Help! Ideas please
Discussion
Ive been having hotstart problems that have been getting worse.
I have relocated the battery to the boot with 50mm cables and fitted a brand new starter yesterday.
This morning the car started first time and i pulled it out of the garage and started to pack for my trip.
Just tried to start the car and all i get is a big click coming from the new starter.
Ideas please.
AAAARGH
I have relocated the battery to the boot with 50mm cables and fitted a brand new starter yesterday.
This morning the car started first time and i pulled it out of the garage and started to pack for my trip.
Just tried to start the car and all i get is a big click coming from the new starter.
Ideas please.
AAAARGH
db484bhpv8 said:
Ive been having hotstart problems that have been getting worse
Ignition amp dying has these symptoms.But double check your starter connections and the battery/earth connections since you've been there recently. It could be just a loose wire.
Edited by Barreti on Saturday 27th July 10:16
Barreti said:
Ignition amp dying has these symptoms.
But double check your starter connections and the battery/earth connections since you've been there recently. It could be just a loose wire.
All connections are good.But double check your starter connections and the battery/earth connections since you've been there recently. It could be just a loose wire.
Edited by Barreti on Saturday 27th July 10:16
I did notice the new starter sounded a little laboured when i first tried it.
My battery is quite old. Ive just measured 12.65 volts but could it be the battery?
maybe the earth to the rear chassis bolt is insufficient?????
tvrboy55 said:
battery power should be 14v plus, may be one of the cell in your battery is nackerd. try it with a doner battery to jump start it a few times. and then with yours a few times.
Mine starts ok with 12.13 volts. A new Bosch battery this. Will check it out with the supplier it should be 630 amps. I'm a bit suspicious.When I got my car back from the 4litre to 5 litre upgrade it sounded totally different starting......a slow grind to start with, then speeding up until it fired. Never failed to fire, but took longer than before. I assumed it was the different engine.
A few weeks later I had the ECU out of its slot next to the battery and noticed the corner that would have been lowest and furthest fom the passenger seat was wet and sticky. Tasted it - acid. Acid on the carpet too.
Took it to the tyre and battery place. Good volts, good amps, but their big test kit said bad battery.
Changed the battery, now it starts fast and like it always used to.
Worth trying a different battery, even if you do have 12.6 volts. It's current you need, as you know.
A few weeks later I had the ECU out of its slot next to the battery and noticed the corner that would have been lowest and furthest fom the passenger seat was wet and sticky. Tasted it - acid. Acid on the carpet too.
Took it to the tyre and battery place. Good volts, good amps, but their big test kit said bad battery.
Changed the battery, now it starts fast and like it always used to.
Worth trying a different battery, even if you do have 12.6 volts. It's current you need, as you know.
tvrboy55 said:
battery power should be 14v plus, may be one of the cell in your battery is nackerd. try it with a doner battery to jump start it a few times. and then with yours a few times.
No it shouldn't.13.2-14.4 when on charge, but I'd be surprised if a 12v battery has more than 13V in it whilst being left overnight.
Agree with the jumping it off another motor though, to test the theory. Preferably something with a decent output or a Diesel & a good thick set of leads.
I have recently had the same issue. I beleived my battery was Ok so I went down the route of checking immobiliser etc.
Eventually it all seemed to point to a dodgy connection to the solonoid. It failed again the following morning and then I tried a jump from my other car's battery and it proved it was the battery. It seems so obvious now but the old battery was 5 years old. A new Boshe battery from Ebay for £65 and all is well. Sometimes these non sytarting threads can lead you to deeper problems rather than trying the basics first.
Measuring voltage on a battery will not tell you if its any good or not
Eventually it all seemed to point to a dodgy connection to the solonoid. It failed again the following morning and then I tried a jump from my other car's battery and it proved it was the battery. It seems so obvious now but the old battery was 5 years old. A new Boshe battery from Ebay for £65 and all is well. Sometimes these non sytarting threads can lead you to deeper problems rather than trying the basics first.
Measuring voltage on a battery will not tell you if its any good or not
what starter mate?
you need one of these.. RAC 318
http://www.racemettleltd.co.uk/t.html
reduction gearbox. will spin yours like a top at any temp.
did on my 5.0 4.5 & 4.8 at 12.5:1 red hot.
Takes the heat well as you can rotate it on the plate to distance the solonoid which is smaller anyway.
Andy
you need one of these.. RAC 318
http://www.racemettleltd.co.uk/t.html
reduction gearbox. will spin yours like a top at any temp.
did on my 5.0 4.5 & 4.8 at 12.5:1 red hot.
Takes the heat well as you can rotate it on the plate to distance the solonoid which is smaller anyway.
Andy
It's the trigger feed to the starter circuit from the alarm system , it drops down to about 7v on most if not all TVR,s in time.
Gets worst if you put the battery in the boot also , a touch of the old "V D " voltage drop(especially when hot)
Cut out that circuit and put a fresh feed through a new relay straight from the battery .
As sold by a few sources or make your own with a good relay kit.
Chop it in through the black connector block in the passenger footwell
Gets worst if you put the battery in the boot also , a touch of the old "V D " voltage drop(especially when hot)
Cut out that circuit and put a fresh feed through a new relay straight from the battery .
As sold by a few sources or make your own with a good relay kit.
Chop it in through the black connector block in the passenger footwell
x works said:
It's the trigger feed to the starter circuit from the alarm system , it drops down to about 7v on most if not all TVR,s in time.
Gets worst if you put the battery in the boot also , a touch of the old "V D " voltage drop(especially when hot)
Cut out that circuit and put a fresh feed through a new relay straight from the battery .
As sold by a few sources or make your own with a good relay kit.
Chop it in through the black connector block in the passenger footwell
What Heath Said.Gets worst if you put the battery in the boot also , a touch of the old "V D " voltage drop(especially when hot)
Cut out that circuit and put a fresh feed through a new relay straight from the battery .
As sold by a few sources or make your own with a good relay kit.
Chop it in through the black connector block in the passenger footwell
I do not understand either and would just take mine to X Works for him to sort.
db484bhpv8 said:
I had the battery tested before I set off. Seems the new starter I bought is sticking. A rock of the car in gear is needed 9 times out of 10. When it does work it's very laboured!
Change it. It's been on the shelf too long and may have a rusty pinion. Cleaning and a bit of thin grease may get it going.Gassing Station | General TVR Stuff & Gossip | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff



