Ka top hat clamp plates - is this right?
Discussion
I recently picked up a 2004 Duratec with 45K miles. Decent, clean example.
The steering IMO feels heavy, so in searching around I ended up plus gassing the column UJ and squirting another 2 psi in the tyres which has helped, but I still feel is not quite right...
But - in looking around I found a gap between the top hat under the top of the damper and the bulk head fixing plate - see pic. Is this right??
Cheers
The steering IMO feels heavy, so in searching around I ended up plus gassing the column UJ and squirting another 2 psi in the tyres which has helped, but I still feel is not quite right...
But - in looking around I found a gap between the top hat under the top of the damper and the bulk head fixing plate - see pic. Is this right??
Cheers
Did some research on that 4 years ago!
Cutting long story short(er).....
Made the mistake of going for 1/2 price MOT at a VW dealership. Failed on "play on top of stut" which the station wouldn't enter any discussion about. Ok now for some investigation (gen 28k miles car). Dropped the strut to find the top rubber on the strut (hidden under strut tower could have passed for brand new! so not all squashed as could have been the case (In fact the rubber is very rigid and not very thick to start with). Called local Ford dealer who said it needed said rubber, so I asked if that cured it and he just said "we pass them at MOT if they have the new part" so my suspicion was raised.
Now to the local motor factor to see the strut top rubber (dealer didn't have one!). Factor man said "yours looks perfect", what's the problem?... "Oh they're all like that, they should have passed it". Next had a look at it, and deduced the 'play' could be removed by grinding about 8mm off the tulip shaped washer that fits on the top.
Next called a different Ford main dealer, who said "they're all like that, they should have passed it, but I usually just grind about 10mm off the washer that fits on the top.
So, unable to go any other route, I ground a bit off the washers, and job was a good-un.
When I subsequently spoke with a friend who used to work in Ford (on R&D) he said it could be a prob they had found whereby a plastic (nylon?) spacer on the strut would compress if the (in)correct frequency of vibration was present. It could do it in seconds, and with a brand new part apparently. So we have the POTHOLES to blame. Anyway you now know what to do if it fails MOT
Cutting long story short(er).....
Made the mistake of going for 1/2 price MOT at a VW dealership. Failed on "play on top of stut" which the station wouldn't enter any discussion about. Ok now for some investigation (gen 28k miles car). Dropped the strut to find the top rubber on the strut (hidden under strut tower could have passed for brand new! so not all squashed as could have been the case (In fact the rubber is very rigid and not very thick to start with). Called local Ford dealer who said it needed said rubber, so I asked if that cured it and he just said "we pass them at MOT if they have the new part" so my suspicion was raised.
Now to the local motor factor to see the strut top rubber (dealer didn't have one!). Factor man said "yours looks perfect", what's the problem?... "Oh they're all like that, they should have passed it". Next had a look at it, and deduced the 'play' could be removed by grinding about 8mm off the tulip shaped washer that fits on the top.
Next called a different Ford main dealer, who said "they're all like that, they should have passed it, but I usually just grind about 10mm off the washer that fits on the top.
So, unable to go any other route, I ground a bit off the washers, and job was a good-un.
When I subsequently spoke with a friend who used to work in Ford (on R&D) he said it could be a prob they had found whereby a plastic (nylon?) spacer on the strut would compress if the (in)correct frequency of vibration was present. It could do it in seconds, and with a brand new part apparently. So we have the POTHOLES to blame. Anyway you now know what to do if it fails MOT
Wandering steering doesn't sound correct. When you say the top of the strut moves, does it rotate?
The nut or rubber shouldn't rotate when the steering is turned, however (and on other cars) there will be some movement of the tops when the steering is turned - for want of a better description they'll 'wiggle'
This is normal - It is a compliance rubber, designed to have movement.
The nut or rubber shouldn't rotate when the steering is turned, however (and on other cars) there will be some movement of the tops when the steering is turned - for want of a better description they'll 'wiggle'
This is normal - It is a compliance rubber, designed to have movement.
Fastpedeller said:
Wandering steering doesn't sound correct. When you say the top of the strut moves, does it rotate?
The nut or rubber shouldn't rotate when the steering is turned, however (and on other cars) there will be some movement of the tops when the steering is turned - for want of a better description they'll 'wiggle'
This is normal - It is a compliance rubber, designed to have movement.
Thanks for coming in - no, the rubber/nut does not rotate. There is a slight wiggle though as you say. The nut or rubber shouldn't rotate when the steering is turned, however (and on other cars) there will be some movement of the tops when the steering is turned - for want of a better description they'll 'wiggle'
This is normal - It is a compliance rubber, designed to have movement.
There was rotation (rubber & nut) when I had the front jacked up and the wheels off the ground. I was trying to find where the stiffness is coming from - the steering is still stiff when wheels raised. I plus gassed the column's UJ which doesn't seem to have done much
What I'd try in the first instance with the car off the ground is to put the steering straight, and get both track rod ends out of the steering arms (just take off nuts and using the correct tool get the tapers to release). That way you haven't disturbed the setting of the rod ends on the rods, so the tracking will be retained when you out them back. Then you can rotate each strut and see if either is tight - if neither then it's an issue with the rack (be it manual or PAS). Less likely a track rod end may be tight (very unlikely as if anything they go loose). Hope that helps.
Fastpedeller said:
What I'd try in the first instance with the car off the ground is to put the steering straight, and get both track rod ends out of the steering arms (just take off nuts and using the correct tool get the tapers to release). That way you haven't disturbed the setting of the rod ends on the rods, so the tracking will be retained when you out them back. Then you can rotate each strut and see if either is tight - if neither then it's an issue with the rack (be it manual or PAS). Less likely a track rod end may be tight (very unlikely as if anything they go loose). Hope that helps.
Yes, that helps alot. I was aying to someone today splitting track rods seems the surest way. I have ball jt splitter. I don't think the wheels even need removing ;-) to do that. I'll have a go the weekend weather permittingGassing Station | Ford | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff