push button start
Author
Discussion

ric p

Original Poster:

711 posts

298 months

Tuesday 12th April 2005
quotequote all
Yes, I know it been asked before but does anyone have a wiring diagram to install a push button starter for a 400se. It is a Ford ignition barrel and has 4 inputs / outputs. A red 12v live followed by a blue/yellow, yellow and a blue/black. Which of the last 3 is the feed to starter relay as I need that and the live for a feed to the start switch.

Many thanks for the help.

wonderland

97 posts

263 months

Tuesday 12th April 2005
quotequote all
Not sure if it would work, but I fitted a push button starter into a new mini bought from www.coolnew.co.uk

very simple to fit, clamped onto the ignition wires, but needed the keys in the ignition and didn't switch off the engine, only started

Just as a gimmick and to look a bit cooler it was great, took about 30 minutes to fit too

gemini

11,352 posts

293 months

Tuesday 12th April 2005
quotequote all
speak with TVRbob

tvrbob

11,197 posts

284 months

Tuesday 12th April 2005
quotequote all
You need to be careful. Most off-the-shelf units don't have a built in interlock to prevent the button from being activated when the engine is running. I do have a wiring diagram but you need to be a reasonably competent electrician to build it. It uses two relays, one to provide power to the starter solenoid, the other to detect whether the engine is running. If you choose a start button with a built in lamp you can wire it through the detector relay so that the light only comes on when the engine is ready to start.

The wiring diagram is on another PC so I can't get to it just yet.

ric p

Original Poster:

711 posts

298 months

Tuesday 12th April 2005
quotequote all
Thanks for the info - I'd be interested in the wiring diagram. However I'm only (currently) intending to wire the start relay circuit to the push button, the ignition circuit would remain on the key. Activating the starter motor with the engine running would still be possible as is currently the case with the key. However if it is relatively simple to deactivate the starter circuit when the engine is running with another relay, I'd be interested.
If anyone knows the wire colours for the Ford ignition barrel I'd be grateful, however.

tvrbob

11,197 posts

284 months

Tuesday 12th April 2005
quotequote all
There are several ways to detect whether the engine is running. If you're already in the dashboard then just pickup the signal wire to the oil pressure light. (Ignition is often too weak a signal or wrong polarity to make simple logic work) There will be a signal out of the ECU if you can find it. Use this signal to power the interlock relay and use this relay contacts to interrupt supply to the coil of the main relay. Oil light is a good choice because it is live when you want to start the engine and dead when you don't

Logic then says when the oil pressure light is on the engine start relay can receive power from the start button through the interlock relay contacts. A second contact is required on the start switch to hold the interlock relay whilst the button is depressed. Once the engine is started the oil light goes out, the interlock relay is deactivated and so no power can get from the start button to the main relay.

Fairly simple but you will need to have the second set of contacts to hold the interlock relay because oil pressure is built up during engine cranking and so the oil light will often go out before the engine is running. Power to the switch second contact needs to come from the second pair of contacts on the interlock relay. That way the lock can only engage if first engaged when the oil light is on.

Sorry to be so long winded about it. Logic is better described by diagram.


>> Edited by tvrbob on Tuesday 12th April 19:11

david beer

3,982 posts

296 months

Tuesday 12th April 2005
quotequote all
You can use the "charge light" often called ignition, use it for the neg return for the relay, that way only one relay and it will not work when the light is off. If you tap the wrong side of the light, the system will simply not work. I understand ford alternators are a little slow to go off, but shouldnt be a problem.

tvrbob

11,197 posts

284 months

Tuesday 12th April 2005
quotequote all
david beer said:
You can use the "charge light" often called ignition, use it for the neg return for the relay, that way only one relay and it will not work when the light is off. If you tap the wrong side of the light, the system will simply not work. I understand ford alternators are a little slow to go off, but shouldnt be a problem.
Sometimes yes and sometimes no. I avoided this route because a wise PHer told me some alternator configurations use the current draw on this circuit to switch the alternator charge circuit. Adding a relay coil increases the current and causes the switch to flip over too early. You can use this signal to trigger an electronic switch, which in turn powers the relay.

david beer

3,982 posts

296 months

Tuesday 12th April 2005
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I can only say, not had a single problem with my car or any others.

wedg1e

27,034 posts

294 months

Tuesday 12th April 2005
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If it was me, I'd use the alternator warning lamp feed, buffered by a transistor to avoid upsetting the alternator.
You could wire it such that the lamp in the start switch replaced the existing ignition lamp...
'Course, those of us with Clifford alarms can simply activate the remote engine start before we even get into the car...

K1 CERB

579 posts

287 months

Tuesday 12th April 2005
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I installed one from EliseParts.com for the Webmisstress (too may SSs) Lotus. The Instructions were Easy to follow, even if the 'real' car is not the same as the car in the instructions....You need one of these buttons!

Am happy to help you via the fone/email.

K1 CERB