Drive shaft boot replacement without removing the Driveshaft
Discussion
trackcar said:
but once you've undone the cv from the drive flange it's 30 seconds to get it off the shaft, it's one circlip!
if you can't do the whole job in half an hour you're not trying!
That's what I was going to say - it's hardly worth the grief of struggling for ages, when doing it the right way is actually quicker.
I remember reading years ago about a company selling boots that were split along one seam - so you wrapped it around and then sealed it with glue - but both edges of the boot had to be ABSOLUTELY clean and grease-free, or it just split and leaked. Again, I don't think it's worth cutting the corner - maybe on a car where boot replacement involves dismantling hubs etc but not on the normal TVR arrangement.
>> Edited by tvrgit on Monday 17th April 22:59
rev-erend said:
Sealey do a part called "Bootslider" BSL100 (20 ~ 95 mm) and BSL101 (25 ~ 105 mm) price will be £58 or £82 from Brown Brothers saves taking the shaft off the car.
It would take longer to go and buy that timesaving tool, than it would to remove the joint and change the boot "properly". As I said above, maybe worth it to save dismantling a hub etc but not for the TVR arrangement. I mean - 6 allen bolts and a circlip - how much easier does it get?
tvrgit said:
rev-erend said:
Sealey do a part called "Bootslider" BSL100 (20 ~ 95 mm) and BSL101 (25 ~ 105 mm) price will be £58 or £82 from Brown Brothers saves taking the shaft off the car.
It would take longer to go and buy that timesaving tool, than it would to remove the joint and change the boot "properly". As I said above, maybe worth it to save dismantling a hub etc but not for the TVR arrangement. I mean - 6 allen bolts and a circlip - how much easier does it get?
I don't disagree with any of you.
80 quid is too much for a tool you probably only use once. He will be breaking shafts rather than wearing then out anyway
Phil - yes got the mastic.
Ya - was waiting for your helpful comments!
This is not what I do for a living! I had a quick look that is all I'm sure it is all piss easy.
Thankfully I am gradually weening myself off of PH bit by bit, at least the TVR bits anyway! Yep ALOT more to life. When are you gonna build something off the wall then Joolz - we are all waiting!
>> Edited by jellison on Wednesday 19th April 13:11
This is not what I do for a living! I had a quick look that is all I'm sure it is all piss easy.
Thankfully I am gradually weening myself off of PH bit by bit, at least the TVR bits anyway! Yep ALOT more to life. When are you gonna build something off the wall then Joolz - we are all waiting!
>> Edited by jellison on Wednesday 19th April 13:11
jellison said:
I breaking shafts - er no way the wheel spin up saving load into the diff / driveshafts.
You would think so, wouldn't you? But no, in practice you can still break the half shafts and the more power you have the more likely this is to happen. The weak point seems to be a stress raiser at the outer circlip groove which leads to fatigue failure.
GreenV8S said:Er I'll take it easy then!
jellison said:
I breaking shafts - er no way the wheel spin up saving load into the diff / driveshafts.
You would think so, wouldn't you? But no, in practice you can still break the half shafts and the more power you have the more likely this is to happen. The weak point seems to be a stress raiser at the outer circlip groove which leads to fatigue failure.
Hope to have it all sorted for Abingdon! All this minor stuff below and the engine / box in and out new mega clutch and large bore hydrualic release hose (Mega power Holden / Vett problem that I have at VERY high revs!).
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No, unbolt the body of the CV from the flange. 