cosmetically tidying up Outriggers - POR15 or what?
Discussion
Advice please for proceedure and best products to clean off superficial rust and lose factory paint, neutalise existing rust without grinding out, protect against future rusting and cosmetically finish
If rust is as light as when I last looked (20k dry miles and dry stored) I intend sanding by hand with coarse glasspaper and drill wire brushing any areas where rust is more obviously starting.
so..ok,..
1) what are the best products to neutralise existing residual surface rust
2)What is next compatible layer?
3) what is best protective future proofing, matching satin silver if available
4) would you then Waxoil on top of that? = After how long?- Would a rubberised sort of underseal be better?
I dont anticipate using car much in the wet and never during winter / salt, I simply want to protect the vulnerable outriggers
Any of the recommended products suited to put on top of existing thin factory silver paint?
If rust is as light as when I last looked (20k dry miles and dry stored) I intend sanding by hand with coarse glasspaper and drill wire brushing any areas where rust is more obviously starting.
so..ok,..
1) what are the best products to neutralise existing residual surface rust
2)What is next compatible layer?
3) what is best protective future proofing, matching satin silver if available
4) would you then Waxoil on top of that? = After how long?- Would a rubberised sort of underseal be better?
I dont anticipate using car much in the wet and never during winter / salt, I simply want to protect the vulnerable outriggers
Any of the recommended products suited to put on top of existing thin factory silver paint?
Had mine 9 years now, and when I got it I did something similar to our suggestions.
Sanded/wire brushed problem areas, painted with Jenolite (2 coats as per instructions), two cots of black smoothrite to match chassis, coat of black wax.
I go under once a year to look for any chips/rust and deal with them as above.
Just passed MOT in April and tester commented on how well the chassis looked.
PS POR15 is good, but very messy and a real pain if you get it on skin/hair.
PPS I'm lucky as my Wedge has removable sills, so it's very easy to check / fix outriggers.
Sanded/wire brushed problem areas, painted with Jenolite (2 coats as per instructions), two cots of black smoothrite to match chassis, coat of black wax.
I go under once a year to look for any chips/rust and deal with them as above.
Just passed MOT in April and tester commented on how well the chassis looked.
PS POR15 is good, but very messy and a real pain if you get it on skin/hair.
PPS I'm lucky as my Wedge has removable sills, so it's very easy to check / fix outriggers.
Kitchski said:
POR15 would be my choice, but I'd also point out if you're not lifting the body to do it, it's a fairly pointless task on the outriggers.
not looked for a while, cant you brush in some rust killer then protection over the top? - If it is that tight, should we try and seal off the top after best attempt at rust killing, with mastic underseal and form a semi flex rubbery seal?Which POR products do I need and what is best source?
thx
The problem i find with POR15 is that once opened it all needs to be used, ive tried sealing it with clingfilm in a jar and it still hardened!
Small tester size pots were not available the last time i looked.
It also likes to stick to existing rusty surfaces or its own primers, it does not seem to cure properly on smoother surfaces.
With regards to converters such as kurust etc they are a waste of time, i find the rust comes back through after a while.
Its worth looking at a rust remover from someone like bilt hamber , the deox gel looks good but a bit awkward to use.
http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and...
Small tester size pots were not available the last time i looked.
It also likes to stick to existing rusty surfaces or its own primers, it does not seem to cure properly on smoother surfaces.
With regards to converters such as kurust etc they are a waste of time, i find the rust comes back through after a while.
Its worth looking at a rust remover from someone like bilt hamber , the deox gel looks good but a bit awkward to use.
http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and...
I've got some of the bithammer stuff - used it on the lawnmower, not the tvr yet. good stuff.
For the POR - if you use the two part stuff, paint and hardener, then seal the paint tin with a double layer of cling film, then put the lid on, then put in a food bag with zip, then I have no issues and the lid comes off easy.
Or be lazy, buy the smallest tin to do the job you need of the ready mixed, and throw it (and paintbrush) away.
For the POR - if you use the two part stuff, paint and hardener, then seal the paint tin with a double layer of cling film, then put the lid on, then put in a food bag with zip, then I have no issues and the lid comes off easy.
Or be lazy, buy the smallest tin to do the job you need of the ready mixed, and throw it (and paintbrush) away.
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