Short shift kit for a T5

[Corin Denton]

Is there one out there?

[Martin_S]

www.bmracing.com/index.php?id=products&sid=3&cat=3&subcat=15

[tail slide]

Steve Guglielmi fitted this when installing the Griff engine to my Ginetta. Works a treat, but was used to allow fitment of a tall gearlever near the wheel a la touring car with similar throw to standard despite long lever - I wasn't sure, but he was right (of course)!

[HarryW]

tail slide said:

Steve Guglielmi fitted this when installing the Griff engine to my Ginetta. Works a treat, but was used to allow fitment of a tall gearlever near the wheel a la touring car with similar throw to standard despite long lever - I wasn't sure, but he was right (of course)!

My schoolboy mechanical theory doesn't understand how a longer stick can have a shorter throw , any pictures to save my confusion .

harry

[Martin_S]

Schoolboy mechanical theory is just fine for understanding quickshifts.

A gearlever is just that - a lever.

It pivots about a fulcrum point. You can juggle the length of the lever either side of the fulcrum to get the combination of throw and effort that you need, within limits.

Quickshifts typically move the fulcrum so that there is more lever on the gearbox side, so that a smaller movement at the gearknob is required for the same movement at the selector fork end, but there is no reason you couldn't achieve a shorter throw and a longer lever, if you move the fulcrum point far enough!



>> Edited by Martin_S on Wednesday 9th February 23:22

[shpub]

Bear in mind that the Chim/Griff have a special remote fitted that is probably incompatible with any quick shift as a result. I also thing that it gives some quickshift properties.

BTW with practice it is possible to change gear (power on to power off) in about 0.6- 0.7 seconds (according to my data logger). It is hard to get much quicker than that!

[joospeed]

Steve's right I think .. there might be insufficient vertical height available for fitting to a chim/griff.

Also the TVR remote linkage has some side-to-side ratio increase, but none front to back, ie is narrower across the gate but not the the front/back plane.

[BigGriff]

Or alternatively fit traction control with full throttle shift and then you don't lose time manually putting the clutch down as the electronics do it for you.

If any of you are thinking of doing this beware as it a complete B***er!, but have to say the benefits are pretty impressive.

Richard

[shpub]

What system do you have as nearly all the full throttle shift ones I have seen still rely on clutch operation and use a microswaitch on the clutch pedal to trigger the gee whizzery.

The full throttle shift is usually hooked up to the clutch pedal so that when it is depressed, the ECU/TC/Rev limiter (delete as applicable) automatically cuts the revs and simulates you taking your foot off the gas. When the clutch is engaged and the pedal raised, the revs are restored. The gas pedal remains full to the floor.

The theory is that is quicker but the key time is still that of operating the clutch. There are systems that will operate the clutch for you pneumatically and sequential boxes have a different mechanism.

Main problem is all these are very hard on the clutch and transmission which means component life is very short and/or expensive.

[dnb]

If you want to shift gear that quickly, try a zeroshift gearbox...

[BigGriff]

I have the racelogic professional set-up Steve. I suspect you are right as the clutch needs to be depressed but the throttle automatically backs off the engine and then re-engages without lifting off. I believe you can also fit a touch sensitive switch to the gearknob as well, but I think getting used to not backing off the throttle when doing 5,500 rpm will be a physchological challenge. I keep half expecting the engine to leap out of the car in bits!!

Mine is having teething troubles as high revs cause it to fluctuate. Apparently it is the impedence sensor that is wrong. Racelogic are apparently going to sort it out shortly.

Would love zero shift, but now looking at the Drenth box to go with a nice new 6 litre chevy motor. Everything else is upgraded so it needs more horsepower. A slippery slope is approaching !!!


Richard

[shpub]

dnb said:

If you want to shift gear that quickly, try a zeroshift gearbox...

If they didn't cost around £7k I might. Looked into it and sequentials (which were even more).

[jellison]

BigGriff said:

I have the racelogic professional set-up Steve. I suspect you are right as the clutch needs to be depressed but the throttle automatically backs off the engine and then re-engages without lifting off. I believe you can also fit a touch sensitive switch to the gearknob as well, but I think getting used to not backing off the throttle when doing 5,500 rpm will be a physchological challenge. I keep half expecting the engine to leap out of the car in bits!! Mine is having teething troubles as high revs cause it to fluctuate. Apparently it is the impedence sensor that is wrong. Racelogic are apparently going to sort it out shortly. Would love zero shift, but now looking at the Drenth box to go with a nice new 6 litre chevy motor. Everything else is upgraded so it needs more horsepower. A slippery slope is approaching !!! Richard

I decided T5 was never going to work with LS6 so got something real trick - all coming together and in car in a week or 2.

And I don't think you can get a quickshift for a t5 the std linkage is directly on to the 2" shifter stub.

[tail slide]

jellison said:

And I don't think you can get a quickshift for a t5 the std linkage is directly on to the 2" shifter stub.

May well be right, can't verify for a week as away on hol & don't remember. Will check on return.

[taimar78]

In addition to B&M, Hurst and others also offer kits for the T-5 shifter. Try going to the Summit Racing website or to Jeg's and see what's available.