Laying up for a year
Discussion
I'm feeling a little disheartened at present..
Last night I was advised that my Cam is buggered and needs replacing, job all done upwards of a K.
Bottom line - I simply can't afford to do it at the moment. Period.
I have come to the conclusion that I have 2 options. The first is to sell the car which I obviously don't want to do. The second is to keep it off the road until finances dictate otherwise, probably some time next year.
This is one of the more gutting dilemmas that I've experienced recently and can't see another way around the problem.
I am aware that a Griffith is happier being used than being stood still - SO...
What do I need to do in order to keep the Griffith as healthy as possible whilst it resides in its 4 walled home for the foreseeable ?
Last night I was advised that my Cam is buggered and needs replacing, job all done upwards of a K.
Bottom line - I simply can't afford to do it at the moment. Period.
I have come to the conclusion that I have 2 options. The first is to sell the car which I obviously don't want to do. The second is to keep it off the road until finances dictate otherwise, probably some time next year.
This is one of the more gutting dilemmas that I've experienced recently and can't see another way around the problem.
I am aware that a Griffith is happier being used than being stood still - SO...
What do I need to do in order to keep the Griffith as healthy as possible whilst it resides in its 4 walled home for the foreseeable ?
Gutted for you mate - that is not what you need. Running a TVR and a family is never an easy combination, especially as children tend to go funny if you neglect looking after
How much would a replacement cam(s?) cost by itself? If nothing else is damaged, I don't think it would be be the hardest job in the world (mind you I've only ever help on a 4 cylinder) to replace it yourself, time consuming and laborious but you could always ask for Buzz's help...
How much would a replacement cam(s?) cost by itself? If nothing else is damaged, I don't think it would be be the hardest job in the world (mind you I've only ever help on a 4 cylinder) to replace it yourself, time consuming and laborious but you could always ask for Buzz's help...
lazyitus said:
What do I need to do in order to keep the Griffith as healthy as possible whilst it resides in its 4 walled home for the foreseeable ?
Very sad news Jon. I seem to remember there was a recent article in Sprint by Andy Hills about laying his car completely up over winter (I seem to remember a V8S but much would still be valid no doubt). May be worth a review and he is on here under the name Mr Sheen IIRC.
Edited by Mustang Baz on Wednesday 9th August 14:17
lazyitus said:
I'm feeling a little disheartened at present..
Last night I was advised that my Cam is buggered and needs replacing, job all done upwards of a K.
Bottom line - I simply can't afford to do it at the moment. Period.
I have come to the conclusion that I have 2 options. The first is to sell the car which I obviously don't want to do. The second is to keep it off the road until finances dictate otherwise, probably some time next year.
This is one of the more gutting dilemmas that I've experienced recently and can't see another way around the problem.
I am aware that a Griffith is happier being used than being stood still - SO...
What do I need to do in order to keep the Griffith as healthy as possible whilst it resides in its 4 walled home for the foreseeable ?
Last night I was advised that my Cam is buggered and needs replacing, job all done upwards of a K.
Bottom line - I simply can't afford to do it at the moment. Period.
I have come to the conclusion that I have 2 options. The first is to sell the car which I obviously don't want to do. The second is to keep it off the road until finances dictate otherwise, probably some time next year.
This is one of the more gutting dilemmas that I've experienced recently and can't see another way around the problem.
I am aware that a Griffith is happier being used than being stood still - SO...
What do I need to do in order to keep the Griffith as healthy as possible whilst it resides in its 4 walled home for the foreseeable ?
I leave mine layed up during the winter and heres what I do on a weekly basis and why.
1) Run engine (not at idle) for 20 mins (not an option for you, but circulates the oil, stops the cam lobes from drying and rust forming, seals from drying out, charge battery) etc)
2) Open doors, boot to stop the seals sticking and then tearing when opened
3) Depress the clutch and run through the gears (stop linkages seizing)
4) If dry reverse car out of garage and depress brakes (stop seizing, discs rusting)
5) Turn steering from lock to lock, if possible while moving (stop seals drying out, moving puts less strain on PAS)
6) Move heater controls (stop seizing)
7) Make sure car is returned to a different spot in the garage to stop tyres flat spotting
8) Flash lights, indicators etc (stop relays seizing)
I also clean and condition the leather before laying up. I remove the mats and put Silica gel packs in the footwells and in the boot. The car is covered with a soft cotton sheet and then a lightweight plastic sheet (B&Q 2.98
) I am sure others can add other pampering riturals
Puff
Edited by puffsorted2 on Wednesday 9th August 14:18
puffsorted2 said:
lazyitus said:
I'm feeling a little disheartened at present..
Last night I was advised that my Cam is buggered and needs replacing, job all done upwards of a K.
Bottom line - I simply can't afford to do it at the moment. Period.
I have come to the conclusion that I have 2 options. The first is to sell the car which I obviously don't want to do. The second is to keep it off the road until finances dictate otherwise, probably some time next year.
This is one of the more gutting dilemmas that I've experienced recently and can't see another way around the problem.
I am aware that a Griffith is happier being used than being stood still - SO...
What do I need to do in order to keep the Griffith as healthy as possible whilst it resides in its 4 walled home for the foreseeable ?
Last night I was advised that my Cam is buggered and needs replacing, job all done upwards of a K.
Bottom line - I simply can't afford to do it at the moment. Period.
I have come to the conclusion that I have 2 options. The first is to sell the car which I obviously don't want to do. The second is to keep it off the road until finances dictate otherwise, probably some time next year.
This is one of the more gutting dilemmas that I've experienced recently and can't see another way around the problem.
I am aware that a Griffith is happier being used than being stood still - SO...
What do I need to do in order to keep the Griffith as healthy as possible whilst it resides in its 4 walled home for the foreseeable ?
I leave mine layed up during the winter and heres what I do on a weekly basis and why.
1) Run engine (not at idle) for 20 mins (not an option for you, but circulates the oil, stops the cam lobes from drying and rust forming, seals from drying out, charge battery) etc)
2) Open doors, boot to stop the seals sticking and then tearing when opened
3) Depress the clutch and run through the gears (stop linkages seizing)
4) If dry reverse car out of garage and depress brakes (stop seizing, discs rusting)
5) Turn steering from lock to lock, if possible while moving (stop seals drying out, moving puts less strain on PAS)
6) Move heater controls (stop seizing)
7) Make sure car is returned to a different spot in the garage to stop tyres flat spotting
8) Flash lights, indicators etc (stop relays seizing)
I also clean and condition the leather before laying up. I remove the mats and put Silica gel packs in the footwells and in the boot. The car is covered with a soft cotton sheet and then a lightweight plastic sheet (B&Q 2.98
) I am sure others can add other pampering riturals
Puff
Edited by puffsorted2 on Wednesday 9th August 14:18
Wow - you've certinly got that all worked out!! got a clipboard with a tick list?!
TimmyArt said:
puffsorted2 said:
lazyitus said:
I'm feeling a little disheartened at present..
Last night I was advised that my Cam is buggered and needs replacing, job all done upwards of a K.
Bottom line - I simply can't afford to do it at the moment. Period.
I have come to the conclusion that I have 2 options. The first is to sell the car which I obviously don't want to do. The second is to keep it off the road until finances dictate otherwise, probably some time next year.
This is one of the more gutting dilemmas that I've experienced recently and can't see another way around the problem.
I am aware that a Griffith is happier being used than being stood still - SO...
What do I need to do in order to keep the Griffith as healthy as possible whilst it resides in its 4 walled home for the foreseeable ?
Last night I was advised that my Cam is buggered and needs replacing, job all done upwards of a K.
Bottom line - I simply can't afford to do it at the moment. Period.
I have come to the conclusion that I have 2 options. The first is to sell the car which I obviously don't want to do. The second is to keep it off the road until finances dictate otherwise, probably some time next year.
This is one of the more gutting dilemmas that I've experienced recently and can't see another way around the problem.
I am aware that a Griffith is happier being used than being stood still - SO...
What do I need to do in order to keep the Griffith as healthy as possible whilst it resides in its 4 walled home for the foreseeable ?
I leave mine layed up during the winter and heres what I do on a weekly basis and why.
1) Run engine (not at idle) for 20 mins (not an option for you, but circulates the oil, stops the cam lobes from drying and rust forming, seals from drying out, charge battery) etc)
2) Open doors, boot to stop the seals sticking and then tearing when opened
3) Depress the clutch and run through the gears (stop linkages seizing)
4) If dry reverse car out of garage and depress brakes (stop seizing, discs rusting)
5) Turn steering from lock to lock, if possible while moving (stop seals drying out, moving puts less strain on PAS)
6) Move heater controls (stop seizing)
7) Make sure car is returned to a different spot in the garage to stop tyres flat spotting
8) Flash lights, indicators etc (stop relays seizing)
I also clean and condition the leather before laying up. I remove the mats and put Silica gel packs in the footwells and in the boot. The car is covered with a soft cotton sheet and then a lightweight plastic sheet (B&Q 2.98
) I am sure others can add other pampering riturals
Puff
Edited by puffsorted2 on Wednesday 9th August 14:18
Wow - you've certinly got that all worked out!! got a clipboard with a tick list?!
Keeps me out of trouble
dickymint said:
Are you saying it is totally buggered or on it's way?
Its on its way - I thought (hoped) it was a blowing gasket but I went to see Ian at Middlewich and he (and mechanical friend) was pretty sure it was a cam/rocker problem. I have to trust Ian as I am not mechanically minded, so his opinion is respected.
I could possibly sort the rockers and leave the cam for later but this I see as potentially problematic as its only delaying the inevitable.
Tripps said:
How much would a replacement cam(s?) cost by itself? If nothing else is damaged, I don't think it would be be the hardest job in the world (mind you I've only ever help on a 4 cylinder) to replace it yourself, time consuming and laborious but you could always ask for Buzz's help...
I'm in no position to start doing jobs like this Rob. I find it difficult opening the bonnet sometimes, let alone changing a cam! Buzz is of a similar ilk - the chances of him being of any help are absolutely zero, he's been boxed in dry storage for winter now anyway. Mustang Baz said:
Very sad news Jon. I seem to remember there was a recent article in Sprint by Andy Hills about laying his car completely up over winter (I seem to remember a V8S but much would still be valid no doubt). May be worth a review and he is on here under the name Mr Sheen IIRC.
I'll delve through my issues to see if I can find that article - will be of great help. puffsorted 2 said:
I leave mine layed up during the winter and heres what I do on a weekly basis and why.
1) Run engine (not at idle) for 20 mins (not an option for you, but circulates the oil, stops the cam lobes from drying and rust forming, seals from drying out, charge battery) etc)
2) Open doors, boot to stop the seals sticking and then tearing when opened
3) Depress the clutch and run through the gears (stop linkages seizing)
4) If dry reverse car out of garage and depress brakes (stop seizing, discs rusting)
5) Turn steering from lock to lock, if possible while moving (stop seals drying out, moving puts less strain on PAS)
6) Move heater controls (stop seizing)
7) Make sure car is returned to a different spot in the garage to stop tyres flat spotting
8) Flash lights, indicators etc (stop relays seizing)
I also clean and condition the leather before laying up. I remove the mats and put Silica gel packs in the footwells and in the boot. The car is covered with a soft cotton sheet and then a lightweight plastic sheet (B&Q 2.98)
1) Run engine (not at idle) for 20 mins (not an option for you, but circulates the oil, stops the cam lobes from drying and rust forming, seals from drying out, charge battery) etc)
2) Open doors, boot to stop the seals sticking and then tearing when opened
3) Depress the clutch and run through the gears (stop linkages seizing)
4) If dry reverse car out of garage and depress brakes (stop seizing, discs rusting)
5) Turn steering from lock to lock, if possible while moving (stop seals drying out, moving puts less strain on PAS)
6) Move heater controls (stop seizing)
7) Make sure car is returned to a different spot in the garage to stop tyres flat spotting
8) Flash lights, indicators etc (stop relays seizing)
I also clean and condition the leather before laying up. I remove the mats and put Silica gel packs in the footwells and in the boot. The car is covered with a soft cotton sheet and then a lightweight plastic sheet (B&Q 2.98)
Very helpful PS2 - I will use this information for sure.
Edited by lazyitus on Wednesday 9th August 15:47
There's a section on this in the bible. In addition to the above I'd add:
Get the wheels off the ground - eg car on stands.
Turn the engine every 4 weeks or so, for up to 10 seconds at a time, certainly until the oil pressure ight goes off - disable fuel pump and optionally ignition.
Keep the battery charged.
If the garage is dry and warm I wouldn't worry about brakes and steering seizing. Worth pumping the clutch from time to time though.
Might also be worth putting a rodent trap down - you don't want your wiring being eaten.
Ideally you'd want fresh oil, brake/clutch fluid and anti-freeze in before the layup.
Might be worth getting an MOT before you lay it up. One less thing to contend with when you get it back on the road.
Get the wheels off the ground - eg car on stands.
Turn the engine every 4 weeks or so, for up to 10 seconds at a time, certainly until the oil pressure ight goes off - disable fuel pump and optionally ignition.
Keep the battery charged.
If the garage is dry and warm I wouldn't worry about brakes and steering seizing. Worth pumping the clutch from time to time though.
Might also be worth putting a rodent trap down - you don't want your wiring being eaten.
Ideally you'd want fresh oil, brake/clutch fluid and anti-freeze in before the layup.
Might be worth getting an MOT before you lay it up. One less thing to contend with when you get it back on the road.
Griffter said:
There's a section on this in the bible. In addition to the above I'd add:
Get the wheels off the ground - eg car on stands.
Turn the engine every 4 weeks or so, for up to 10 seconds at a time, certainly until the oil pressure ight goes off - disable fuel pump and optionally ignition.
Keep the battery charged.
If the garage is dry and warm I wouldn't worry about brakes and steering seizing. Worth pumping the clutch from time to time though.
Might also be worth putting a rodent trap down - you don't want your wiring being eaten.
Ideally you'd want fresh oil, brake/clutch fluid and anti-freeze in before the layup.
Might be worth getting an MOT before you lay it up. One less thing to contend with when you get it back on the road.
Get the wheels off the ground - eg car on stands.
Turn the engine every 4 weeks or so, for up to 10 seconds at a time, certainly until the oil pressure ight goes off - disable fuel pump and optionally ignition.
Keep the battery charged.
If the garage is dry and warm I wouldn't worry about brakes and steering seizing. Worth pumping the clutch from time to time though.
Might also be worth putting a rodent trap down - you don't want your wiring being eaten.
Ideally you'd want fresh oil, brake/clutch fluid and anti-freeze in before the layup.
Might be worth getting an MOT before you lay it up. One less thing to contend with when you get it back on the road.
Thanks for the good advice.
Changing a cam' on an RV8 is not a particularly difficult job, time consuming yes, but not difficult.
You might consider doing it yourself.
RPi are offering camshaft kits for around £250 inc' gaskets, followers and cam'.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/New-Rover-V8-Pi
Your best bet would be to call RPi and see their recommended cam' for the 5ltr: www.v8engines.com/
Alternatively there's Kent Cams: www.kentcams.com/ or Piper Cams: www.pipercams.co.uk/NewPiperWeb/redesign/PiperCamFrames.html
Tim
You might consider doing it yourself.
RPi are offering camshaft kits for around £250 inc' gaskets, followers and cam'.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/New-Rover-V8-Pi
Your best bet would be to call RPi and see their recommended cam' for the 5ltr: www.v8engines.com/
Alternatively there's Kent Cams: www.kentcams.com/ or Piper Cams: www.pipercams.co.uk/NewPiperWeb/redesign/PiperCamFrames.html
Tim
Edited by TT Tim on Wednesday 9th August 16:32
TT Tim said:
Changing a cam' on an RV8 is not a particularly difficult job, time consuming yes, but not difficult.
You might consider doing it yourself.
RPi are offering camshaft kits for around £250 inc' gaskets, followers and cam'.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/New-Rover-V8-Pi
Your best bet would be to call RPi and see their recommended cam' for the 5ltr: www.v8engines.com/
Alternatively there's Kent Cams: www.kentcams.com/ or Piper Cams: www.pipercams.co.uk/NewPiperWeb/redesign/PiperCamFrames.html
Tim
You might consider doing it yourself.
RPi are offering camshaft kits for around £250 inc' gaskets, followers and cam'.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/New-Rover-V8-Pi
Your best bet would be to call RPi and see their recommended cam' for the 5ltr: www.v8engines.com/
Alternatively there's Kent Cams: www.kentcams.com/ or Piper Cams: www.pipercams.co.uk/NewPiperWeb/redesign/PiperCamFrames.html
Tim
Intersting Tim - thanks for that..
Maybe all is not as bad as first appeared ?lazyitus said:
groucho said:
Pay for it on a CC, swap it over for a 0% for 12 months and job's your sister.
Slippery road IMO. I've considered this but where do you stop?
1K loan over a year, interest free. If I were in the same boat I wouldn't think twice about it. If you're worried about it being habit forming, just get the work done on the 0% card and then chop it up.
It's that or have the Griff off the road for a year. It sounds like you have to save up for the work, so what's the difference paying that money to the card?
groucho said:
so what's the difference paying that money to the card?
Its a fair point - its not just the Cam cost but it needs 2 tyres and I've already spent over a grand on it this year already.
The nipper is taking up a good amount of dough at the moment too - time to ease off and buy things that the whole family can enjoy, instead of being greedy.
lazyitus said:
groucho said:
so what's the difference paying that money to the card?
Its a fair point - its not just the Cam cost but it needs 2 tyres and I've already spent over a grand on it this year already.
The nipper is taking up a good amount of dough at the moment too - time to ease off and buy things that the whole family can enjoy, instead of being greedy.
Ahhh! Babies in the equation; Griffs and babies don't mix. I'm lucky, mine's 19 yrs now.
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