That diff bush
Discussion
First step for me was to make access easier...
(I pop riveted/siliconed a lip around the edge afterwards and then screwed/siliconed in the panel which I'd cut out).
Then, using a suitably sized hole saw (like this) and a right angle adapter for my drill I cut through the rubber part of the bush to remove the inner metal sleeve, then used a hacksaw blade to cut a couple of slots in the outer metal sleeve which I drove out with a hammer and cold chisel.
(I pop riveted/siliconed a lip around the edge afterwards and then screwed/siliconed in the panel which I'd cut out).
Then, using a suitably sized hole saw (like this) and a right angle adapter for my drill I cut through the rubber part of the bush to remove the inner metal sleeve, then used a hacksaw blade to cut a couple of slots in the outer metal sleeve which I drove out with a hammer and cold chisel.
Edited by DarkMatter on Monday 28th November 08:59
.That cut-out panel also makes access to the fuel filter easy, and also gives easy access to the upper fixings where the diff attaches to it's front mounting bracket.
It's a shame that the Griffith 'T' shaped tunnel cover has to be lifted to remove my panel - If I was doing it again I'd consider making the cut out smaller to enable it's removal without disturbing the tunnel cover.
It's a shame that the Griffith 'T' shaped tunnel cover has to be lifted to remove my panel - If I was doing it again I'd consider making the cut out smaller to enable it's removal without disturbing the tunnel cover.
Sharpen the end of a long steel bar to a triangular point and feed the bar in through the rear wheel arch. Position the point between the outer sleeve and the chassis. Bray the end of the bar with a sledge hammer. The triangle point eventually collapses the outer sleeve of the bearing, and if your bar is long enough you don't hit the rear wing with the hammer.
Do as Darkmatter says. This is how i did mine which was hard work even with the body off. I also stripped a couple of high tensile threaded bars trying to wind it out. It wouldnt budge.
After all the hassle of getting it out i would most certainly not put originals back in, just incase you have the unfortunate task of removing it again at some point in the future. The steve heath poly ones just slide staright in and will be easy to remove again in the future.
After all the hassle of getting it out i would most certainly not put originals back in, just incase you have the unfortunate task of removing it again at some point in the future. The steve heath poly ones just slide staright in and will be easy to remove again in the future.
MPETT said:
So is the concensus to cut the bush out and then use a bush void tool to replace the bush, or..... use a poly bush instead of the metalastic? Can one mix and match bushes?
I tried using the void bush tool to fit a new metallastic bush. I got it 75% in but it just wouldn't go any further, I ended up having to cut that one out too. Finally I fitted a poly bush which was extremely easy to do so I'd say that's the way to go. So, I now have a poly bush at the back of the diff and two metallastic bushes at the front and I haven't noticed any problems with this arrangement - mind you there's still a knock from the diff during rapid acceleration gear changes and when going on and off the throttle at low speed which I have assumed is internal play in the diff.Apologies for going off topic here...
haircutmike said:
Try your prop bolts.
They screw into the diff flange and the nuts are there just to lock them.
Some people just tighten the nuts leaving the bolts loose!
Also prop UJ?
I've got the GKN diff and the prop flange is definitely not threaded. I've checked the big flange nut, the prop/flange nuts & bolts, the prop UJs, driveshaft bolts, driveshaft CV joints, and not found any noticeable play anywhere.They screw into the diff flange and the nuts are there just to lock them.
Some people just tighten the nuts leaving the bolts loose!
Also prop UJ?
DarkMatter said:
I've got the GKN diff and the prop flange is definitely not threaded. I've checked the big flange nut, the prop/flange nuts & bolts, the prop UJs, driveshaft bolts, driveshaft CV joints, and not found any noticeable play anywhere.
Just finished removing/refitting the GKN diff on my chim. There is a small bracket on the back of the diff which is attached by four bolts into the diff back cover,and also to the chassis by the "infamous" rear bush. The threads had stripped on 2 of the bolts and under certain load conditions i would get the knocking you describe. A lot of work and one new diff backplate later and all is ok again. Maybe woth checking, Mine looked ok only when i managed to get a spanner on them i found 2 were knackered.Others have removed this small bracket for a more detailed check and some have found hairline cracks in it.TJC46 said:
Just finished removing/refitting the GKN diff on my chim. There is a small bracket on the back of the diff which is attached by four bolts into the diff back cover,and also to the chassis by the "infamous" rear bush. The threads had stripped on 2 of the bolts and under certain load conditions i would get the knocking you describe. A lot of work and one new diff backplate later and all is ok again. Maybe woth checking, Mine looked ok only when i managed to get a spanner on them i found 2 were knackered.Others have removed this small bracket for a more detailed check and some have found hairline cracks in it.
Thanks for the tip. I did check that bracket when I changed the diff bushes but based on your experience I think I'll look at it again before I spend out on a diff rebuild.im just about to change all the bushes as part of a refurb. took the wishbones to a friend with a 80 tonne press...."have them out in a minute' he said......
after crushing some tube we used as supports to push the bushes into, decided i may be better to burn out the centres, and hacksaw the,....
i cant believe how tight they are in there. definately not putting those back in!!
and ive not started on the diff yet,
very interested in the diff mount crack if you have pics. im swapping from gkn to btr, and just about to make the mount, so advice on wht issue youve seen would be good
after crushing some tube we used as supports to push the bushes into, decided i may be better to burn out the centres, and hacksaw the,....
i cant believe how tight they are in there. definately not putting those back in!!
and ive not started on the diff yet,
very interested in the diff mount crack if you have pics. im swapping from gkn to btr, and just about to make the mount, so advice on wht issue youve seen would be good
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