suspension setup
Discussion
I've had my Griff for 12 years and in that time it's had two factory suspension upgrades (being one of the very first it originally came without anti-roll bars). Its had Nitrons and its been "set-up" numerous times. But the car has always been very difficult to drive. Then I met TopCats. Two hundred pounds and a ball of string later Brian at TopCats had utterly transformed the car. It is completely, utterly and unbelievably amazing.
So, if you have a TVR and you're not happy with its handling, give Warren at TopCats a call they REALLY know their stuff and you can't argue at their prices either!
So, if you have a TVR and you're not happy with its handling, give Warren at TopCats a call they REALLY know their stuff and you can't argue at their prices either!
Topcats set up the car as follows:
Camber - F 1.75 R - 1.75
Toe-in - F 1 R - 3
Caster 22 all round
Dampers - 7 from full hard on front, 9 on back
Ride height - F 113mm R 170mm (measured from chassis rails)
They set it up using steel bars, weights, rulers and string (honest!) This is the ONLY way to get the toe-in right from side-to-side. Apparently laser alignment can leave a car "crabbing" by having all the toe-in on one side and none on the other!
Corner weighting with driver gave (in lbs)
NS/F 1294 OS/F 1296
NS/R 1296 OS/R 1294
now that's what I call 50:50 weight distribution!
Camber - F 1.75 R - 1.75
Toe-in - F 1 R - 3
Caster 22 all round
Dampers - 7 from full hard on front, 9 on back
Ride height - F 113mm R 170mm (measured from chassis rails)
They set it up using steel bars, weights, rulers and string (honest!) This is the ONLY way to get the toe-in right from side-to-side. Apparently laser alignment can leave a car "crabbing" by having all the toe-in on one side and none on the other!
Corner weighting with driver gave (in lbs)
NS/F 1294 OS/F 1296
NS/R 1296 OS/R 1294
now that's what I call 50:50 weight distribution!
Roll hoops was fitted by a dealer who has now gone bust - they'd had it made for a customer who decided not to go with it. It runs down inside the rear bulkhead with two extensions that go through the parcel shelf and is bolted to the chassis at all four points. Apart from giving more rollover protection it does stiffen the rear of the car quite a lot. If you email me, (tim.beadle@btinternet.com) I'll send you some pics. Lots of places can fit roll hoops - but they DO need to be properly fixed to the chassis if they're going to work. Am currently planning to have full roll cage fitted by caged (they're listed in oilypages) because I do a lot of trackdays. Apparently the cage will stiffen the car up dramatically as the Griff chassis flexes a great deal from front to rear.
oldgrifff said:Hmmm. Only a full-3D laser alignment can get it completely right, and the error is a lot less than with string. But the gear costs a lot. Maybe there is some lesser laser kit, but doesn't sound right to me.
They set it up using steel bars, weights, rulers and string (honest!) This is the ONLY way to get the toe-in right from side-to-side. Apparently laser alignment can leave a car "crabbing" by having all the toe-in on one side and none on the other!
dannylt said:
They set it up using steel bars, weights, rulers and string (honest!) This is the ONLY way to get the toe-in right from side-to-side. Apparently laser alignment can leave a car "crabbing" by having all the toe-in on one side and none on the other!
Hmmm. Only a full-3D laser alignment can get it completely right, and the error is a lot less than with string. But the gear costs a lot. Maybe there is some lesser laser kit, but doesn't sound right to me.
I used to set my car up on a flat floor with chalk, string and a long straight edge. It's amazing what you will discover especially when you check the diagonals. That's before you start on the steering geometry!
Lasers are all very well - but they have to be aligned with the car and TVR bodies are NOT straight - there are no real reference points. Having had my car set up the hi-tech way and the string and weight way I know which one works best on my car and it's not the lasers. As with everything though - I suspect much of it is down to the skill of the operator. Good tools are useless in the hands of a crap mechanic - while a good one can work miracles with a pair of scissors and a mallet!
oldgrifff said:
Lasers are all very well - but they have to be aligned with the car and TVR bodies are NOT straight - there are no real reference points. Having had my car set up the hi-tech way and the string and weight way I know which one works best on my car and it's not the lasers. As with everything though - I suspect much of it is down to the skill of the operator. Good tools are useless in the hands of a crap mechanic - while a good one can work miracles with a pair of scissors and a mallet!
I agree here. The floor measurements will at least establish where the wheels are relative to each other and the chassis. Once they have been positioned correctly you can use the laser for fine tuning.
Boosted.
String is my preferred route too .. but only cos i can't afford lasers .. they're both as accurate as the operator .. and measuring camber to 1/100th of a degree like some papers have it written down as is complete nonsemse anyway.. lol.
Lasers and measure all four wheels relative to each other, and give you a thrust line down the car so you *can* have the car completely straight. however two wheel aligners like i have only show the two wheels relative to each other, that's why you need the string to give you the rear wheels geometry.
Both work brilliantly if you know how to use them
Lasers and measure all four wheels relative to each other, and give you a thrust line down the car so you *can* have the car completely straight. however two wheel aligners like i have only show the two wheels relative to each other, that's why you need the string to give you the rear wheels geometry.
Both work brilliantly if you know how to use them
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