Servicing / reconditioning a BTR Diff - possible DIY job?
Servicing / reconditioning a BTR Diff - possible DIY job?
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Discussion

Robertjp

Original Poster:

2,281 posts

254 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
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My Diff is fine, but considering the idea of buying a used 3.73 ratio diff and reconditioning / servicing myself – the diffs at breakers will have been out in the elements i guess so i wouldn’t like to think what crap may have made its way inside...

Not sure what’s involved though – do you need specialist tooling? Bearing pullers, or tools to separate interference fits etc?

If its cleaning, greasing, gaskets, paint etc then maybe i will have a crack at it...

It may be a no go, but winters here and its something i was mulling over.

I recently spoke to John Reid about doing the job to my diff but at just shy of £1k its not something i can justify at the moment!

SSPPGG

2,120 posts

231 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
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try bernie at CTS....he has done diffs for me at 350, as long as theyre are not buggered

Graham

16,381 posts

313 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
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what did you ask reidy to do! i spoke to him recently about looking at my btr cone diff and he was quoting around 350 to reuild it using the existing cw & pinion. are you sure he didnt quote you for a new diff?

ive had diffs built by reidy and cts and theynare both good.

spongy

2,236 posts

190 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
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Lol had the same idea as you sir,if you look inside diff when backplate is off you will see how easy it will come apart.I checked mine inside and she was fine so i flushed her out,and have now installed her ...waiting for fluids to come nowbiggrin

spongy

2,236 posts

190 months

Wednesday 4th January 2012
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Ps,i think one from a scrap yard would be fine as long as its checked before use.I bought one years back from a breakers and never had an issue with it.

Robertjp

Original Poster:

2,281 posts

254 months

Thursday 5th January 2012
quotequote all
Thanks for the info guys.

Actually i contacted CTS and have been quoted considerably less than John Reid so i cant help but think there has been a misunderstanding – easily done via email.

Talking to a few people i think i would want the bearings changed before i fitted a used one – and once you have done that you then need to pre load correctly – i havent got the kit or skills to do that so CTS / Grantura it would have to be!

Its looking entirely feasible so if nothing gets thrown up in my service i will probably look to get it done as soon as poss....

Brummmie

5,284 posts

250 months

Thursday 5th January 2012
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I did mine myself second time around.
1st time was it was an absolute pig to get the pre load cups out.
7ft long box section, and pulling a vice and bench around the workshop, the diff people couldnt do it, so i had to!!
They then put it together.

I then broke the crown and pinion, so had a go myself, i was using brand new stuff sourced from Grantura, so set all the lashes to near zero, it is now still lovely and clunk free two years later and loads of abuse..

The first CW



Edited by Brummmie on Thursday 5th January 09:25

Robertjp

Original Poster:

2,281 posts

254 months

Thursday 5th January 2012
quotequote all
Brummmie said:
I did mine myself second time around.
1st time was it was an absolute pig to get the pre load cups out.
7ft long box section, and pulling a vice and bench around the workshop, the diff people couldnt do it, so i had to!!
They then put it together.

I then broke the crown and pinion, so had a go myself, i was using brand new stuff sourced from Grantura, so set all the lashes to near zero, it is now still lovely and clunk free two years later and loads of abuse..

The first CW



Edited by Brummmie on Thursday 5th January 09:25
so with the exception of the preload cups how difficult was it to do! Presumably you removed the bearings and transferred , how difficult is it to set preload and what tools do you need?

Brummmie

5,284 posts

250 months

Thursday 5th January 2012
quotequote all
Robertjp said:
Brummmie said:
I did mine myself second time around.
1st time was it was an absolute pig to get the pre load cups out.
7ft long box section, and pulling a vice and bench around the workshop, the diff people couldnt do it, so i had to!!
They then put it together.

I then broke the crown and pinion, so had a go myself, i was using brand new stuff sourced from Grantura, so set all the lashes to near zero, it is now still lovely and clunk free two years later and loads of abuse..

The first CW



Edited by Brummmie on Thursday 5th January 09:25
so with the exception of the preload cups how difficult was it to do! Presumably you removed the bearings and transferred , how difficult is it to set preload and what tools do you need?
Did it all by feel, the crush washer in the nose of the diff, you only get one go, if you crush it too far then thats that..
I did get hold of Torque figures for the drag etc, but didnt have the right equipment, so just went for a "bit" of drag on the pinion.
Then setting the Crown wheel i went for the tightest bit, (there was one) and set this to "just" zero lash feel, if you see what i mean?

When you take it apart, get a feel for the drag on the nose and try and replicate it.

Robertjp

Original Poster:

2,281 posts

254 months

Friday 6th January 2012
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spongy said:

Lol had the same idea as you sir,if you look inside diff when backplate is off you will see how easy it will come apart.I checked mine inside and she was fine so i flushed her out,and have now installed her ...waiting for fluids to come nowbiggrin
Thanks again for the info gents - still not sure im brave enough to do myself knowing that i may put it in and the bearings be shot - not sure how they can be tested properly when not under load. I think i will be happier getting them changed.

Spongy - diff looking great - how did you treat the casing - shotblasted or good old drill with wire brush? what did you use to paint?

spongy

2,236 posts

190 months

Saturday 7th January 2012
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Marine cleaned it first,then wire brush,then sandedsmile.Diff was then rust treated,3 coats of por 15,and then 3 top coats of grey two pack.Back plate was coated in por 15 primer,and then marine paint high gloss top coat x3.hope this helps;)