TVR Wedge with a a Sebring Healey Body Anyone!
Discussion
Hi all,new here, dont know if anyones interested in what Im up to and hopefully I dont offend the lovers of the TVR wedge shape, but Im (so far so good)atempting something that has never been attempted (unless someone tells me different). Im placing a Sebring Healey 3000 replica body on to a TVR Tasmin 390se chassis from scratch, and using as much of the original tub and running gear of the TVR possible, to basicly get the best of both worlds. I have a habit of doing this sort of thing from time to time. Im 4 months into the build, but Check out the link and feel free to comment.
Edit update: Sorry i messed the heading up with the spelling, once posted I couldnt change it!

Edit update: Sorry i messed the heading up with the spelling, once posted I couldnt change it!
Edited by Lemonentry on Wednesday 16th January 00:12
Edited by Lemonentry on Tuesday 25th March 08:29
How very very weird and this is no lie, but because the car was a G reg (1990), I’ve just brought a dateless number plate for it from flea bay ready for the day, so it was more in keeping with the body style age, the plate is “WAS 391” which on a silver numbered black plate, using one silver bolt and one black bolt mistakenly positioned officer, It would be “WAS 3.9i” a sort of slant on “was a 3.9i TVR”, but with those suggestions its now “Wedge Austin Sebring 3.9i”, is that too much of a coincidence or what?
I always thought the wedge shape was fine, what it really needed was a better chassis and engine.
I do like the Healey/Sebring shape too so I think you are going to end up with a good looking and fun car. It should be lighter than with the original bodywork and perhaps leave more space for a supercharger, are you going to do anything with the suspension and brakes?
I do like the Healey/Sebring shape too so I think you are going to end up with a good looking and fun car. It should be lighter than with the original bodywork and perhaps leave more space for a supercharger, are you going to do anything with the suspension and brakes?
Hi, well the chassis, on my TVR is the later "a frame" rear end type and LSD, and im going to lower it just short of the weeds, so with all the typical mods to it too and no top or side weight present,like a wedge has, it should go round corners better than it did (but not sure about the wet!!!) Your right in that (I think) at present I will be able to shave about 250 to 300 kgs off the gross weight, (or 3 adults weight) as the suspension is still 5 inches higher than standard and theres not much more weight to go on, so with that and the 295 bhp it should be fun. But its got to burble better than a healey 3000, and of course no bloody Austin rust
Hi Totec
As i build away, im interested in getting rid of these problems if i can, because Ive only driven the car a short distance down a "b" road I dont know too much, what happens to the car on bumps and undulations that makes it struggle, is it the weight, or does it skip about / lunge etc?
As i build away, im interested in getting rid of these problems if i can, because Ive only driven the car a short distance down a "b" road I dont know too much, what happens to the car on bumps and undulations that makes it struggle, is it the weight, or does it skip about / lunge etc?
I cannot tell you how to fix it, I exchanged a few emails with Steve Heath (well known in wedge circles) and found out enough to know the suspension design needs significant reworking to improve it. That said poly bushes and some decent dampers can help make the best of what there is, we had a pair of rose-bushed drop links on the arb which made the front end feel a bit more responsive.
If you are dropping the ride height be aware that you adjust the rear camber by changing the number of shims between the drive shaft flange and diff.
I would also suggest trying to duct some air on to rear calipers as they can get very hot if used on track.
If you are dropping the ride height be aware that you adjust the rear camber by changing the number of shims between the drive shaft flange and diff.
I would also suggest trying to duct some air on to rear calipers as they can get very hot if used on track.
This is what i joined up for some sound advice, Ive got a full set of poly bushes for it front and rear (cost a packet), the dampers are on hold until I know how low it will go, but ive got a trick for that, that ive done on other lowered race cars, but we will see and if it works i will spill the beans. Stiff Sports springs off a 400 are on there way (hope they fit). What you dont say is was your suspension pre "A" frame, as mine has this later rear end A frame mod, which they say is a big improvement apprantly. Thanks for the rear brake tip, as yes no air flow and the exsaut passes close. Yes got my eye on the shims as this will need to be put right, and mine has a LSD too. But all in all, i still think the main trick is keeping the car lightweight, as that from the outset, its the main problem, as everything is under pressure to carry and stop the weight. Stop the lunging around is the name of the game.
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