Chimaera 450 Buying Advice
Discussion
Going to look at a Chim for the second time on Friday, I've done my homework and trawled the forums here so I have some idea what to look out for. I also have a good general knowledge as an automotive engineer but I thought it would only be sensible to ask some owners for some pointers before I splash my hard earned (loan).
It's a 450 with PAS and Aircon, Griff wheels, 48k on a '98 R plate. I'm going to use it as an everyday driver, 10 miles to work, 10 miles back, probably about 7k miles a year in total. It will live in my garage every night.
I'm very encouraged by the posts from people using their Chim or Griff as an everyday car so that has put my mind at ease (I was concerned about salt and road crud attacking the chassis in the winter).
Is there anything in particular to look out for during the test drive apart from the usual? The last 450 I drove was nice, no rattles but had a notchy gearshift. 1st especially was difficult to find. Is this normal? It has already has the front wishbones replaced.
And yes I have discovered that when the car is not quite straight, half throttle in third is more than enough!
It's a 450 with PAS and Aircon, Griff wheels, 48k on a '98 R plate. I'm going to use it as an everyday driver, 10 miles to work, 10 miles back, probably about 7k miles a year in total. It will live in my garage every night.
I'm very encouraged by the posts from people using their Chim or Griff as an everyday car so that has put my mind at ease (I was concerned about salt and road crud attacking the chassis in the winter).
Is there anything in particular to look out for during the test drive apart from the usual? The last 450 I drove was nice, no rattles but had a notchy gearshift. 1st especially was difficult to find. Is this normal? It has already has the front wishbones replaced.
And yes I have discovered that when the car is not quite straight, half throttle in third is more than enough!
I bought one similar '98 S Plate last year and totally recommend it.
I've had one 'problem' picked up during a service - steering rack.
Rare part so needed to be fully re-conditioned which was about £750 all-in.
So worth checking all is right in this area.
Otherwise no problems and loves daily driving.
Good luck.
I've had one 'problem' picked up during a service - steering rack.
Rare part so needed to be fully re-conditioned which was about £750 all-in.
So worth checking all is right in this area.
Otherwise no problems and loves daily driving.
Good luck.
Hi,
I've a '98 450 as my near-daily driver. (have another car for lugging stuff around).
I do around 16 miles each way to work and i recon i will have done around 7k this year.
Obviously driving a few different ones is a very good idea as it makes identifying a bad one a bit easier.
Obviously check the service history. If it has been well loved then that will make a big difference. (Mine had had Mobil 1 oil changes every 3k which was nice)
The gearbox on the latter Chim's is a Getrag T5 box which is pretty tough. Due to the very short gear leaver they have quite a firm change but every gear should have a positive feel (including first!)
Yes if you use your car in the rain / winter it will get more dirt on it but you need to offset that with parking it in the garage all winter and then possibly finding you have mechanical problems due to the lay-up. Plus giving your chassis a good inspection each year and touching up any flaked paint etc will keep it in good condition.
Make sure the cooling works ok.. All the guages read slightly different so i wouldnt give exact figures, but the car should keep between 70 and 90 ish degrees when running and the fans should cut in around 90 and not let the engine go hotter than 95..
When i bought mine i let it idle for a good while to ensure the temperature didnt climb!
At the end of the day if you have taken all reasonable precautions in buying a decent one then be brave and take the plunge.
If you have any real genuine reservations either get the car professionally inspected for peace of mine or walk away. There is quite a nice selection of Chim's for sale so there will always be another nice one turn up before too long.
Hope that helps.
Cheers,
Nick
I've a '98 450 as my near-daily driver. (have another car for lugging stuff around).
I do around 16 miles each way to work and i recon i will have done around 7k this year.
Obviously driving a few different ones is a very good idea as it makes identifying a bad one a bit easier.
Obviously check the service history. If it has been well loved then that will make a big difference. (Mine had had Mobil 1 oil changes every 3k which was nice)
The gearbox on the latter Chim's is a Getrag T5 box which is pretty tough. Due to the very short gear leaver they have quite a firm change but every gear should have a positive feel (including first!)
Yes if you use your car in the rain / winter it will get more dirt on it but you need to offset that with parking it in the garage all winter and then possibly finding you have mechanical problems due to the lay-up. Plus giving your chassis a good inspection each year and touching up any flaked paint etc will keep it in good condition.
Make sure the cooling works ok.. All the guages read slightly different so i wouldnt give exact figures, but the car should keep between 70 and 90 ish degrees when running and the fans should cut in around 90 and not let the engine go hotter than 95..
When i bought mine i let it idle for a good while to ensure the temperature didnt climb!
At the end of the day if you have taken all reasonable precautions in buying a decent one then be brave and take the plunge.
If you have any real genuine reservations either get the car professionally inspected for peace of mine or walk away. There is quite a nice selection of Chim's for sale so there will always be another nice one turn up before too long.
Hope that helps.
Cheers,
Nick
Fire99 said:Borg Warner (now Tremec) I believe....
Hi,............The gearbox on the latter Chim's is a Getrag T5 box which is pretty tough.
Fire99 said:Good idea
Plus giving your chassis a good inspection each year and touching up any flaked paint etc will keep it in good condition.
Fire99 said:
Make sure the cooling works ok.. All the guages read slightly different so i wouldnt give exact figures, but the car should keep between 70 and 90 ish degrees when running and the fans should cut in around 90 and not let the engine go hotter than 95..
When i bought mine i let it idle for a good while to ensure the temperature didnt climb!
Another Good Idea. All the gauges are generally inaccurate and vary (especially temp gauge) but do check the fans cut in and out.
Fire99 said:
......get the car professionally inspected for peace of mind
Rob Ingleby www.findasportscar.co.uk or James Agger www.jamesagger.com both highly respected on here.
If the gearbox is notchy, especially selecting first, check the clutch cylinders. Both have a habit of leaking. The first thing you notice is the clucth biting point going further down the pedal travel.
The master cylinder is encased in the inner wing, behind a panel that will be screwed and sealed in place. The pedal end can be seen from the footwell though and if it's leaking you'll see clutch fluid there.
The slave cylinder is mounted near the starter motor, on the offside. If you can get the car up in the air it's easy to see if it's leaking. Both are easily available and fairly inexpensive to replace. In fact there's an £8 repair kit for the master cylinder (based on a sixties Girling unit) that works perfectly if the cylinder is not too badly scored.
The master cylinder is encased in the inner wing, behind a panel that will be screwed and sealed in place. The pedal end can be seen from the footwell though and if it's leaking you'll see clutch fluid there.
The slave cylinder is mounted near the starter motor, on the offside. If you can get the car up in the air it's easy to see if it's leaking. Both are easily available and fairly inexpensive to replace. In fact there's an £8 repair kit for the master cylinder (based on a sixties Girling unit) that works perfectly if the cylinder is not too badly scored.
If the gearbox is notchy, especially selecting first, check the clutch cylinders. Both have a habit of leaking. The first thing you notice is the clucth biting point going further down the pedal travel.
The master cylinder is encased in the inner wing, behind a panel that will be screwed and sealed in place. The pedal end can be seen from the footwell though and if it's leaking you'll see clutch fluid there.
The slave cylinder is mounted near the starter motor, on the offside. If you can get the car up in the air it's easy to see if it's leaking. Both are easily available and fairly inexpensive to replace. In fact there's an £8 repair kit for the master cylinder (based on a sixties Girling unit) that works perfectly if the cylinder is not too badly scored.
The master cylinder is encased in the inner wing, behind a panel that will be screwed and sealed in place. The pedal end can be seen from the footwell though and if it's leaking you'll see clutch fluid there.
The slave cylinder is mounted near the starter motor, on the offside. If you can get the car up in the air it's easy to see if it's leaking. Both are easily available and fairly inexpensive to replace. In fact there's an £8 repair kit for the master cylinder (based on a sixties Girling unit) that works perfectly if the cylinder is not too badly scored.
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