MORE brake problems. Part 2. Becoming a genuine P.I.T.A
Discussion
Mark IV Fiesta
Story so far, but isn't needed to be able to help with latest development.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Ended up deciding to put new shoes on the rears. Found that there wasn't much of a lip on the hubs, if any, so was able to manually adjust the shoes adjuster so I had a little drag on the hubs. Both hubs span just fine, if not with a little drag.
Instantly found I had a good handbrake, with no more than 4/5 clicks needed on the handbrake lever. The pedal was harder than it had been before. Not solid at the top, but was a big improvement on before and was good enough. I expect what pedal travel there is left could be down to needing new front discs and pads. But that's another job for another day.
The car was due it's MOT at 12 noon today. Drove there just fine.
Result came back as another fail. Said the near side rear brake is binding at 77%. Can nothing go straight forward?
OK, though all I need to do is back off that particular adjuster a little. Little did I realise what 77% binding means!
Drove home with a catching sound coming from nearside rear wheel. Jacked up car and was able to spin the drivers side rear wheel just fine.
The near side rear wheel wouldn't budge an inch, plus the Alloy was hot to touch. And the hub was hotter still, being too hot to touch for long. It was only a 2 mile drive back too. The hub wouldn't turn at all.
It defiantly didn't go in like that and there was no catching sound from any wheels on the drive there. The hubs span just fine.
Handbrake balancing plate looks ok with some free play with the handbrake off. So it doesn't look like it's anything caused by the new cable. Plus the drivers side rear wheel spins just fine.
I've let it cool for 4 hours now and am going to try and take the hub off. But a pre-inspection doesn't look good.
Any ideas what could have happened/caused it?
I replaced both rear handbrakes cables a few days ago and both fitted well. The new rear shoes went on this morning, just before the MOT.
Have the MOT been a bit heavy handed/questionable about something or do you think it's something else?
Thoughts please. Could do with the help. Thanks.
Story so far, but isn't needed to be able to help with latest development.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Ended up deciding to put new shoes on the rears. Found that there wasn't much of a lip on the hubs, if any, so was able to manually adjust the shoes adjuster so I had a little drag on the hubs. Both hubs span just fine, if not with a little drag.
Instantly found I had a good handbrake, with no more than 4/5 clicks needed on the handbrake lever. The pedal was harder than it had been before. Not solid at the top, but was a big improvement on before and was good enough. I expect what pedal travel there is left could be down to needing new front discs and pads. But that's another job for another day.
The car was due it's MOT at 12 noon today. Drove there just fine.
Result came back as another fail. Said the near side rear brake is binding at 77%. Can nothing go straight forward?
OK, though all I need to do is back off that particular adjuster a little. Little did I realise what 77% binding means!
Drove home with a catching sound coming from nearside rear wheel. Jacked up car and was able to spin the drivers side rear wheel just fine.
The near side rear wheel wouldn't budge an inch, plus the Alloy was hot to touch. And the hub was hotter still, being too hot to touch for long. It was only a 2 mile drive back too. The hub wouldn't turn at all.
It defiantly didn't go in like that and there was no catching sound from any wheels on the drive there. The hubs span just fine.
Handbrake balancing plate looks ok with some free play with the handbrake off. So it doesn't look like it's anything caused by the new cable. Plus the drivers side rear wheel spins just fine.
I've let it cool for 4 hours now and am going to try and take the hub off. But a pre-inspection doesn't look good.
Any ideas what could have happened/caused it?
I replaced both rear handbrakes cables a few days ago and both fitted well. The new rear shoes went on this morning, just before the MOT.
Have the MOT been a bit heavy handed/questionable about something or do you think it's something else?
Thoughts please. Could do with the help. Thanks.
Edited by jimsayshi on Saturday 24th March 17:33
Update. After much elbow grease and improvised crowbars, I got the hub off. All looks ok inside. No piston issues or stuck handbrake cable arm on the rear shoe.
Have backed off the sticking shoes adjuster to the same adjuster settings/number of teeth showing, as on the ok shoe.
Have noticed that the none sticky shoes adjuster backed off it's teeth a little more than where I had set it at. The sticky side hadn't. That one was still on the manually adjusted settings.
Has made me question the advice about manually adjusting new shoes before you put the drums back on.
But I'm also perplexed on how the drum went on at the manually adjusted settings, only for it to then stick at what appears to be those same settings!!! Well, when it came off, from memory it looked it anyway.
But before I go for the lesser teeth settings, and take it for a spin, does anyone know anything that I might have missed?
Have backed off the sticking shoes adjuster to the same adjuster settings/number of teeth showing, as on the ok shoe.
Have noticed that the none sticky shoes adjuster backed off it's teeth a little more than where I had set it at. The sticky side hadn't. That one was still on the manually adjusted settings.
Has made me question the advice about manually adjusting new shoes before you put the drums back on.
But I'm also perplexed on how the drum went on at the manually adjusted settings, only for it to then stick at what appears to be those same settings!!! Well, when it came off, from memory it looked it anyway.
But before I go for the lesser teeth settings, and take it for a spin, does anyone know anything that I might have missed?
Edited by jimsayshi on Saturday 24th March 18:36
Went with the lessee teeth settings and took it for a spin. I'm not sure the brake pedal is quite as good as before, but if it isn't there isn't much in it. But I now have a handbrake that needs 6/7 clicks on it and even then I don't have a great deal of confidence in it. The lever adjuster nut that shortens the thread on the lever is threaded to the point where the cable is flush to the top of the nut. Would you recommend turning the nut more, to the point I've got 10 mm or so thread past the top of the nut? Resaon I ask is that I'm not sure if this would end up with the shoes rubbing the drums and by the looks of the old shoes, giving me extra / uneven shoe wear, just at the top of the shoes. Anyone?
sounds like the shoes were adjusted too far on the one side to me, only takes 1 tooth on the serated section to do it on the fiestas too 
i usually do the same as you and manually set the shoes so the drum fits over and turns with as close to a slight drag/free wheeling as possible.
are the handbrake arms sitting all the way back in the stops on the shoes? usually wind the cable adjuster so that either handbrake arm is just at the point of moving away from its stop, and find that gives the best handbrake feel
i usually do the same as you and manually set the shoes so the drum fits over and turns with as close to a slight drag/free wheeling as possible.
are the handbrake arms sitting all the way back in the stops on the shoes? usually wind the cable adjuster so that either handbrake arm is just at the point of moving away from its stop, and find that gives the best handbrake feel
Gassing Station | Ford | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff