Dreaded manifold problem - question about removing pipe
Discussion
Hi all,
I purchased myself a 2003 (53) Ford Mondeo 2.0 LX yesterday with 56k miles on the clock. On getting it home I heard a rattling/tapping noise from the engine, and from doing some research it appears I've got the dreaded inlet manifold problem (I removed the vacuum pipe and rattling stopped, replaced pipe and it started up again).
I've been onto the garage and they've asked that I take it in tomorrow to have it repaired (which I'm a bit concerned about doing as its a 45 minute drive, in which time could knacker the engine from what I've read, however they've accepted responsibility if this happens).
I'm not happy about having to go several days without the car I paid £4k for yesterday, and not happy that they can't do anything with it until tomorrow. However, I've just been advised by the mechanic at the garage who carry out the repairs for the car sales that if I remove the vacuum pipe that controls the butterfly valves, then block the hole up with something like a bolt, then I will be able to drive the car without risking damaging the engine - is this true? Would I also need to block the pipe itself? Am I looking at causing more trouble by doing this, or should it get me by until tomorrow?
I can't believe I replaced by Vectra 2.2 CD which had an issue early on with timing chains snapping with a Mondeo that has problems with the manifold. I don't half pick 'em.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
I purchased myself a 2003 (53) Ford Mondeo 2.0 LX yesterday with 56k miles on the clock. On getting it home I heard a rattling/tapping noise from the engine, and from doing some research it appears I've got the dreaded inlet manifold problem (I removed the vacuum pipe and rattling stopped, replaced pipe and it started up again).
I've been onto the garage and they've asked that I take it in tomorrow to have it repaired (which I'm a bit concerned about doing as its a 45 minute drive, in which time could knacker the engine from what I've read, however they've accepted responsibility if this happens).
I'm not happy about having to go several days without the car I paid £4k for yesterday, and not happy that they can't do anything with it until tomorrow. However, I've just been advised by the mechanic at the garage who carry out the repairs for the car sales that if I remove the vacuum pipe that controls the butterfly valves, then block the hole up with something like a bolt, then I will be able to drive the car without risking damaging the engine - is this true? Would I also need to block the pipe itself? Am I looking at causing more trouble by doing this, or should it get me by until tomorrow?
I can't believe I replaced by Vectra 2.2 CD which had an issue early on with timing chains snapping with a Mondeo that has problems with the manifold. I don't half pick 'em.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
You would have to block both holes to prevent an air leak that would make the car run rough.
Tbh as for damaging the engine you are right that if the flaps break it can enter the engine & knacker it but i have seen them rattle for a long time before this happens.
Trouble you have is you dont know how long they have been doing it for!!
Tbh if the garage has accepted that they are willing to repair the car if they do break /7 enter the engine then it is them taking the chance instead of you.
Tbh as for damaging the engine you are right that if the flaps break it can enter the engine & knacker it but i have seen them rattle for a long time before this happens.
Trouble you have is you dont know how long they have been doing it for!!
Tbh if the garage has accepted that they are willing to repair the car if they do break /7 enter the engine then it is them taking the chance instead of you.
Sorry for not coming to say thanks earlier, forgot I'd posted, but better late than never so thanks for the replies 
A lot has happened since the above, but to summarise I took it back, they replaced manifold, but rattle was still there when I got home. Took it back again to give them second chance to fix it, they replaced aux tensioner which did fix the rattle. However, I also mentioned 3 other problems, these being a loud tapping when driving 45mph+ (worse when steering left even very slightly), boot lid not closing every time (takes several attempts on occasions), and alarm not appearing to arm sometimes, other times going off for no reason. All 3 of these problems still exist (including the alarm going off 4 times during the night on Monday, ended up having to leave the car unlocked). They have refused to repair these things unless I pay.
So basically I sent a letter on Friday 9th July rejecting the car, and asking for a full refund within 7 days before I take legal action. I believe I'm then supposed to send a 2nd letter giving them a further 14 days, then I can take them to court, which could take a while, they'll then give them 28 days to pay (if they find in my favour, which I'm sure they will). All this time I'm going to be without a car (can't drive it as I've rejected it), possibly for up to 4 months (possibly more).
So, I have a second question for all you experts What is the tapping when driving 45mph (or steering left) likely to be? I had a mates garage put it on their ramps briefly, and without taking anything apart they couldn't find the cause - they said the CV boots/joints appear to be fine and wheels feel solid (no play in them), so although they test drove it and found the tapping they don't know what it is. Turning the wheels whilst the car was up didn't reproduce the noise (though as I say it only happens at 45mph+ anyway). The only ways I can describe the noise is like the tappets have gone (but noise doesn't increase with additional speed) or like when as a kid you would (well, I would) stick a piece of cardboard in my cycles spokes to make a noise.
The reason I ask is that I'm considering withdrawing my refund request and just getting it repaired myself if it's likely to be cheap(ish), then try and claim that back. I can't be doing with having no car for 4 months+, so might have to swallow my pride and let them win (unless they do agree to give refund by tomorrow).
Thanks in advance.
A lot has happened since the above, but to summarise I took it back, they replaced manifold, but rattle was still there when I got home. Took it back again to give them second chance to fix it, they replaced aux tensioner which did fix the rattle. However, I also mentioned 3 other problems, these being a loud tapping when driving 45mph+ (worse when steering left even very slightly), boot lid not closing every time (takes several attempts on occasions), and alarm not appearing to arm sometimes, other times going off for no reason. All 3 of these problems still exist (including the alarm going off 4 times during the night on Monday, ended up having to leave the car unlocked). They have refused to repair these things unless I pay.
So basically I sent a letter on Friday 9th July rejecting the car, and asking for a full refund within 7 days before I take legal action. I believe I'm then supposed to send a 2nd letter giving them a further 14 days, then I can take them to court, which could take a while, they'll then give them 28 days to pay (if they find in my favour, which I'm sure they will). All this time I'm going to be without a car (can't drive it as I've rejected it), possibly for up to 4 months (possibly more).
So, I have a second question for all you experts
What is the tapping when driving 45mph (or steering left) likely to be? I had a mates garage put it on their ramps briefly, and without taking anything apart they couldn't find the cause - they said the CV boots/joints appear to be fine and wheels feel solid (no play in them), so although they test drove it and found the tapping they don't know what it is. Turning the wheels whilst the car was up didn't reproduce the noise (though as I say it only happens at 45mph+ anyway). The only ways I can describe the noise is like the tappets have gone (but noise doesn't increase with additional speed) or like when as a kid you would (well, I would) stick a piece of cardboard in my cycles spokes to make a noise. The reason I ask is that I'm considering withdrawing my refund request and just getting it repaired myself if it's likely to be cheap(ish), then try and claim that back. I can't be doing with having no car for 4 months+, so might have to swallow my pride and let them win (unless they do agree to give refund by tomorrow).
Thanks in advance.
Found the problem this evening with the tapping - balancing weights on driver side front wheel loose. Stuck some duct tape on them to hold them still and went for a drive and tapping noise was reduced. Removed them altogether, tapping noise gone.
I now feel very, very stupid (though I wasn't to know it wasn't anything serious).
Now just got to fix alarm (possibly the bonnet sensor) and boot (possibly needs adjusting).
Maybe I won't push for that refund afterall.
I now feel very, very stupid
(though I wasn't to know it wasn't anything serious). Now just got to fix alarm (possibly the bonnet sensor) and boot (possibly needs adjusting).
Maybe I won't push for that refund afterall.
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