Wax oil

[bionicjim]

Hi all
The title say it all really
Why my cerb is in bits and the engine out
Mike has very kindly allowed me to use his 4 poster ramp to clean the wax oil off my chassis
Get it rubbed down
Then a nice coat ( well 2 coats ) of Por 15 in grey
1 coat of etch primer and a coat of hard nose white
So the question is will brake cleaner get the wax oil off
I know it is a messy job but well worth doing
Your thourts please
( iv used the best grammar I can ) lol

[roseytvr]

I found degreasing fluid better than brake cleaner and it's a pig of a job. If the engines out can you not get a powerful steam cleaner on it? Remember a final clean with por15 cleaning fluid(sorry cant remember what it's called) to remove any film left by the degreaser. Por15 is expensive but quality stuff in my experience

[bionicjim]

Hi mate
Iv got loads of por stuff coming
Just thourt brake cleaner as its £10 for 5 lt
So well cheap I think it's a try and see thing
What type of degreaser was you thinking of

[Englishman]

I've been de-waxing by Griff today funnily enough. I had a pretty hard wax put on in 2008 after POR 15 and smoothright to match the chassis off-white colour and it was about time to see what was underneath.

Absolute pig of a job. Started at 9am, stopped at 6pm and still a few really hard patches to remove. I used a degreaser - Comma Hyperclean, really good stuff.

Would I use wax again - no. There are still a few new patches of rust under the wax so I think an annual chassis clean is the way to go for me after some more POR 15 and smoothright.

[DarkMatter]

I use white spirit to remove waxoil. Probably best to protect your hands when doing this, don't wear latex gloves though because the white spirit disintegrates them!

Edited by DarkMatter on Monday 2nd September 21:38

[ackbullchang]

I've never used it, but I'm pretty sure neat petrol melts wax. It's always a good degreaser for removing residual glues, so it could work.

[RocketScience]

DarkMatter said:

I use white spirit to remove waxoil. Probably best to protect your hands when doing this, don't wear latex gloves though because the white spirit disintegrates them!

Edited by DarkMatter on Monday 2nd September 21:38

+1

[anonymous-user]

When cleaning the tub of the Cerb down, I found WD40 really good....went thru a few cans, but that was more a reflection of how much crap was on it!

[ridds]

In all honesty, unless you are 100% certain that you won't need to take the body off in future you really are wasting your time.

I refurbed the back end of mine, spent a lot of weekends doing it and now it's all apart again getting the rot at the front removed.

You'll never do as good a job as actually getting the chassis out and re-powder coating, plus, POR15 is a pig to get on well, you'll be painting, throwing away the brush and pot, sanding, painting, throw away brush and pot. It's not cheap and you'll blow £100 on marine clean, metal ready, POR15, hardnose, brushes and pots.

The Hardnose white, in my experience is VERY fussy about surface prep and will fall off pretty quick unless you key the base coat correctly.

Just speaking from personal experience.

[bionicjim]

Hi all
Very busy day cleaning all iv got left to do is the out riggers sill end
Very very little rust
Ridds I' understand what you are saying
My verb is an 03 reg
And it's in great shape
As you may be away that I was a painter for 12 years so I'm well picky when it comes to prepping
All I'm doing is buying time till I get the money for a full refurb
Say 5-6 years
I'm more than happy how its coming along
Will take some pics and get them posted when I get 5 minutes

[ridds]

Fair enough, just didn't want someone to waste their time like I did.

As yours is a nice late chassis hopefully they sorted out the powder coating issues.

[Bluebottle]

ridds said:

In all honesty, unless you are 100% certain that you won't need to take the body off in future you really are wasting your time.

I refurbed the back end of mine, spent a lot of weekends doing it and now it's all apart again getting the rot at the front removed.

You'll never do as good a job as actually getting the chassis out and re-powder coating, plus, POR15 is a pig to get on well, you'll be painting, throwing away the brush and pot, sanding, painting, throw away brush and pot. It's not cheap and you'll blow £100 on marine clean, metal ready, POR15, hardnose, brushes and pots.

The Hardnose white, in my experience is VERY fussy about surface prep and will fall off pretty quick unless you key the base coat correctly.

Just speaking from personal experience.

+1 i'm with ridds, did my chassis with por15 a few Yeats back....Willow Sportscasa doing a fully body off chassis rebuild next month on the plus side, my hands will never get rusty, that stuff is a bh to get off
E

Edited by Bluebottle on Tuesday 3rd September 23:12

Edited by Bluebottle on Tuesday 3rd September 23:15

[Bluebottle]

ridds said:

In all honesty, unless you are 100% certain that you won't need to take the body off in future you really are wasting your time.

I refurbed the back end of mine, spent a lot of weekends doing it and now it's all apart again getting the rot at the front removed.

You'll never do as good a job as actually getting the chassis out and re-powder coating, plus, POR15 is a pig to get on well, you'll be painting, throwing away the brush and pot, sanding, painting, throw away brush and pot. It's not cheap and you'll blow £100 on marine clean, metal ready, POR15, hardnose, brushes and pots.

The Hardnose white, in my experience is VERY fussy about surface prep and will fall off pretty quick unless you key the base coat correctly.

Just speaking from personal experience.

+1 i'm with ridds, did my chassis with por15 a few Yeats back....Willow Sportscasa doing a fully body off chassis rebuild next month on the plus side, my hands will never get rusty, that stuff is a bh to get off
E

Edited by Bluebottle on Tuesday 3rd September 23:12

Edited by Bluebottle on Tuesday 3rd September 23:50