money (more than I'd expceted but still not as much as it could have been!) and effort.
If you do get it you will enjoy the grin it puts on your face.
Thanks for the replies chaps. The car has covered only 28k miles but has covered 18k of them in the past 6 years so the recent usage looks like it has been pretty regular. The current owner has kept the car up pretty well and apparently it won best in class at TVRCCNA event in 2007 and 2008. He had the valve seats hardened in 2007 when a new exhaust was also fitted and the bushings in the rear trailing arms are being done this week. Brake calipers, slave cylinder, water pump and tires have all been replaced relatively recently. A leaking A/C compressor is the only issue that he reports. He says there is some surface rust mixed in with the paint on the frame but it is very sound. My wife's son is a mechanic so I plan to take him along when I go and look and I work for a large main dealership so I have technicians etc.. on hand.
All advice gratefully received!
All advice gratefully received!
It should start hot and cold very easily.
RPMs should drop to 850/900 after a minute or two.
It should drive smoothly in every gear.
If you can tick those boxes then the expensive bits are good
Check for uneven tyre wear.
Condition of frame.
If you want the AC to work, (mech in the family) will cost you about $350 for a compresser, drier and expansion valve. You could maybe deduct that.
After that it is a regular car with regard to purchase inspection.
I would be interested in the asking price as I am selling mine and pricing seems to be all over the place. I saw a decent car fail at $3,500 last fall but a "it ran when I parked it" fetch $5,400. E-mail thru profile if you don't mind sharing the price.
RPMs should drop to 850/900 after a minute or two.
It should drive smoothly in every gear.
If you can tick those boxes then the expensive bits are good
Check for uneven tyre wear.
Condition of frame.
If you want the AC to work, (mech in the family) will cost you about $350 for a compresser, drier and expansion valve. You could maybe deduct that.
After that it is a regular car with regard to purchase inspection.
I would be interested in the asking price as I am selling mine and pricing seems to be all over the place. I saw a decent car fail at $3,500 last fall but a "it ran when I parked it" fetch $5,400. E-mail thru profile if you don't mind sharing the price.
E Ponym said:
But the V8s in Rome were all the sleeved down 2.0 versions with the supercharger for tax reasons.
Yes we know that, but...http://www.stumblerz.com/why-do-we-say-when-in-rom...
grahamw48 said:
Ask your technicians to put a 302 Ford in it. 
.
.
I was gonna put a FI mildly tuned 302 in mine. In fact I have the engine, computer and tranny sitting in the garage but then the new Mustang 3.7l came out.
300hp, 305lbs/ft of torque
6 speed tranny
Solid guess on weight comparison should put me 250ish pounds lighter than a 302 and 200ish less than the 2.8. It is smaller outside dimensions so no cutting is needed and will actuall sit back about an inch further.
Only thing that isn't to love is still waiting for a plug and play stand alone system and all the rustang girls who buy the 6 to have some accidents.
Nothing yet, that was the plan for this past winter, rebuild and mildly upgrade it with aluminum heads, cam etc. Goal was to keep it around 300hp but make it rev a bit. I don't think the chasis without the a frame rear would like too much more than that. Could probably put it in as is but wanted the weight savings of aluminum heads so things tend to spiral when you take a motor apart.
At this point I'm just holding a little bit to wait for a stand alone system to come out for the 3.7l. I could be in possession of America's fastest 280i or 370i I suppose and also the Taz with the best mileage if the claims for the stang of 31mpg are true, I'd suspect it could push 35mpg in a car weighing a couple hundred pounds within half as mustang.
At this point I'm just holding a little bit to wait for a stand alone system to come out for the 3.7l. I could be in possession of America's fastest 280i or 370i I suppose and also the Taz with the best mileage if the claims for the stang of 31mpg are true, I'd suspect it could push 35mpg in a car weighing a couple hundred pounds within half as mustang.
I drove the car. It is in excellent condition, very sound underneath as well as very clean inside and out. The steering is incredibly heavy, is that normal? Also the change from 2nd to 3rd is a little notchy, which surprised me for a Ford gearbox but it maybe because I am a little out of practice with a manual. 
Seems that you have found a nice example.
Steering on a manual is heavy at low speeds only, above 30 miles its should light up dramatically and be very precise. Ok, mine is a 350i without power assistance and is really nice to drive once on the move. Don't ask about parking
it.
Not familiar with the ford gearbox, but normally once warm it should be fine. Any history on the clutch? If on its way out could perhaps cause this.
Rob
Steering on a manual is heavy at low speeds only, above 30 miles its should light up dramatically and be very precise. Ok, mine is a 350i without power assistance and is really nice to drive once on the move. Don't ask about parking
it.Not familiar with the ford gearbox, but normally once warm it should be fine. Any history on the clutch? If on its way out could perhaps cause this.
Rob
Ref. the gearbox, perhaps the car has in the past been driven by someone not familiar with a 'stick shift'. 
As on all Ford RWD boxes, change should be slick, not sloppy or baulky, but I think the 5 speeder is the worst of them all.
Perhaps (pray) the clutch just needs adjusting, although on my 4 speeder I did need a new clutch and that ended up being an engine-out job and £500 +.
Some do say that with judicious juggling the engine and box can stay en situ though.
As on all Ford RWD boxes, change should be slick, not sloppy or baulky, but I think the 5 speeder is the worst of them all.
Perhaps (pray) the clutch just needs adjusting, although on my 4 speeder I did need a new clutch and that ended up being an engine-out job and £500 +.
Some do say that with judicious juggling the engine and box can stay en situ though.
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