What wheel std's does a Griff / Chim use?

[jellison]

And are these easy to change, maybe just going to put a 2 or 3mm spacer on the front to stop 16" x 7.5" rears (on the front, just catching the wishbones on full lock).

But gets me thinking, I'd like to push the backs out maybe 1/2" each side for the later car look (more inline with the body than earlier cars) for that any thicker spacer than the above would need longer studs.

[slikk]

Dont know what size they are, but IIRC they push through from the back and are splined into the flange. A bit of penetrating oil and a tap with a soft hammer should get them out.

kim

[jellison]

but does the hub have to come off on the back - can be a sod, maybe different front and rear.

I have change alot on my TR and mini lust wondering how easy / hard on front and rear of Chim / Griff.

[nztrev]

Changed mine last year,and for the life of me can't find the invoice as to size,thread type.
I think you'd be better taking the hubs of,the rears are bitch'es,get a fat friend to sit on a scaffold bar'ed wrench and make sure your undoing the right way(opposite threaded to the drive)
I would'nt bash them out use a press or vice.

[jellison]

Hmm - not top of list - may just use a very thin spacer as per front so all the same.

[GreenV8S]

Lock stop might be easier?

[jellison]

But even worse turning circle - can't spin it round all the time!

[Pum]

The discs are Sierra ABS 260mm items. I kinda assumed that therefore the entire hub assemblies were also from Sierra, but I could be wrong there. If they are Sierra then a Sierra workshop manual or other such source should yeild the info.

Instead of spacers you might consider 3 piece rims with a different offset.

[tahiti450]

jellison said:

And are these easy to change, maybe just going to put a 2 or 3mm spacer on the front to stop 16" x 7.5" rears (on the front, just catching the wishbones on full lock). But gets me thinking, I'd like to push the backs out maybe 1/2" each side for the later car look (more inline with the body than earlier cars) for that any thicker spacer than the above would need longer studs.

Have you considered the effect on any change in offset that the spacers would cause on the front suspension / steering geometry? (although if only 2-3mm this is likely to be negligable)

I am using 10mm spacers at the front of mine to obtain the correct offset on the BK 299s (7 x 17" at front). Needed to fit longer studs (M12 x 1.5mm IIRC). Not a problem doing the fronts in situ, putting a spare nut on the stud (to protect it)and hammering deftly (tho' I agree that ideally this would be done in a press but that would entail removing the flanges). New studs can be pulled in and seated using another nut and suitable spacer and wound into place. Make very sure that the studs have fully seated before mounting the wheel otherwise you could think the wheel is tightened, only for the studs to settle in and end up with a loose wheel...
I am also using a 5mm spacer at the rear (mainly for the cosmetic reasons you mention). In the case of my particular wheel the standard studs are sufficiently long.
In general the rule of thumb with threaded things is that the length of thread needed to engage in the nut should be >= 1.5 x diameter of the thread. e.g; in case of M12 that would be 18mm of available thread. So it might be worth measuring the dimensions first to see if you actually need longer studs.


>> Edited by tahiti450 on Tuesday 19th July 17:20

[shpub]

Might want to check with your insurers first as they get very twitchy about wheel spacers.

[jellison]

Cheers All