Help! Flooded TVR
Discussion
My Tasmin was flooded to about 3" above the bottom of the windscreen when the Environment Agency opened the River Foss flood barrier in York. The insurance company (Highway - Classic Car) want to write it off and cart it away, but I don't want to see it scrapped (we have been together for 32 years). What should I do - your advice, please? I am not prepared to undertake myself, or supervise, a total rebuild, under any circumstances. I have an enormous quantity of spares, more than would fit in the car. The car was my only one and was taxed and tested.
The photos shows the scene when I opened the garage door and "GUBZY" in happier days. More photos available, before and after the flood.
I may not be able to reply quickly to any posts, as my house also got flooded - happy days!
![](http://thumbsnap.com/sc/ZVOQZ7IN.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="http://thumbsnap.com/s4eSQa54" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]http://thumbsnap.com/sc/s4eSQa54.jpg)
The photos shows the scene when I opened the garage door and "GUBZY" in happier days. More photos available, before and after the flood.
I may not be able to reply quickly to any posts, as my house also got flooded - happy days!
Sorry to hear that, what a nightmare.
I'd suggest that not all is lost and some careful drying out and cleaning could well get the car back on the road.
Obviously the car is a keeper so what sort of a deal will they do to write the car off and then let you buy the 'salvage' back?
A space heater at a low temp with a dehumidifier could speed the process to dry out.
The engine should be OK if dried out properly as I'd guess it's unlikely that water has managed to find its way onside as it wasn't running. Get that checked over at a garage and turn it over with everything disconnected to start with after changing the oil and fuel.
I guess the carpets will be US but there are folk who clean upholstery so again it may be possible to salvage the trim.
Just a few suggestions to start you thinking more positively.
I'd suggest that not all is lost and some careful drying out and cleaning could well get the car back on the road.
Obviously the car is a keeper so what sort of a deal will they do to write the car off and then let you buy the 'salvage' back?
A space heater at a low temp with a dehumidifier could speed the process to dry out.
The engine should be OK if dried out properly as I'd guess it's unlikely that water has managed to find its way onside as it wasn't running. Get that checked over at a garage and turn it over with everything disconnected to start with after changing the oil and fuel.
I guess the carpets will be US but there are folk who clean upholstery so again it may be possible to salvage the trim.
Just a few suggestions to start you thinking more positively.
Bloody hell - so sorry mate, it must be terrible for you and the family.
Well you could always accept if you are happy with the valuation and buy it back!
The most obvious down side is the category insurance " write off" status.
But if you have had the car that long would you be bothered?
Let us know how you get on.
Well you could always accept if you are happy with the valuation and buy it back!
The most obvious down side is the category insurance " write off" status.
But if you have had the car that long would you be bothered?
Let us know how you get on.
anthonyjg said:
My Tasmin was flooded to about 3" above the bottom of the windscreen when the Environment Agency opened the River Foss flood barrier in York. The insurance company (Highway - Classic Car) want to write it off and cart it away, but I don't want to see it scrapped (we have been together for 32 years). What should I do - your advice, please?
What a nightmare for you, what a way to start the year. Obviously we can't see the extent of the damage but initial thought is to why bother getting the insurance people involved? Just get the issues that need sorting one by one out of your own pocket. Might take a while but as you've had the car 32 years............
on the electrics front I'd say the only thing to really worry about is the ECU
but these are completely repairable / replaceable so 1 st thing to do is remove it from the car , take the cover off and give the circuit board a good soaking with switch cleaner and then leave it in the airing cupboard overnight
as its not powered up with the ignition off you stand a good chance of it being OK
but these are completely repairable / replaceable so 1 st thing to do is remove it from the car , take the cover off and give the circuit board a good soaking with switch cleaner and then leave it in the airing cupboard overnight
as its not powered up with the ignition off you stand a good chance of it being OK
Sorry to hear of your loss and flood situation in general.
I would think it quite likely that water has got into your engine if it was submerged for any length of time. Assuming battery is already disconnected, I think it would be a good idea to remove the spark plugs and slowly turn the engine over by hand using front pulley if possible or by rocking in gear. (remember the transmission may well have water inside too from breather / shifter turret) I would also drain the oil as it may well have found its way in via breathers etc. Long haul on the fix but not impossible and sounds like your well attached to her. ECU and other electrical items that may have taken in water should be disconnected, drained (where dripping) and left in a warm environment for a few days to dry out before further investigation. So long as corrosion does not set in, they are often recoverable, even more so if not powered at all whilst wet/submerged - in the meantime, drain, dry and clean as much as possible.
A decent valuation would help with insurance payout and I would suggest you enquire re maintaining ownership since a write-off claim may well challenge that too.
I would think it quite likely that water has got into your engine if it was submerged for any length of time. Assuming battery is already disconnected, I think it would be a good idea to remove the spark plugs and slowly turn the engine over by hand using front pulley if possible or by rocking in gear. (remember the transmission may well have water inside too from breather / shifter turret) I would also drain the oil as it may well have found its way in via breathers etc. Long haul on the fix but not impossible and sounds like your well attached to her. ECU and other electrical items that may have taken in water should be disconnected, drained (where dripping) and left in a warm environment for a few days to dry out before further investigation. So long as corrosion does not set in, they are often recoverable, even more so if not powered at all whilst wet/submerged - in the meantime, drain, dry and clean as much as possible.
A decent valuation would help with insurance payout and I would suggest you enquire re maintaining ownership since a write-off claim may well challenge that too.
Edited by ThommoHawk on Monday 4th January 14:07
Thanks for all your helpful advice and sympathy, folks. The present situation is that the insurance company said they would send an assessor round from one of their approved repairers, who would assess the car or take it away for assessment. When the assessor/repairer rang at lunch time they would only take the car away and than assess it - I said "no", on the basis that if the car is taken away I have lost the only bargaining chip I have, namely the car, and would have to accept any offer they cared to make.
I then contacted the brokers, Marsh (formerly, they have been taken over and I forget the new name) of Kendall, and they agreed to intercede on my behalf. The insurance company have now rung and will arrange an inspection in the next two days -- watch this space.
On the damage front, I don't know how long the water was at full height, as I was away for Christmas in Sussex, but I would guess at several days, from the multiple "tide-lines". The battery was connected during this time, and under water, so it is probable that there was potential across a number of the electrical connections, with subsequent electrolysis and corrosion. I would suspect that water may also have got into the engine, as the block was completely covered for that time. Many of the larger spares, e.g. differential, 4-speed box, spare set of 5 Momo alloys, power steering rack with pump and all the window glass (bar the windscreen) were also on the floor of the garage and so will have got wet. All of the above should be OK however, since they are exposed to road splashing when in service anyway.
I can't face the prospect of renovating the car myself and I that won't change, sorry.
I then contacted the brokers, Marsh (formerly, they have been taken over and I forget the new name) of Kendall, and they agreed to intercede on my behalf. The insurance company have now rung and will arrange an inspection in the next two days -- watch this space.
On the damage front, I don't know how long the water was at full height, as I was away for Christmas in Sussex, but I would guess at several days, from the multiple "tide-lines". The battery was connected during this time, and under water, so it is probable that there was potential across a number of the electrical connections, with subsequent electrolysis and corrosion. I would suspect that water may also have got into the engine, as the block was completely covered for that time. Many of the larger spares, e.g. differential, 4-speed box, spare set of 5 Momo alloys, power steering rack with pump and all the window glass (bar the windscreen) were also on the floor of the garage and so will have got wet. All of the above should be OK however, since they are exposed to road splashing when in service anyway.
I can't face the prospect of renovating the car myself and I that won't change, sorry.
Was it just rainwater/river water or was their likely raw sewage involved? If the latter you will probably want to bin the entire interior and other bits.
If the worst comes to the worst, it is your car, and you can tell the insurance company to get bent (as I understand it) but you won't get a payout.
If the worst comes to the worst, it is your car, and you can tell the insurance company to get bent (as I understand it) but you won't get a payout.
350Matt said:
on the electrics front I'd say the only thing to really worry about is the ECU
but these are completely repairable / replaceable so 1 st thing to do is remove it from the car , take the cover off and give the circuit board a good soaking with switch cleaner and then leave it in the airing cupboard overnight
as its not powered up with the ignition off you stand a good chance of it being OK
If you intend to try and dry the ECU, placing it in a fine mesh bag and then in a big bag of rice (uncooked!) will draw the moisture out, and in some cases, better than in an airing cupboard.but these are completely repairable / replaceable so 1 st thing to do is remove it from the car , take the cover off and give the circuit board a good soaking with switch cleaner and then leave it in the airing cupboard overnight
as its not powered up with the ignition off you stand a good chance of it being OK
Very sorry to hear of your predicament, I have suffered severe flooding in the past so know what you are going through. I think it likely that the insurance company would allow you to buy back the car - but certainly worth agreeing this before the car is removed from you. I bought my TVR back after it was written off by a friend and it actually worked out quite well financially. I bought it back for a quarter of the agreed value and managed to put it back on the road in a better condition than previously.
I really think it would be a false economy not to go through insurance - you risk spending more than the car is worth, particularly as you are not keen to do the work yourself. The bill could get very big:
Possible new ECU and wiring
Interior retrim
Engine, box and possibly diff rebuild
If on the other hand the insurers offer a sensible payment you may be able to get all the work done within that and ultimately end up with a car in even better condition than pre flood. The car would end up as a Category D (the least serious write off) Category C is generally for cars with more serious chassis damage and Category B are cars that are too badly damaged to be repaired.
As you intend to keep the car the fact that it becomes a Cat D is irrelevant, the value would be reduced by about 25%, but other than that it should have no bearing. I'm sure you'll be able to find a trustworthy garage to tackle the work - it should be pretty straight forward. If you lived near me on the south coast I could recommend several people, but I'm sure they'll be good people near you.
Good luck with it and I hope this gives you the opportunity to improve the car without it costing you any money!
I really think it would be a false economy not to go through insurance - you risk spending more than the car is worth, particularly as you are not keen to do the work yourself. The bill could get very big:
Possible new ECU and wiring
Interior retrim
Engine, box and possibly diff rebuild
If on the other hand the insurers offer a sensible payment you may be able to get all the work done within that and ultimately end up with a car in even better condition than pre flood. The car would end up as a Category D (the least serious write off) Category C is generally for cars with more serious chassis damage and Category B are cars that are too badly damaged to be repaired.
As you intend to keep the car the fact that it becomes a Cat D is irrelevant, the value would be reduced by about 25%, but other than that it should have no bearing. I'm sure you'll be able to find a trustworthy garage to tackle the work - it should be pretty straight forward. If you lived near me on the south coast I could recommend several people, but I'm sure they'll be good people near you.
Good luck with it and I hope this gives you the opportunity to improve the car without it costing you any money!
Dave H has contributed with some sensible/helpful comments....as he says, a bit more upbeat.
Re: insurance - remember the car is your property until you sign over to the underwriters for the pay-out.
I had a minor biff with my car just before Christmas, and in the course of conversation with the assessor, found out that it pays to stand your ground regarding what is repairable and the relative value of the vehicle.
As mentioned, get a good TVR bloke on the case and see what can/needs to be done.
Nick
Re: insurance - remember the car is your property until you sign over to the underwriters for the pay-out.
I had a minor biff with my car just before Christmas, and in the course of conversation with the assessor, found out that it pays to stand your ground regarding what is repairable and the relative value of the vehicle.
As mentioned, get a good TVR bloke on the case and see what can/needs to be done.
Nick
Sorry to hear this, if you want a small plus point, if yours is the 2.8 K-Jet Injection? No ECU to worry about and the cologne lump is pretty hard.
Edit to add.
On the insurance front I`m with Haggerty, who offer agreed value and more importantly guaranteed buy back of the salvage on cat C and D claims.(Sierra XR4i)
Edit to add.
On the insurance front I`m with Haggerty, who offer agreed value and more importantly guaranteed buy back of the salvage on cat C and D claims.(Sierra XR4i)
Edited by T66ORA on Tuesday 5th January 18:18
Hi sorry about you're flooding. I do a lot of insurance work in the farming world and when the insurance company won't to wright off and take away etc it is you're right to retain salvage it's you're property !!!! Don't let it go and play hard ball unless things have changed its you're car you are in the driving seat. Good luck. Richard
griff 200 said:
it is you're right to retain salvage it's you're property !!!!
But surely it is their property once they've paid out?Some insurers will sell it back to you, I know two people who have done this, both for around £1000/£1200 I believe. My insurers, RH specialist, let me keep the "salvage" FOC.
But unless you get a very generous settlement I can't see how you you can possible get it "sorted" without a considerable extra outlay or doing a lot of the work yourself and using secondhand parts where possible?
It is after all, sadly, a "write off" = uneconomical repair?
Edited by phillpot on Wednesday 6th January 08:39
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