Discussion
You and me too! I am sort of gearing up for this during the winter months. Just trying to work out if I can do it in the garage with a heater on! Might try to get the car jacked up on 4 x axle stands and do it one side at a time. Reckon I will invest in one of those rip-proof paper overalls and a david beckham bobble-less hat 
to keep all the sh!t off. Like you I was thinking in terms of scrape/clean all the bare/rusty metal bits then Hammerite and waxoil with one of their spray gun things. Rich...
to keep all the sh!t off. Like you I was thinking in terms of scrape/clean all the bare/rusty metal bits then Hammerite and waxoil with one of their spray gun things. Rich... 
Just did part of my chassis recently. My top tip would be to get a full face visor mask (screwfix £5 ish) stops the flakes of rust going in your nose / mouth / ears and also appears to mist up less than goggles.
Also be careful with the car on 4 axle stands, if they are all pointing in the same direction (i.e.the triangles on the floor) it is possible that the car may be relatively unstable in one direction.
cheers
Also be careful with the car on 4 axle stands, if they are all pointing in the same direction (i.e.the triangles on the floor) it is possible that the car may be relatively unstable in one direction.
cheers
quote:Ah but did they just spray over the rusty bits? I'd happily get someone to do it but I just can't believe they wire brush and scrape away all the flakey powder coat and Hammerite the bare metal for that price. Do they? Rich...
Only cost me £80 to get someone else to do it......... Waxoyling is the sort of job why God invented the Yellow pages
>> Edited by RichB on Friday 27th September 17:19
Hi,
Following is my method for "waxoiling" my Griff:
I spray clear waxoil on the underbody frame of my Griff each year. I bought a 5 litre can of the stuff several years ago and still have some left. I tried the proper waxoil sprayer but did not get on with it. What I use now is a common trigger pump sprayer (the type that have a 500ml bottle and come with spray on weed killer or similar). Make sure the sprayer is clean and dry and then fill with 75% waxoil and 25% white spirit.
Normally I jack the car up on one side and take both wheels off to give me clear access to the frame tubes. Put down newspaper and wear old clothes as this is a dirty job. Clean off the tubes with a stiff dustpan brush and use a wooden stick to poke up and clear through the various cavities behind the tubes. If you need to clear rust patches or paint any bare metal then you need to do this now. When any new paint (Hamerite or similar) has fully dried you can start the waxoiling. Get under the car and spray the mixture all over the tubes making sure that it also goes above and behind the tubes between the floor pan/bodywork.
The most vunerable areas seem to be the tube outriggers behind the front wheels, the front wishbones (of course) and the rear frame in front of the rear wheel. Take care not to get any of the waxoil mix on the brake rotors or pads as this will contaminate them. Also keep clear of the exhaust system if you can as white sprit and high temps don't mix well - mind you the white spirit will evaporate off over a couple of days. I also spray the mix over the fuel pump and electrical connections and so far this has kept working with no problems at all.
The whole job (both sides) should take no more than a couple of hours graft. And your Griff will be protected from further external corrosion for about 12 months give or take a bit.
Regards
Mike
Following is my method for "waxoiling" my Griff:
I spray clear waxoil on the underbody frame of my Griff each year. I bought a 5 litre can of the stuff several years ago and still have some left. I tried the proper waxoil sprayer but did not get on with it. What I use now is a common trigger pump sprayer (the type that have a 500ml bottle and come with spray on weed killer or similar). Make sure the sprayer is clean and dry and then fill with 75% waxoil and 25% white spirit.
Normally I jack the car up on one side and take both wheels off to give me clear access to the frame tubes. Put down newspaper and wear old clothes as this is a dirty job. Clean off the tubes with a stiff dustpan brush and use a wooden stick to poke up and clear through the various cavities behind the tubes. If you need to clear rust patches or paint any bare metal then you need to do this now. When any new paint (Hamerite or similar) has fully dried you can start the waxoiling. Get under the car and spray the mixture all over the tubes making sure that it also goes above and behind the tubes between the floor pan/bodywork.
The most vunerable areas seem to be the tube outriggers behind the front wheels, the front wishbones (of course) and the rear frame in front of the rear wheel. Take care not to get any of the waxoil mix on the brake rotors or pads as this will contaminate them. Also keep clear of the exhaust system if you can as white sprit and high temps don't mix well - mind you the white spirit will evaporate off over a couple of days. I also spray the mix over the fuel pump and electrical connections and so far this has kept working with no problems at all.
The whole job (both sides) should take no more than a couple of hours graft. And your Griff will be protected from further external corrosion for about 12 months give or take a bit.
Regards
Mike
quote:Good point! Perhaps I will put one end on stands and lift the other up onto the ramps? R...
Also be careful with the car on 4 axle stands, if they are all pointing in the same direction (i.e.the triangles on the floor) it is possible that the car may be relatively unstable in one direction.
cheers
quote:
Normally I jack the car up on one side and take both wheels off to give me clear access to the frame tubes. Put down newspaper and wear old clothes as this is a dirty job. Clean off the tubes with a stiff dustpan brush and use a wooden stick to poke up and clear through the various cavities behind the tubes. If you need to clear rust patches or paint any bare metal then you need to do this now. When any new paint (Hamerite or similar) has fully dried you can start the waxoiling. Get under the car and spray the mixture all over the tubes making sure that it also goes above and behind the tubes between the floor pan/bodywork.
Mike
Have just done mine like mike says jacked up one side As room in my garage is tight.
I use the waxoyle kit from somewhare like Halfords and have found it to be ok aslong as you clean it well after,mikes tip of mixing with white spirits is a good idea as i think it leaves a bit of a thinner coat and isnt so bad to get off if u need to get to connectors etc.
I think the results with the hammerite are all down to preperation,make sure u get all rust off and if painting over old paint rough it up a bit so the hammerite will have something to grip to.
Make sure everything is clean from dirt/grease etc before applying and get to or three layers on,i was waiting about 30mins before doing next coat so u need to make sure u have a couple of hours to get all the coats in.
BB
BB
quote:
Only cost me £80 to get someone else to do it.........
Waxoyling is the sort of job why God invented the Yellow pages
Quite! Actually I got SHG to clean, repaint and waxoyl my chassis. It was probably a bit more than £80 but not much. They did a much more thorough and professional job than I would ever have had the patience to do.
Therefore not taking that much time todo and saving yourself £100 every year for something u can never be that sure they have done properly anyhow. quote:
quote:Ah but did they just spray over the rusty bits? I'd happily get someone to do it but I just can't believe they wire brush and scrape away all the flakey powder coat and Hammerite the bare metal for that price. Do they? Rich...
Only cost me £80 to get someone else to do it......... Waxoyling is the sort of job why God invented the Yellow pages
>> Edited by RichB on Friday 27th September 17:19
It's the same mechanics/engineers that service and maintain the car, so they just added the cost on to my winter service.
They showed me under the car before and after so I'm quite happy.
quote:
Thanks for the tips guys, I intend to do my Griff for the first time this winter. Two questions, first I assume you use the black hammerite, and secondly is Halfords the best place to buy the waxoyl and spray kit?
Cheers,
Steve
Its really up to you what colour you hammerite the chassis but TVR did use a different colour each year My 91 S3 was red and My 96 Griffith is silver. I have seen some nice examples in the engine bay where two different colours have been used.
AS for waxoyle i got mine from Halfords.
BB
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