Discussion
Water pump failure is common (at 70K and 75K on the two I've had), and if it gets too hot then the heads warp, leading to later head gasket failure. Might be worth asking if it's been changed, and if not then replace it when you can.
The 10k oil change interval always feels a bit long to me, but even a higher mileage engine should still be smooth and quiet at high revs. Check for an increase in power above 4000rpm - if it feels sluggish then suspect IMRC failure (Google it).
Other than that, the only recurring issues I've had are bushes and wheel alignment.
The 10k oil change interval always feels a bit long to me, but even a higher mileage engine should still be smooth and quiet at high revs. Check for an increase in power above 4000rpm - if it feels sluggish then suspect IMRC failure (Google it).
Other than that, the only recurring issues I've had are bushes and wheel alignment.
I bought one and hated it, but then mine was a '97 (and a complete dog!).
Nice and comfy inside, big boot and reasonable performance, but it was a money pit! I had it on the road for just under a year and at it's first service (just out of warranty I might add), the nice man from the Ford dealer phoned me up to ask if I'd really been driving it in that state because my front springs had broken, my rear discs and pads were shot and I needed to find about £700!
I took to parking it with bricks under the front wheels because the handbrake was unreliable and it would roll off the drive into the street whilst I was at work...
Still, if you find a good one then go for it - just don't be tempted by a 1997 model in green whose reg. starts with R766!
Nice and comfy inside, big boot and reasonable performance, but it was a money pit! I had it on the road for just under a year and at it's first service (just out of warranty I might add), the nice man from the Ford dealer phoned me up to ask if I'd really been driving it in that state because my front springs had broken, my rear discs and pads were shot and I needed to find about £700!
I took to parking it with bricks under the front wheels because the handbrake was unreliable and it would roll off the drive into the street whilst I was at work...
Still, if you find a good one then go for it - just don't be tempted by a 1997 model in green whose reg. starts with R766!
If the history doesn't show a water pump change, budget for it. Use an aftermarket one, they use metal impellers. The genuine ones use plastic. The plastic breaks up, you run with no water pump, you warp the heads etc etc. Not a difficult job to undertake either.
Just make sure the timing chain is quiet and that it pulls smoothly. If you feel flat spots, it could be the variable intake manifold control box (mounted on the front rocker cover) is playing up. They can be overhauled and relocated to reduce heat transfer (as that's what stuff's them!) Otherwise you should feel a noticable kick at 3.5k rpm when the secondaries open up.
If you find it fast idles when approaching junctions, it's usually a very cheap and easy fix, involving the hoses on the intake side.
Best bet is to head over to www.fordmondeo.org for more info. I'm a newbie, only just got an ST200 half a year ago, but enjoying the car still! That forum is a wealth of knowledge....possibly more than any other forum for any other brand of car I've owned. They're not afraid to get stuck in and theres not much they don't know!
Just make sure the timing chain is quiet and that it pulls smoothly. If you feel flat spots, it could be the variable intake manifold control box (mounted on the front rocker cover) is playing up. They can be overhauled and relocated to reduce heat transfer (as that's what stuff's them!) Otherwise you should feel a noticable kick at 3.5k rpm when the secondaries open up.
If you find it fast idles when approaching junctions, it's usually a very cheap and easy fix, involving the hoses on the intake side.
Best bet is to head over to www.fordmondeo.org for more info. I'm a newbie, only just got an ST200 half a year ago, but enjoying the car still! That forum is a wealth of knowledge....possibly more than any other forum for any other brand of car I've owned. They're not afraid to get stuck in and theres not much they don't know!
I think it's a good car.
I had a Ghia X V6 for a year, pounded 40k miles onto it, and loved it. Swift enough, comfortable, fully loaded with toys and very reliable.
As well as Water pump (which is easy to change and the aftermarket one is 1/2 the price of the ford unit, and less susceptible to failure) bushes in the alternator wear, so check the battery light doesn't come on at High RPM. I didn't spot it on my test drive, and it cost me. Neither did the AA car check, who later denied the fault was there at the time of the check.
I had a Ghia X V6 for a year, pounded 40k miles onto it, and loved it. Swift enough, comfortable, fully loaded with toys and very reliable.
As well as Water pump (which is easy to change and the aftermarket one is 1/2 the price of the ford unit, and less susceptible to failure) bushes in the alternator wear, so check the battery light doesn't come on at High RPM. I didn't spot it on my test drive, and it cost me. Neither did the AA car check, who later denied the fault was there at the time of the check.
I liked mine, But the clutch wasn't quite right - took effort to drive it smoothly.
Also had flickering lights, was some sort of alternator problem but a new alt didn't fix it - so it went.
Apart from that, I thought it was good fun to drive for a standard car. And with an ST200 airbox mine made 172bhp and 170lb/ft
Also had flickering lights, was some sort of alternator problem but a new alt didn't fix it - so it went.
Apart from that, I thought it was good fun to drive for a standard car. And with an ST200 airbox mine made 172bhp and 170lb/ft
As others have said, check the water pump has been replaced.
When driving give it some beans and you should feel the IRMC open around 4000rpm (giving a bit of a kick), if not, that may need replacing.
Make sure at high revs that the battery light doesn't comes on (4000rmp+) as that's a sign the alternator is on the way out.
The lights flickering are a known problem, and easily resolved... there's a bit of resistence on the alternator plug, so an additional wire is required (I have the details if required).
Check the front footwells and the boot for water ingress... real pain to fix.
Turn on the front heated screen, even if there is nothing to clear - if it mists up in places, you know where it doesn't work...
Check all the electrics work, especially the electric seat height adjustment on the drivers seat (if fitted) as the cogs are plastic and break... and a replacement comes complete with motor, so will cost three figures.
If the budget will stretch, look out for an ST200 - it's worth the extra.
When driving give it some beans and you should feel the IRMC open around 4000rpm (giving a bit of a kick), if not, that may need replacing.
Make sure at high revs that the battery light doesn't comes on (4000rmp+) as that's a sign the alternator is on the way out.
The lights flickering are a known problem, and easily resolved... there's a bit of resistence on the alternator plug, so an additional wire is required (I have the details if required).
Check the front footwells and the boot for water ingress... real pain to fix.
Turn on the front heated screen, even if there is nothing to clear - if it mists up in places, you know where it doesn't work...
Check all the electrics work, especially the electric seat height adjustment on the drivers seat (if fitted) as the cogs are plastic and break... and a replacement comes complete with motor, so will cost three figures.
If the budget will stretch, look out for an ST200 - it's worth the extra.
Edited by Podie on Tuesday 19th January 12:45
Gassing Station | Ford | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff