Discussion
What's the most cost effective way to get more power out of a 350i. I've got a power boost but I'm not sure if it works ok.
before anyone says anything - I know the easiest way is to step up to a 400 SE/ SEAC or 500 Griff/Chimp. But I think the wedge has a classic shape. No offence to the curve brigade!
before anyone says anything - I know the easiest way is to step up to a 400 SE/ SEAC or 500 Griff/Chimp. But I think the wedge has a classic shape. No offence to the curve brigade!
quote:
What's the most cost effective way to get more power out of a 350i. I've got a power boost but I'm not sure if it works ok.
before anyone says anything - I know the easiest way is to step up to a 400 SE/ SEAC or 500 Griff/Chimp. But I think the wedge has a classic shape. No offence to the curve brigade!
In order of cost effectiveness (best first) ...
buy a car with a bigger engine
swap your engine for a bigger one (3.9?)
(remember it is likely to need suspension, transmission and brake upgrades to match the extra power). tweak and fettle your existing engine
Ho yes!
I've barely done anything to my V8 (rolling road and a rechip, cost around £750 and probably the most cost-effective thing you can do)) but I've investigated how much seriously worthwhile stuff would cost and the costs of engine mods delivering significant power increases make your eyes water.
You CAN do bits and pieces for not too much (read: under a grand) that might get you 10-15bhp here and there but would you notice? Really?
Unless you're a GreenV8S and you're sprinting, get a bigger engined car.
I've barely done anything to my V8 (rolling road and a rechip, cost around £750 and probably the most cost-effective thing you can do)) but I've investigated how much seriously worthwhile stuff would cost and the costs of engine mods delivering significant power increases make your eyes water.
You CAN do bits and pieces for not too much (read: under a grand) that might get you 10-15bhp here and there but would you notice? Really?
Unless you're a GreenV8S and you're sprinting
, get a bigger engined car.quote:And my favourite (beginning to sound like a stuck record):
In order of cost effectiveness (best first) ...
buy a car with a bigger engine
swap your engine for a bigger one (3.9?)
tweak and fettle your existing engine
upgrade the driver - a few advanced driving courses might have greater effect than a power hike.
All without casting aspersions on your current capabilities, of course
First thing bung your car on the rollers and find out what you have at the wheels. You might find some cheap power by setting it up if its out.
depending on how much grunt you want determines how much work you'll have to do. Without taking the engine out of the car and presuming your 350 is std, a new go fasta cam and followers, chain etc would be about 300 quid parts and a fair bit of labour, which would probably give you about 10-12bhp over std. If you also re-worked the heads that would work with the cam better and round out the total to +20 -25Bhp ish depending on spec. Head porting on your existing heads will be about 200 quid a headmore if you want increased compression, big valves etc.
After that its new block time as although you can remove the original liners its more cost effective to find a 4.6 or 4 ltr block.
Also for all of these the fuelling will need correction of some sort and Mark Adams services will correct your current ECU for an amount ( dunno how much) alternatively you can fit an aftermarket ECU and start from scratch ( 700+ quid for ECU + rolling road time) - afterwhich you'll be of the opinion that the carburettor is the finest piece of engineering ever.
If you fancy driving up to the next northants meet you can have a look at what I've done to mine if you fancy it.
Best of luck
Matt
depending on how much grunt you want determines how much work you'll have to do. Without taking the engine out of the car and presuming your 350 is std, a new go fasta cam and followers, chain etc would be about 300 quid parts and a fair bit of labour, which would probably give you about 10-12bhp over std. If you also re-worked the heads that would work with the cam better and round out the total to +20 -25Bhp ish depending on spec. Head porting on your existing heads will be about 200 quid a headmore if you want increased compression, big valves etc.
After that its new block time as although you can remove the original liners its more cost effective to find a 4.6 or 4 ltr block.
Also for all of these the fuelling will need correction of some sort and Mark Adams services will correct your current ECU for an amount ( dunno how much) alternatively you can fit an aftermarket ECU and start from scratch ( 700+ quid for ECU + rolling road time) - afterwhich you'll be of the opinion that the carburettor is the finest piece of engineering ever.
If you fancy driving up to the next northants meet you can have a look at what I've done to mine if you fancy it.
Best of luck
Matt
As someone who has continually stuck more and more power into a poor unsuspecting Wedge...
1. Whatever someone says it will cost, double it.
2. However much you spend on the engine, you will spend the same amount on getting the rest of the car to scratch.
3. Each time you solve one problem or strengthen a part to cope, at least two more weaknesses will appear.
Currently rebuilding the rear transmission/suspension after the 400 lb torque from 5.2 engine made it a little wibbly wobbily (tech term for making bushes 2 mm wider than tall). Currently having bits machined etc to take stronger bits.
There is a lot of details of engine mods that have been done to my Wedge on Tower View's web site.
www.t-v-r-services.co.uk.
Believe me the cheapest way is to change the car.
Steve
Slightly modified 390SE with 5.2 litre John Eales custom V8 with triple throttle body, DTA custom mapped injection and ignition system with Race logic traction control, custom data logging, 13 inch grooved vented discs with four pot billet callipers, Gaz/Tower View/Steve Heath modified suspension (car lowered by 3.5 inches), lightened bonnet, 800mm front splitter and rear boot spoiler, ally radiator, twin fuel pumps delivering 12 litre/minute, Tuscan Racer wheels, full Tower View/Roll Centre roll cage, and other odds and ends. Oh and a CD player instead of the cassette and still road legal.
1. Whatever someone says it will cost, double it.
2. However much you spend on the engine, you will spend the same amount on getting the rest of the car to scratch.
3. Each time you solve one problem or strengthen a part to cope, at least two more weaknesses will appear.
Currently rebuilding the rear transmission/suspension after the 400 lb torque from 5.2 engine made it a little wibbly wobbily (tech term for making bushes 2 mm wider than tall). Currently having bits machined etc to take stronger bits.
There is a lot of details of engine mods that have been done to my Wedge on Tower View's web site.
www.t-v-r-services.co.uk.
Believe me the cheapest way is to change the car.
Steve
Slightly modified 390SE with 5.2 litre John Eales custom V8 with triple throttle body, DTA custom mapped injection and ignition system with Race logic traction control, custom data logging, 13 inch grooved vented discs with four pot billet callipers, Gaz/Tower View/Steve Heath modified suspension (car lowered by 3.5 inches), lightened bonnet, 800mm front splitter and rear boot spoiler, ally radiator, twin fuel pumps delivering 12 litre/minute, Tuscan Racer wheels, full Tower View/Roll Centre roll cage, and other odds and ends. Oh and a CD player instead of the cassette and still road legal.
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