Please help me sort this once and for all
Discussion
Still got the hotstart problem.... AAAAARRRGGH
I set off earlier to drive over 200 miles to Prescott. Got 8 miles away and stopped to fill up. Then nothing apart from a dimming of the dashboard lights when turning the key or trying the starter button. It started after a 20 minute cool down with the bonnet up from 80 to below 50 on the gauge. Ive tried different starters, mounted the battery in the boot with new 50mm cables. Replaced earths, Bypassed the starter part of the immobiliser and fitted a secondary relayed starter switch.
So i have abanded my trip and brought the car back home.
I need to sort this before next weekend. Got a big race meeting at York.
Please help
I set off earlier to drive over 200 miles to Prescott. Got 8 miles away and stopped to fill up. Then nothing apart from a dimming of the dashboard lights when turning the key or trying the starter button. It started after a 20 minute cool down with the bonnet up from 80 to below 50 on the gauge. Ive tried different starters, mounted the battery in the boot with new 50mm cables. Replaced earths, Bypassed the starter part of the immobiliser and fitted a secondary relayed starter switch.
So i have abanded my trip and brought the car back home.
I need to sort this before next weekend. Got a big race meeting at York.
Please help

If the battery is in the boot, you'll need very large cables and probably a more powerful battery - the starter requires a huge amount of power to start the car, even more when warm, and the voltage drop over distance is massive in all but the best battery cable. For reference the AJP is even worse as its is higher compression, and I've been advised by my mechanic (TVR guru Steve Howard) that we need to keep the cables down to half a metre or shorter to prevent hot start issues.
Nick, ive fitted brand new 50mm cables and bigger earths. I also ran a second earth from the battery to the engine and another from the starter bolt to the chassis.
Something is affected by the heat.
There is a very faint click. Not a loud click that i had with a previous brand new Global starter that i have sent back because it was sticking all the time.
Maybe this old starter is affected by the heat ???
Something is affected by the heat.
There is a very faint click. Not a loud click that i had with a previous brand new Global starter that i have sent back because it was sticking all the time.
Maybe this old starter is affected by the heat ???
I'm sorry if I'm mentioning stuff you've done already...
- Have you tried a different battery?
- Do you have an Anderson connector? Have you tried connecting the anderson plug and clamping it directly to the battery to see if it starts? This may give you some idea where the drain is.
I had something similar on my car after I did the valley gasket. I still have no idea why, but it did exactly this. My battery remains in the pax footwell. To try and resolve the issue I upgraded to 50mm cable, still nothing. I checked all the earths - nothing. I tried starting using the Anderson connector clamped to the battery and it started first time, which also ruled both the starter and the battery out. Eventually, I made a further 50mm earth from the battery and connected to the engine block and it started. I appreciate that you have done the latter already. Since that point, I've made another 25mm earth and connected it between the battery and swirl pot.
Is is possible that its an earth connection in the ECU? Perhaps worth trying the Anderson connector and battery route.
Just an idea. Hope you get it sorted.
- Have you tried a different battery?
- Do you have an Anderson connector? Have you tried connecting the anderson plug and clamping it directly to the battery to see if it starts? This may give you some idea where the drain is.
I had something similar on my car after I did the valley gasket. I still have no idea why, but it did exactly this. My battery remains in the pax footwell. To try and resolve the issue I upgraded to 50mm cable, still nothing. I checked all the earths - nothing. I tried starting using the Anderson connector clamped to the battery and it started first time, which also ruled both the starter and the battery out. Eventually, I made a further 50mm earth from the battery and connected to the engine block and it started. I appreciate that you have done the latter already. Since that point, I've made another 25mm earth and connected it between the battery and swirl pot.
Is is possible that its an earth connection in the ECU? Perhaps worth trying the Anderson connector and battery route.
Just an idea. Hope you get it sorted.
Sounds like you have changed all the likley candidates. It could be the solenoid feed wire. These will break down over time and may well be affected by the heat. Next time try a direct feed from the battery straight to solenoid, which in effect will bye pass the solenoid feed wire.
It could also just be your old starter sticking when hot. Never done it but you can allegedly strip the solenoid give it a good clean and re grease.
When you say secondary relayed starter switch. Is this basically wired battery straight to starter. If so starter could be favourite especially if all earths are good and new.
Ribblesdales auto electrics are near Preston Derek which isnt too far away from you and they would overhall your starter if need be, seen as you havent had any luck with a new one.
It could also just be your old starter sticking when hot. Never done it but you can allegedly strip the solenoid give it a good clean and re grease.
When you say secondary relayed starter switch. Is this basically wired battery straight to starter. If so starter could be favourite especially if all earths are good and new.
Ribblesdales auto electrics are near Preston Derek which isnt too far away from you and they would overhall your starter if need be, seen as you havent had any luck with a new one.
Edited by carsy on Saturday 17th August 17:10
I found that I had a problem after leaving her parkdd up in the garage the trickle charge on but slow turn over
To beat this I run a direct feed from battery to starter motor with a hidden push button
So if I get a click via the key its a simple push of the button and the starter gets the full jucie from the battery & starts
Also it's safe as I still need to have key in and alarm off
Hope that helps
Colin l
To beat this I run a direct feed from battery to starter motor with a hidden push button
So if I get a click via the key its a simple push of the button and the starter gets the full jucie from the battery & starts
Also it's safe as I still need to have key in and alarm off
Hope that helps
Colin l
Have you still got the Meta alarm and immobiliser? My hot start problem was solved by Carl Baker changing the immobiliser. I do still have the Modwise hot start kit somewhere I think - Carl removed it - but I don't have the wiring instructions. You are welcome to the kt if I can find it and someone can tell you where to stick it.....
TV8 said:
Hi Derek,
have you checked the terminals on the ignition switch?
Thts where i would look too.have you checked the terminals on the ignition switch?
Had this problem on mine for years, tried all the usual suspects but in the end it came down to two things,
The earth strap above the gearbox (stripped thread in my case) and the ignition wiring.
I know you had a body off chassis repair so that probably rules out the earth connection which then leaves the feed to the starter solanoid from the ignition. I had mine wripped out after it started smoking on one accasion, and a heavy duty cable a relay fitted...never had the problem again. Speak to Big Col he will remember what he did on my car to cure it mate.
Walford said:
ignition switch would be random hot and cold starts
does it cold start 100% of the time
Not necessarily, starter solanoids get sticky with heat, whilst u have enough current flowing thru the crap ignition circuit when cold, it may not be enough to push a hot sticky solanoid. And now matter if u have the modwise kit, big bog off wires to the starte etc, until that solanoid moves it's pointless, cos its the circuit breaker fir the cranking motordoes it cold start 100% of the time
Walford said:
ignition switch would be random hot and cold starts
does it cold start 100% of the time
Not necessarily, starter solanoids get sticky with heat, whilst u have enough current flowing thru the crap ignition circuit when cold, it may not be enough to push a hot sticky solanoid. And now matter if u have the modwise kit, big bog off wires to the starte etc, until that solanoid moves it's pointless, cos its the circuit breaker fir the cranking motordoes it cold start 100% of the time
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are you sure the relay is wired correctly to energize the starter solenoid thus taking the load from the ign switch?