Instruments...
Discussion
Thought I'd post this up in here in the hope of a solution....
Precat Griff dash, where the clocks sit flush in the holes.... So basically the hole is bigger than the instrument....there are tabs glued on the back of the dash to stop the gauge falling through, but after 21 years, they int so clever any more and I'd like a better fix....
So does anyone know if I can get a bezel, to fit over the existing gauge, so that I can push the gauge into the dash from the front, and put the u shaped bracket on the back....... Basically I'd like to make the front of the gauge, bigger than the hole in the dash if that makes sense..
Precat Griff dash, where the clocks sit flush in the holes.... So basically the hole is bigger than the instrument....there are tabs glued on the back of the dash to stop the gauge falling through, but after 21 years, they int so clever any more and I'd like a better fix....
So does anyone know if I can get a bezel, to fit over the existing gauge, so that I can push the gauge into the dash from the front, and put the u shaped bracket on the back....... Basically I'd like to make the front of the gauge, bigger than the hole in the dash if that makes sense..
When I put aftermarket afr etc gauges in my dash, they were smaller than my original clocks so I made up some aluminium coller rings to reduce the hole size and painted them black.
ETA
sketch of bezel reducer rings
ETA
sketch of bezel reducer rings
Edited by Bluebottle on Monday 13th January 19:44
Andy, for the smaller gauges , I had some holders made,nylon is best for this.
Basically they were a short tube with the O/D about 10mm larger than the dash hole, and the I/D had a step in it for the bezel to sit in. This allowed the gauge to still be recessed, and alot more surface area to be glued to the rear of the dash.
The larger gauges are more difficult as there is no room to do the above, however increasing the amount of tabs helps alot.
Basically they were a short tube with the O/D about 10mm larger than the dash hole, and the I/D had a step in it for the bezel to sit in. This allowed the gauge to still be recessed, and alot more surface area to be glued to the rear of the dash.
The larger gauges are more difficult as there is no room to do the above, however increasing the amount of tabs helps alot.
.... Might give it a try in an inconspicuous area..You couldn't resist tinkering then Andy? I wondered how long it would be 
A hot glue gun is going to be your new best friend mate.
You can 'tack' your gauges in place to be certain you have them lined up before permanently gluing the tabs on.
AND when you've got the gauges in you can run wild with the glue to really fix the clock in place without worrying about buggering anything because you can peel the glue off if you need to.
It's a brilliant bit of dead cheap kit.
A hot glue gun is going to be your new best friend mate.
You can 'tack' your gauges in place to be certain you have them lined up before permanently gluing the tabs on.
AND when you've got the gauges in you can run wild with the glue to really fix the clock in place without worrying about buggering anything because you can peel the glue off if you need to.
It's a brilliant bit of dead cheap kit.
Barreti said:
You couldn't resist tinkering then Andy? I wondered how long it would be
A hot glue gun is going to be your new best friend mate.
You can 'tack' your gauges in place to be certain you have them lined up before permanently gluing the tabs on.
AND when you've got the gauges in you can run wild with the glue to really fix the clock in place without worrying about buggering anything because you can peel the glue off if you need to.
It's a brilliant bit of dead cheap kit.
Excellent suggestionA hot glue gun is going to be your new best friend mate.
You can 'tack' your gauges in place to be certain you have them lined up before permanently gluing the tabs on.
AND when you've got the gauges in you can run wild with the glue to really fix the clock in place without worrying about buggering anything because you can peel the glue off if you need to.
It's a brilliant bit of dead cheap kit.
..... And as you might expect, in my well equipped garage, I already have a hot melt glue gun.
Quinny said:
Thanks for the suggestions guys..... I like the o ring, and alloy spacer solutions, as they seem simple n cheap...
One question though, what type of alloy rings and how did you make them round??
Just normal Aluminium machined from round bar stock, You wont need the second plain ring as that I needed for the rear of the dash to provide a something to clamp against;One question though, what type of alloy rings and how did you make them round??
sketch of bezel reducer rings
Bluebottle said:
Quinny said:
Thanks for the suggestions guys..... I like the o ring, and alloy spacer solutions, as they seem simple n cheap...
One question though, what type of alloy rings and how did you make them round??
Just normal Aluminium machined from round bar stock;One question though, what type of alloy rings and how did you make them round??
sketch of bezel reducer rings
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