Newbie warning light & top up coolant query
Discussion
Hi All,
After 11 years of being 'TVRless', after looking at 'T' series cars, then Griffs, I finally bought a 2001 450 Chimera about a month ago (long story), and since then only managed to do about 200 daylight miles. My queries are these please;-
1) Battery warning light - Last night when driving,the battery warning light was showing faintly, I'd not seen this in daylight driving. On start up, red colur symbol oil & battery lights appear, then both go out when car starts. On a well lighted part of the road, I quickly turned headlights off, depressed clutch and revved engine - the faint battery symbol grew brighter when rev's increased, but was still no where near as bright as on start up. Is this a Tvr 'characteristic', or should i get it to a garage? I don't have tools at home so all work will be done be a garage about 5 miles from me. I drove 10 miles home last night 'ok'.
I ask as my daily driver battery warning light came on recently, then I got a low voltage warning, which later mean't a new alternator was req'd!
2) Topping up coolant - My daily driver has a clear plastic coolant tank, you can see level, and just add water & coolant as req'd after taking cap off. Easy to do. The TVR expansion and header tanks are ali, so you can't see level of coolant.
The TVR owners' manual states system should be topped up from the header tank, with bleed plug removed from top right hand corner of radiator. Coolant is to escape until no bubbles are present. Tap top of radiator to remove small bubbles. Bleed plug is to be replaced whilst an 'Assistant'tops up the cooler in the header tank. As I will be on my own, with no 'Assistant' - does this mean a garage will always have to do this?
Many thanks for your help to keep me on the road!
T
After 11 years of being 'TVRless', after looking at 'T' series cars, then Griffs, I finally bought a 2001 450 Chimera about a month ago (long story), and since then only managed to do about 200 daylight miles. My queries are these please;-
1) Battery warning light - Last night when driving,the battery warning light was showing faintly, I'd not seen this in daylight driving. On start up, red colur symbol oil & battery lights appear, then both go out when car starts. On a well lighted part of the road, I quickly turned headlights off, depressed clutch and revved engine - the faint battery symbol grew brighter when rev's increased, but was still no where near as bright as on start up. Is this a Tvr 'characteristic', or should i get it to a garage? I don't have tools at home so all work will be done be a garage about 5 miles from me. I drove 10 miles home last night 'ok'.
I ask as my daily driver battery warning light came on recently, then I got a low voltage warning, which later mean't a new alternator was req'd!
2) Topping up coolant - My daily driver has a clear plastic coolant tank, you can see level, and just add water & coolant as req'd after taking cap off. Easy to do. The TVR expansion and header tanks are ali, so you can't see level of coolant.
The TVR owners' manual states system should be topped up from the header tank, with bleed plug removed from top right hand corner of radiator. Coolant is to escape until no bubbles are present. Tap top of radiator to remove small bubbles. Bleed plug is to be replaced whilst an 'Assistant'tops up the cooler in the header tank. As I will be on my own, with no 'Assistant' - does this mean a garage will always have to do this?
Many thanks for your help to keep me on the road!
T
Typical alternator low charging. Alternator on its way out. Get it tested. Battery should show about 13 volts if alternator is ok. A good local auto electrician can test and perhaps replace the rectifier, for £40 if you are lucky! A new alternator is £100+
No you can top up your self. I think a 14mm spanner for the radiator plug. Sqeeze the rubber pipes to get rid of air when topping up. Check coolant has antifreeze about 50/50.
You should have bought a Griff, ha ha! Good luck.
No you can top up your self. I think a 14mm spanner for the radiator plug. Sqeeze the rubber pipes to get rid of air when topping up. Check coolant has antifreeze about 50/50.
You should have bought a Griff, ha ha! Good luck.
Edited by EGB on Wednesday 27th June 08:31
You only need to get involved with bleeding the cooling system if you have an airlock. If your car uses coolant then you top it up via the header tank with the blue pressure cap, however beware that you don't overfill the system.
Many new owners are paranoid about the coolant level and overfill the system and then worry that they're losing coolant as the system will dump any coolant it doesn't need.
As long as the car is running Ok and is not overheating don't be concerned about the actual level in the tanks as long as it maintains a constant level.
Many new owners are paranoid about the coolant level and overfill the system and then worry that they're losing coolant as the system will dump any coolant it doesn't need.
As long as the car is running Ok and is not overheating don't be concerned about the actual level in the tanks as long as it maintains a constant level.
Thanks EGB,
Always liked the 60's racer look of the front of the Griff, rear didn't do it for me though. Liked the rear of the Chim and a bit more practical. By getting a late Chim with faired in headlights, thought I was getting the best of both worlds!
Still, hoping the Chim will become a 'classic' like the Griff!
rgds
T
Always liked the 60's racer look of the front of the Griff, rear didn't do it for me though. Liked the rear of the Chim and a bit more practical. By getting a late Chim with faired in headlights, thought I was getting the best of both worlds!
Still, hoping the Chim will become a 'classic' like the Griff!
rgds
T
V8 GRF said:
You only need to get involved with bleeding the cooling system if you have an airlock. If your car uses coolant then you top it up via the header tank with the blue pressure cap, however beware that you don't overfill the system.
Many new owners are paranoid about the coolant level and overfill the system and then worry that they're losing coolant as the system will dump any coolant it doesn't need.
As long as the car is running Ok and is not overheating don't be concerned about the actual level in the tanks as long as it maintains a constant level.
Thanks V8 GRF.Many new owners are paranoid about the coolant level and overfill the system and then worry that they're losing coolant as the system will dump any coolant it doesn't need.
As long as the car is running Ok and is not overheating don't be concerned about the actual level in the tanks as long as it maintains a constant level.
You mention the 'header tank' with Blue cap, but the manual says the 'Blue cap' tank is the Expansion Tank, and not the Header Tank? Header tank has a brass screw on the top? Can I take it that I both check coolant level and refill the 'tank' with the Blue cap (which is effectively like the clear plastic type on my Volvo)? Not trying to be pendantic, just want to get it right as I haven't done it before, thanks.
rgds
T
theoden said:
Thanks V8 GRF.
You mention the 'header tank' with Blue cap, but the manual says the 'Blue cap' tank is the Expansion Tank, and not the Header Tank? Header tank has a brass screw on the top? Can I take it that I both check coolant level and refill the 'tank' with the Blue cap (which is effectively like the clear plastic type on my Volvo)? Not trying to be pendantic, just want to get it right as I haven't done it before, thanks.
rgds
T
Yep that's the one I mean. The one with the brass cap is referred to as the 'swirl pot' and only needs filling if the system needs to be bled or refilled after a leak or replacement radiator for example.You mention the 'header tank' with Blue cap, but the manual says the 'Blue cap' tank is the Expansion Tank, and not the Header Tank? Header tank has a brass screw on the top? Can I take it that I both check coolant level and refill the 'tank' with the Blue cap (which is effectively like the clear plastic type on my Volvo)? Not trying to be pendantic, just want to get it right as I haven't done it before, thanks.
rgds
T
nawarne said:
Please, before getting into alternator replacement/testing, do check the 100 Amp fuse for cracking/failure.
Fuse is found (usually) by the O/S engine mount encased in a black plastic holder. I'd replace with a 125A MIDI type fuse, which are more mechanically robust.
Nick
Good advice. Testing the output of the alternator first is easier than finding the 100amp fuse buried under the car near the starter motor. Good idea to check all earths in pariticular the one on the chassis under offside wheel arch. There are others but no worries if your lights are ok.Fuse is found (usually) by the O/S engine mount encased in a black plastic holder. I'd replace with a 125A MIDI type fuse, which are more mechanically robust.
Nick
The "correct" level is usually quoted as being about half way up the expansion tank, but as said above, they find their own level. Mine is about 1cm at the bottom so that you can see the outlet! Add any extra coolant and it just disappears & returns to that same level.
Funny old girl!
Funny old girl!
Dr Wolff said:
The "correct" level is usually quoted as being about half way up the expansion tank, but as said above, they find their own level. Mine is about 1cm at the bottom so that you can see the outlet! Add any extra coolant and it just disappears & returns to that same level.
Funny old girl!
Mine is exactly the same.Funny old girl!
V8 GRF said:
Mine is exactly the same.
Mine too. In theory (and as per handbook) you fill the system from the swirlpot as it is the highest point on the system, but I find it just as effective to use the expansion pot as per everyone else posting above. You can often shift any significant air pockets by squeezing the radiator hoses.
In any case it took an iron bar and lead hammer to shift the brass plug on my swirlpot, which I found a very scary process. Why is the plug not hexagonal so we can use a socket or spanner? D'oh
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