:weeping: Chassis woes (Part One)
Discussion
After having engine removed for rebuild managed to get a good view of the chassis as engine bay is exposed.
On first impressions there looked to be a number of patches of surface rust on the top chassis rails (ones that run directly under manifolds).
Decided it would be a good idea to have them shot blasted and prepped for coating of Por15 but found to my horror that the drivers side had a number of small holes around the size of a pencil and the passenger side was very thin in places.
Now correct me if I'm wrong... Should this really happen to a vehicle that is only just 8 yrs old and if this progressed was obviously going bad poss 2,3 even 4 yrs ago.
A vehicle that was a touch under 42K New and even though the chassis has been waxoiled every year(according to service records).
Why was'nt this picked up on the MOT, admittedly the rails are very close to the manifolds when engine is in situ but still puzzles me.
Is this a design error on TVR's part,is the heat from the manifolds a factor.?
There are heat shields on the inner wings should there have been some type of shield over the rails..!!
I own a MK1 Golf GTI that is 22yrs old with 112000 miles the chassis on that is still as solid as the day it was made. Yes I know we are talking different league of motor car, lightweight frame, powdercoat etc etc but surely not after 8 yrs of careful attention should the chassis be in this condition...!
No warranty on vehicle so can't go back to dealer...
Has anyone else been in this unfortunate situation.?
Can the top chassis rail on each side be replaced as this looks to be the only bad areas.?
Would I have a case to approach TVR in Blackpool and see if they would replace rails or chassis.?
Sure I've read somewhere that this has been the case but can't remember which model or the age of the car.
Anyway just needed to get that off my chest, your views or any info would be greatly appreciated.
Gsw500.
On first impressions there looked to be a number of patches of surface rust on the top chassis rails (ones that run directly under manifolds).
Decided it would be a good idea to have them shot blasted and prepped for coating of Por15 but found to my horror that the drivers side had a number of small holes around the size of a pencil and the passenger side was very thin in places.
Now correct me if I'm wrong... Should this really happen to a vehicle that is only just 8 yrs old and if this progressed was obviously going bad poss 2,3 even 4 yrs ago.
A vehicle that was a touch under 42K New and even though the chassis has been waxoiled every year(according to service records).
Why was'nt this picked up on the MOT, admittedly the rails are very close to the manifolds when engine is in situ but still puzzles me.
Is this a design error on TVR's part,is the heat from the manifolds a factor.?
There are heat shields on the inner wings should there have been some type of shield over the rails..!!
I own a MK1 Golf GTI that is 22yrs old with 112000 miles the chassis on that is still as solid as the day it was made. Yes I know we are talking different league of motor car, lightweight frame, powdercoat etc etc but surely not after 8 yrs of careful attention should the chassis be in this condition...!
No warranty on vehicle so can't go back to dealer...
Has anyone else been in this unfortunate situation.?
Can the top chassis rail on each side be replaced as this looks to be the only bad areas.?
Would I have a case to approach TVR in Blackpool and see if they would replace rails or chassis.?
Sure I've read somewhere that this has been the case but can't remember which model or the age of the car.
Anyway just needed to get that off my chest, your views or any info would be greatly appreciated.
Gsw500.
Sorry to hear about the bad condition of your chassis... I doubt TVR will help out on a car which is 8 years old. But I dont know what the legal situation is on a chassis - if its bad, the car is not road worthy... I have no idea how long the chassis's are said to last, but there are some VERY old TVR's which still hit the track without any problems, maybe this was a poor build to start with?
I've had a chassis restoration on my 390 (13 years old at the time), and I was suprised to hear how many chassis jobs the dealer I was using had done on Chimaeras and Griffiths (particularly outriggers), especially bearing in mind that this was two years ago.
I personally put it down to poor / non existant rust proofing methods used by the factory, I hope things are better under new management! This view was backed up the dealer, who said that if I were to buy a new chassis from the factory rather than have the existing one repaired, the first thing he would advise doing is getting it shotblasted, then powder coated properly.
I am about to sell my wedge, and would like to get a newer TVR in the future but the problem of rusting chassis really puts me off. Sadly, this opinion is formed from bitter experience.
I personally put it down to poor / non existant rust proofing methods used by the factory, I hope things are better under new management! This view was backed up the dealer, who said that if I were to buy a new chassis from the factory rather than have the existing one repaired, the first thing he would advise doing is getting it shotblasted, then powder coated properly.
I am about to sell my wedge, and would like to get a newer TVR in the future but the problem of rusting chassis really puts me off. Sadly, this opinion is formed from bitter experience.
I had my chassis completely stripped and re-coated a couple of years ago due to serious rust on the outriggers. The information I was given at the time, from a number of sources, is that the factory don't clean them properly before coating them and don't use any rust proofing.
You can get the chassis repaired. There are a number of people who will do this. All the people I spoke to claimed it was cheaper to repair than buy a new one. Plus you would have more confidence that the repairer would rust proof an re-coat the whole chassis to a much better standard than the factory.
>> Edited by icamm on Tuesday 15th March 20:54
You can get the chassis repaired. There are a number of people who will do this. All the people I spoke to claimed it was cheaper to repair than buy a new one. Plus you would have more confidence that the repairer would rust proof an re-coat the whole chassis to a much better standard than the factory.
>> Edited by icamm on Tuesday 15th March 20:54
gsw500 said:I'm sorry to hear of your problems. I just hope people can learn from this.
...... and even though the chassis has been waxoiled every year(according to service records)....
There are places on these chassis that are very difficult to waxoil. If the service centre is using spray on waxoil, as most do, they won't be getting any on the tops of the centre rails or the tops of the outriggers. Even paintbrush application is difficult and messy but it is possible to get a long bristled brush to go round some very awkward corners.
With waxoil there's only one way to know the job has been done properly, DIY.
Once you get it fixed, I suggest you wrap the manifold headers with exhaust wrap - this will cut down the incidence of heat cracking the powder coat.
This is a known problem, and one of the reasons I wrapped mine soon after I bought it (from new)
Touch wood, this seems to have worked - no visible rust yet after 5 years (car lives outside in Scotland, driven all winter etc)
This is a known problem, and one of the reasons I wrapped mine soon after I bought it (from new)
Touch wood, this seems to have worked - no visible rust yet after 5 years (car lives outside in Scotland, driven all winter etc)
If the engine is out, cant you get the damaged areas repaired by sleeving them (similar repair to the outriggers).
IMHO, its not only the heat that causes this, but mainly that water is allowed to drain onto this area. I try to channel the water away towards the front & away from the chassis. Cable ties also show signs of breaking the protective coating, try and put some padding under them to stop them rubbing on the chassis.
Dave
IMHO, its not only the heat that causes this, but mainly that water is allowed to drain onto this area. I try to channel the water away towards the front & away from the chassis. Cable ties also show signs of breaking the protective coating, try and put some padding under them to stop them rubbing on the chassis.
Dave
tvrbob said:
With waxoil there's only one way to know the job has been done properly, DIY.
Here here - and even if you do get waxoyl onto the chassis rails here it'll burn/melt/run straight off. Best to keep an eye on the area and clean/paint it as necessary.
Wrapping manifolds as another poster says also helps.
any tvr that is say older than 6 ot 7 years old will be buggered in the chassis department if it has lived outside and been driven in all types of conditions - they really are just a dry day car from the point of view of if they get wet the rot like hell - just caught mine in time and that is only 6 years old and once done will not be seeing any rain if I can help it and be garaged - if not it will be junk by ten years old. Doing mine for peace of mine for stupid house power going in it - but same apples to all - don't drive in the rain! If you intend keeping it!!
Thanks guys for your feedback. 
Sorry its taken so long to reply have been extremely busy.
Latest update:
Griff now at the V8 centre in High Wycombe for a body off job. Having top chassis rails cut out from bell housing to front past top wishbone mounts...Yes its that bad..!
Whole chassis will be checked over while body off and then powder coated plus a proper waxoil.
Have managed to source some heat shield material so any excess material will be used to wrap new top rails.
Will post up some pics of work asap.
Would just like to warn others of this potential problem as I have been reliably assured it is a design error. Check, Check and treble Check those top chassis rails directly adjacent to manifolds as the heat WILL burn off any protection.
Cheers.
Gsw500
Sorry its taken so long to reply have been extremely busy.
Latest update:
Griff now at the V8 centre in High Wycombe for a body off job. Having top chassis rails cut out from bell housing to front past top wishbone mounts...Yes its that bad..!
Whole chassis will be checked over while body off and then powder coated plus a proper waxoil.
Have managed to source some heat shield material so any excess material will be used to wrap new top rails.
Will post up some pics of work asap.
Would just like to warn others of this potential problem as I have been reliably assured it is a design error. Check, Check and treble Check those top chassis rails directly adjacent to manifolds as the heat WILL burn off any protection.
Cheers.
Gsw500
gsw500 said:
Thanks guys for your feedback.
Sorry its taken so long to reply have been extremely busy.
Latest update:
Griff now at the V8 centre in High Wycombe for a body off job. Having top chassis rails cut out from bell housing to front past top wishbone mounts...Yes its that bad..!
Whole chassis will be checked over while body off and then powder coated plus a proper waxoil.
Have managed to source some heat shield material so any excess material will be used to wrap new top rails.
Will post up some pics of work asap.
Would just like to warn others of this potential problem as I have been reliably assured it is a design error. Check, Check and treble Check those top chassis rails directly adjacent to manifolds as the heat WILL burn off any protection.
Cheers.
Gsw500
how much will all that cost if you don't mind me asking? I think I'll be off to check mine today. He lives in the garage though. The outriggers and wishbones on mine are OK, but I haven't checked up there.
Guillotine said:
wouldn't wrap the chassis,
will absorb water spray from wheels and hold moisture in!
this happens on manifolds too
andy
Thats what I thought too Andy so I think we will have to come up with an alternative solution.. maybe thats one for the more technical guys out there to throw in a few suggestions.
Thanks for your kind comments MikeyT, I do intend keeping him 'need to get my moneys worth after this'..!
Some of you have asked how much the work is costing but to be honest its early days yet and havent got a total figure, will post up detailed work and costings through my profile once complete.
Gsw500
GSW500,
I had a look at your car on Thursday, and I was very surprised to find the holes you had and where they were, the first one of those I have seen.
Sorry for the woes, Perry seems very confident they can sort it though ... and at least you can be confident it is right !!
Best of luck.
Cheers
Johno
I had a look at your car on Thursday, and I was very surprised to find the holes you had and where they were, the first one of those I have seen.
Sorry for the woes, Perry seems very confident they can sort it though ... and at least you can be confident it is right !!
Best of luck.
Cheers
Johno
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