Fuel Hose replacement
Discussion
Assuming the car in your profile pic is the one you're talking about, you might want to read this:
http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&a...
The shorter pipe is the return and its behind the drivers side cylinderhead near the bell housing. On the griff you may need to take off the plenum for the feed but not sure on the chim. Make sure you use proper petrol clips not jubilees when reassembling, you may find it easier to slip the pipes on over the copper pipes withj some silicone spray as access is tight to say the least. Pipe sizes and number of pipes will depend on if you have aircon.
At the rear of the car you will need to drain down the tank to replace the pipe between the tank and the pump. Pipes after the pump need not be drained down. Check with your local indie the cost of replacing said pipes and decide for yourself if you need to take it on!! Easy but fiddly.
rosey
At the rear of the car you will need to drain down the tank to replace the pipe between the tank and the pump. Pipes after the pump need not be drained down. Check with your local indie the cost of replacing said pipes and decide for yourself if you need to take it on!! Easy but fiddly.
rosey
I replaced the hoses from the copper lines to the engine - the ones behind the engine and above the bellhousing then - on a mates 1998 Chimaera and it was a 8/10 on the swear-o-meter job.
Both pipes joined the copper lines above the bellhousing and you could only just reach them, let alone see them.
In the end I cut the fuel feed copper line back to the offside of the bellhousing so I could actually see what I was doing. Then to be on the safe side because there was now no olive to stop leaks I fitted 2 fuel clips. This will also make it easier to check in future because the join above the bellhousing is ridiculous.
Not the easiest of jobs even using ramps but with patience its doable.
Both pipes joined the copper lines above the bellhousing and you could only just reach them, let alone see them.
In the end I cut the fuel feed copper line back to the offside of the bellhousing so I could actually see what I was doing. Then to be on the safe side because there was now no olive to stop leaks I fitted 2 fuel clips. This will also make it easier to check in future because the join above the bellhousing is ridiculous.
Not the easiest of jobs even using ramps but with patience its doable.
Phew - managed to do it all from the top with thin hands and skinned knuckles
having good visualisation skills helps and the tiny pipe behind the plenum was a beaaatch to do.
in the end I cut it with a stanley knife and ripped the clips off with snipey pliers...
the other two are not too bad once you work out where they are...
having good visualisation skills helps and the tiny pipe behind the plenum was a beaaatch to do.
in the end I cut it with a stanley knife and ripped the clips off with snipey pliers...
the other two are not too bad once you work out where they are...
Gates,Coden,Goodyear,Sytec all good branded EFI hose that will do this job and last for years 
just make sure you get the right EFI rated stuff 
and use proper hose clamps not Jubilee style these tighten out of round on diameters as small as these 
use this style 
just make sure you get the right EFI rated stuff and use proper hose clamps not Jubilee style these tighten out of round on diameters as small as these use this style Edited by Sardonicus on Wednesday 17th July 11:18
Pupp said:
Might be helpful to post up the I/D of the right hose to use if anyone has it to hand...
Supposedly 7.6mm I.D (or similar) but I have used 8mm I.D on several occasions with no issues as you would expect might be worth checking this if your car has AC though the fuel fittings differ http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/Fuel_Hose_8mm_%... and http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CODAN-Fuel-Hose-Length-5...Edited by Sardonicus on Thursday 18th July 09:35
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