Focus Rs Mark1
Discussion
Morning People.
I have long been a fan of ford focus's and have owned 3. Mark 1 CL, Mark 3 ST 2.5l, and the latest RS.
I now have a Range Rover Sport, but still hanker for for some front wheel drive madness and i'm always loved the way the RS mark 1 looks. I'm looking to get one as a second car, total factory standard. any tips or things to look out for??
Also whats it like to drive compared to the latest RS?
thanks in advance.
I have long been a fan of ford focus's and have owned 3. Mark 1 CL, Mark 3 ST 2.5l, and the latest RS.
I now have a Range Rover Sport, but still hanker for for some front wheel drive madness and i'm always loved the way the RS mark 1 looks. I'm looking to get one as a second car, total factory standard. any tips or things to look out for??
Also whats it like to drive compared to the latest RS?
thanks in advance.
Things to look out for mmmm. Well for me if I was buying std I would want low miles, fully documented, FSH and clean and tidy to look at. There are a lot of dogs out there now and very few tidy low mile examples. A lot have been chaved within a inch of there lives by, well, "chavs"
If it is a low miler, i.e. 20- 40k it should be very clean and tidy. Mine is 40k and its spotless (well i think it is) Others have commented on how clean it is.
Another thing to look for if possible is the stitched seat bases, pink throttle grommet and sticker around the starter button saying engine start.
When you drive it, should feel tight and tort. No suspension knocking or banging, no rattles. Look for smoke on the over run and start up. Ask the seller what fuel he uses in it, should be 98 ron. Make sure the gear change from 2nd to 3rd doesn't notch, mine does this, not a problem, but better to not have it!
Look to see what tyres are on it, if there crappy 50pence tyres then it shows that the seller has skimped. Should be top spec tyres, tyres will make all the difference on a car like that.
Make sure the RS wallet, RS Matts and the RS brochure is present, if the seller is genuine they will have these. Should be two keys, two thatcham alarm key fobs too.
There prob is more but thats all I can think of at the mo.
Anything else send me a PM and ill do my best to answer your questions.
Go on the RS owners club and have a look on there, lots of nice examples which are well known cars on there for sale....
CheeRS
Andy
If it is a low miler, i.e. 20- 40k it should be very clean and tidy. Mine is 40k and its spotless (well i think it is) Others have commented on how clean it is.
Another thing to look for if possible is the stitched seat bases, pink throttle grommet and sticker around the starter button saying engine start.
When you drive it, should feel tight and tort. No suspension knocking or banging, no rattles. Look for smoke on the over run and start up. Ask the seller what fuel he uses in it, should be 98 ron. Make sure the gear change from 2nd to 3rd doesn't notch, mine does this, not a problem, but better to not have it!
Look to see what tyres are on it, if there crappy 50pence tyres then it shows that the seller has skimped. Should be top spec tyres, tyres will make all the difference on a car like that.
Make sure the RS wallet, RS Matts and the RS brochure is present, if the seller is genuine they will have these. Should be two keys, two thatcham alarm key fobs too.
There prob is more but thats all I can think of at the mo.
Anything else send me a PM and ill do my best to answer your questions.
Go on the RS owners club and have a look on there, lots of nice examples which are well known cars on there for sale....
CheeRS
Andy
As stated there are a lot of threads relating to this 
Ive had mine for 6yrs+ now & have covered more miles than most in one (@60k to date) the main things to be worried about are rust (rear arches, sills where they meet the side skirts, front wings where they meet the bumper & doors the very bottom & just under the mirror) the chargecooler pump (take lid of resovoir bottle should be a constant jet of water while engine running) everything else is just the normal wear & tear stuff unusaul noises, smoke etc.
They are one of Fords best (ive owned a few to compare!!
) & will easily out handle a lot of other machinery, in stock form they are not that quick by todays standard but they are easily upgraded with a remap decat & air filter mine made 265bhp (some make up to 230bhp stock though) & with a few other bits ive been running over 300bhp for over a year now with no problems (touches wood)
Ive had mine for 6yrs+ now & have covered more miles than most in one (@60k to date) the main things to be worried about are rust (rear arches, sills where they meet the side skirts, front wings where they meet the bumper & doors the very bottom & just under the mirror) the chargecooler pump (take lid of resovoir bottle should be a constant jet of water while engine running) everything else is just the normal wear & tear stuff unusaul noises, smoke etc.
They are one of Fords best (ive owned a few to compare!!
) & will easily out handle a lot of other machinery, in stock form they are not that quick by todays standard but they are easily upgraded with a remap decat & air filter mine made 265bhp (some make up to 230bhp stock though) & with a few other bits ive been running over 300bhp for over a year now with no problems (touches wood) A comparison for the latest RS....
Went out in a new one then jumped straight back in my car, and felt disappointed at how slow it was
Don't think the handling is that different though TBH, I didn't get to drive the MK2 so can't comment on feel etc
They do handle like they are on rails though aslong as you have decent tyres and are aware of the torquesteer
Check if the chargecooler pump is working by taking hte filler cap off for the chargecooler while its running, check for a small jet of water coming out
How badly worn the steering wheel is, the blue tends to fade
How worn the RS mats are, about £60-120 to replace with second hand ones
RS leather wallets are also quite pricey to replace
Check for atmospheric dumpvalve, these can cause alot of idling/stalling problems
Also theres a pipe running along the front of the car just behind the grills, infront of the rad, check for corrosion at the hangers, its a bugger to get hold of a replacement
Went out in a new one then jumped straight back in my car, and felt disappointed at how slow it was
Don't think the handling is that different though TBH, I didn't get to drive the MK2 so can't comment on feel etc
They do handle like they are on rails though aslong as you have decent tyres and are aware of the torquesteer
Check if the chargecooler pump is working by taking hte filler cap off for the chargecooler while its running, check for a small jet of water coming out
How badly worn the steering wheel is, the blue tends to fade
How worn the RS mats are, about £60-120 to replace with second hand ones
RS leather wallets are also quite pricey to replace
Check for atmospheric dumpvalve, these can cause alot of idling/stalling problems
Also theres a pipe running along the front of the car just behind the grills, infront of the rad, check for corrosion at the hangers, its a bugger to get hold of a replacement
Just what I needed. Going to be in the market for one after Xmas. Preferably 50k miles or there about with the mods I want.
What's best sort of set up for 300hp? From what I've seen decat, forge actuator, whats best remap? Bluefin or...
Many thanks will be watching this thread for advice.
What's best sort of set up for 300hp? From what I've seen decat, forge actuator, whats best remap? Bluefin or...
Many thanks will be watching this thread for advice.
) mods are dreamscience remap, decat, turbo technics hybrid, forge actuator, k&n gen2 kit, blueflame manifold & airtec charge cooler uograde so 300 is very easily achievable but there is mire than one way of doing it & it's possible on the stock turbo AMST09 said:
A comparison for the latest RS....
Went out in a new one then jumped straight back in my car, and felt disappointed at how slow it was
Don't think the handling is that different though TBH, I didn't get to drive the MK2 so can't comment on feel etc
They do handle like they are on rails though aslong as you have decent tyres and are aware of the torquesteer
Check if the chargecooler pump is working by taking hte filler cap off for the chargecooler while its running, check for a small jet of water coming out
How badly worn the steering wheel is, the blue tends to fade
How worn the RS mats are, about £60-120 to replace with second hand ones
RS leather wallets are also quite pricey to replace
Check for atmospheric dumpvalve, these can cause alot of idling/stalling problems
Also theres a pipe running along the front of the car just behind the grills, infront of the rad, check for corrosion at the hangers, its a bugger to get hold of a replacement
Not sure what your saying at the start? How are you comparing the Mrk 1 Rs to the Mrk2 2.5 rs if you havent driven onE?Went out in a new one then jumped straight back in my car, and felt disappointed at how slow it was
Don't think the handling is that different though TBH, I didn't get to drive the MK2 so can't comment on feel etc
They do handle like they are on rails though aslong as you have decent tyres and are aware of the torquesteer
Check if the chargecooler pump is working by taking hte filler cap off for the chargecooler while its running, check for a small jet of water coming out
How badly worn the steering wheel is, the blue tends to fade
How worn the RS mats are, about £60-120 to replace with second hand ones
RS leather wallets are also quite pricey to replace
Check for atmospheric dumpvalve, these can cause alot of idling/stalling problems
Also theres a pipe running along the front of the car just behind the grills, infront of the rad, check for corrosion at the hangers, its a bugger to get hold of a replacement
rb5er said:
How is giving it sn extra 90bhp ruining it? I suppose manufacturers ruin cars too by providing faster versions or offering upgrades such as mountune.?
Ok let me partially retract that statement. tuning up car's is like plastic surgery, sometimes it looks amazing and works a treat! and other times its a right balls up!i owned a mk1 rs for 3 years which only had a super chip remap and the continual torque steer when driven hard really spoilt the car ,if you can run to it go for the mk2 rs(IN BLUE) you 300bhp to start with and only very mild tourqe steer ,recently had the mp350 conversion done on my car even with that there is less torque steer than a standard mk1,
cheeRS
phil
cheeRS
phil
tyeo86 said:
Ok let me partially retract that statement. tuning up car's is like plastic surgery, sometimes it looks amazing and works a treat! and other times its a right balls up!
But the people you were commenting on ruining their cars in this thread are only fitting tried and tested bolt on performance parts, hardly something that can be a balls up.With over 300 bhp I have no issues with torque steer nor have I since I've owned it (bought stock) there are cars that do torque steer but every time it's been stopped with either different tyres (the stock fit pilot sport 1 michelins seemed to amplify it) or bad geo which more than one cane from the factory with it incorrect.
I've driven a standard mk2 & one with a mp350 kit on it while very nice neither gave me the enjoyment that my mk1 does.
For the record my car is totally stock on the outside.
I've driven a standard mk2 & one with a mp350 kit on it while very nice neither gave me the enjoyment that my mk1 does.
For the record my car is totally stock on the outside.
Phil1958 said:
i owned a mk1 rs for 3 years which only had a super chip remap and the continual torque steer when driven hard really spoilt the car ,if you can run to it go for the mk2 rs(IN BLUE) you 300bhp to start with and only very mild tourqe steer ,recently had the mp350 conversion done on my car even with that there is less torque steer than a standard mk1,
cheeRS
phil
Hey Phil,cheeRS
phil
I had a Mrk 2 in white great car. i wanna go retro
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