Puma acceleration issue...
Discussion
Hi guys,
Wonder if any of you could share your wisdom on this one
My mate in work has a 2000 X-Reg Ford Puma.
He's been noticing over the past while that it's not very responsive throttle wise, and can take quite a while to get up to speed...
Today - he's told me that the car is now hardly accelerating, and that it sounds as though it's just revving to the limiter - but there's actually next to nothing happening...
He said there's no noticeable whine or anything from the engine when he's revving it either...
Anyone experienced this before, or have any ideas as to what might be causing the issue?
Not sure if it'll be a loose belt or something?
Any help is appreciated, cheers!
Wonder if any of you could share your wisdom on this one

My mate in work has a 2000 X-Reg Ford Puma.
He's been noticing over the past while that it's not very responsive throttle wise, and can take quite a while to get up to speed...
Today - he's told me that the car is now hardly accelerating, and that it sounds as though it's just revving to the limiter - but there's actually next to nothing happening...
He said there's no noticeable whine or anything from the engine when he's revving it either...
Anyone experienced this before, or have any ideas as to what might be causing the issue?
Not sure if it'll be a loose belt or something?
Any help is appreciated, cheers!
Standard clutch test: Try pulling away in 3rd or 4th. The car should stall. If it doesn't the the clutch is slipping and needs replacing.
Throttle response could be a dirty MAF sensor (oo er missus) - it gradually gets coated over time, and the grime can be removed with an aerosol carb cleaner.
The MAF casing sits prior to the airbox and can be easily removed by undoing the jubilee clip:

The actual sensor (a very thin wire connected between two silver pins) are inside the inner tube. You will notice it is dark due to deposits. A few squirts of carb cleaner will leave the wire silver. Don't squirt too hard as the wire is thin and delicate. Make sure the carb cleaner totally evaportates prior before refitting the MAF housing.

Close up of inner tube. You can see the two silver pins (vertical) and if you're eyes are really good you can see the sensor connected between them:

Throttle response could be a dirty MAF sensor (oo er missus) - it gradually gets coated over time, and the grime can be removed with an aerosol carb cleaner.
The MAF casing sits prior to the airbox and can be easily removed by undoing the jubilee clip:
The actual sensor (a very thin wire connected between two silver pins) are inside the inner tube. You will notice it is dark due to deposits. A few squirts of carb cleaner will leave the wire silver. Don't squirt too hard as the wire is thin and delicate. Make sure the carb cleaner totally evaportates prior before refitting the MAF housing.
Close up of inner tube. You can see the two silver pins (vertical) and if you're eyes are really good you can see the sensor connected between them:
Edited by nammynake on Friday 25th February 22:12
nammynake said:
Standard clutch test: Try pulling away in 3rd or 4th. The car should stall. If it doesn't the the clutch is slipping and needs replacing.
Throttle response could be a dirty MAF sensor (oo er missus) - it gradually gets coated over time, and the grime can be removed with an aerosol carb cleaner.
The MAF casing sits prior to the airbox and can be easily removed by undoing the jubilee clip:

The actual sensor (a very thin wire connected between two silver pins) are inside the inner tube. You will notice it is dark due to deposits. A few squirts of carb cleaner will leave the wire silver. Don't squirt too hard as the wire is thin and delicate. Make sure the carb cleaner totally evaportates prior before refitting the MAF housing.

Close up of inner tube. You can see the two silver pins (vertical) and if you're eyes are really good you can see the sensor connected between them:

Quite possibly the best response I've ever had to a "technical" question on a forum.Throttle response could be a dirty MAF sensor (oo er missus) - it gradually gets coated over time, and the grime can be removed with an aerosol carb cleaner.
The MAF casing sits prior to the airbox and can be easily removed by undoing the jubilee clip:
The actual sensor (a very thin wire connected between two silver pins) are inside the inner tube. You will notice it is dark due to deposits. A few squirts of carb cleaner will leave the wire silver. Don't squirt too hard as the wire is thin and delicate. Make sure the carb cleaner totally evaportates prior before refitting the MAF housing.
Close up of inner tube. You can see the two silver pins (vertical) and if you're eyes are really good you can see the sensor connected between them:
Edited by nammynake on Friday 25th February 22:12
Top man!
Cheers
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