How do you adjust Nitron's
How do you adjust Nitron's
Author
Discussion

kevin63

Original Poster:

4,661 posts

283 months

Sunday 12th November 2006
quotequote all
How do you adjust Nitron shockers, can you do it on the car, or has the unit to come off, is it the knob on the top of the shocker, and how many adjustments.
Any advice appreciated , as would be a photo.

ricardo bertone

562 posts

240 months

Sunday 12th November 2006
quotequote all
Yes you adjust them on the car. You may have to slightly jack up the car at the rear to create enough space to get your hand onto the adjuster. There are about 22 clicks from hard(+) to soft(-) - always adjust from fully hard (+). You can mount Nitrons upside down i.e. less unsprung weight. When I was adjusting mine I started at halfway and experimented on different types of road/track until I got the best compromise for road use and the best setting for track use.

Ricardo

PS Go to Nitron webpage for more info and photos.

Edited by ricardo bertone on Sunday 12th November 20:36

ajp4.2

296 posts

243 months

Sunday 12th November 2006
quotequote all
kevin63 said:
How do you adjust Nitron shockers, can you do it on the car, or has the unit to come off, is it the knob on the top of the shocker, and how many adjustments.
Any advice appreciated , as would be a photo.

I have just done it for the second time.
Lie on floor using feel up springs there is a indented large nut if you turn clockwise it stiffens up anti clock to soften. They are easier if you know which angle and which hand to use (especially at the front)
Offside rear. Use Right hand in front of wheel
Nearside rear. Use Left hand in front of wheel
Offside front. Use Left hand behind wheel (The hardest to do)
Nearside front. Use Right hand behind wheel

Mine were on I think 4-5 clicks from soft at rear (set up by TVR Power)
I tried 3 clicks harder & the difference is amazing. Just need a track now !!!!
I hope that helps. ( I will now carry a pair of gloves and a mat. It takes 2 minutes to do so experimenting is easy)

fairclp

654 posts

276 months

Sunday 12th November 2006
quotequote all
Hi Kevin,

Had my Nitrons for 3 weeks now. Much better than my old std!

Tried a few settings:

9 F, 9 R as came fitted. Not bad. But i was comparing them to the usless (as I now can feel) originals.
17F, 13R as recommended on a thread on here. Bit soft on front giving less steering and break feel with more noticable "dip" on the breaks.

Now got:

12F, 13R as set after "run in period" and the recommended settings (according to TVR Power).

This setting was good on the front for feel and took the M6 over passes' ('getti junc) gaps/humps/bulges/tram lines/general discracful road surface in it's stride.


Adjusting I found difficult. You need thin wrists and fingers. Some say you can reach through the wheels but I can't.

The rears you can reach though the wheel arch, the fronts I put on full left lock to do near and off-side.

Initially I've turned them fully clockwise as if you were looking down from above since I couldn't rely on a known setting. You might be able to see the + <--> -

This makes them hard. Then turn anticlockwise the required number of clicks. If you know your setting then two clicks harder then two clicks softer to the setting you want is quicker.

A bit of chain lube is recommended by some also, as some people have found them to stop clicking, whilst others say occasional adjustment should be made for the same reason.

Let us know what setting you have and what you set them to so we can all compare!

Cheers,

Paul




ajp4.2

296 posts

243 months

Sunday 12th November 2006
quotequote all
fairclp said:
Hi Kevin,

Had my Nitrons for 3 weeks now. Much better than my old std!

Tried a few settings:

9 F, 9 R as came fitted. Not bad. But i was comparing them to the usless (as I now can feel) originals.
17F, 13R as recommended on a thread on here. Bit soft on front giving less steering and break feel with more noticable "dip" on the breaks.

Now got:

12F, 13R as set after "run in period" and the recommended settings (according to TVR Power).

This setting was good on the front for feel and took the M6 over passes' ('getti junc) gaps/humps/bulges/tram lines/general discracful road surface in it's stride.


Adjusting I found difficult. You need thin wrists and fingers. Some say you can reach through the wheels but I can't.

The rears you can reach though the wheel arch, the fronts I put on full left lock to do near and off-side.

Initially I've turned them fully clockwise as if you were looking down from above since I couldn't rely on a known setting. You might be able to see the + <--> -

This makes them hard. Then turn anticlockwise the required number of clicks. If you know your setting then two clicks harder then two clicks softer to the setting you want is quicker.

A bit of chain lube is recommended by some also, as some people have found them to stop clicking, whilst others say occasional adjustment should be made for the same reason.

Let us know what setting you have and what you set them to so we can all compare!

Cheers,

Paul




ajp4.2

296 posts

243 months

Sunday 12th November 2006
quotequote all
fairclp said:
Hi Kevin,

Had my Nitrons for 3 weeks now. Much better than my old std!

Tried a few settings:

9 F, 9 R as came fitted. Not bad. But i was comparing them to the usless (as I now can feel) originals.
17F, 13R as recommended on a thread on here. Bit soft on front giving less steering and break feel with more noticable "dip" on the breaks.

Now got:

12F, 13R as set after "run in period" and the recommended settings (according to TVR Power).

This setting was good on the front for feel and took the M6 over passes' ('getti junc) gaps/humps/bulges/tram lines/general discracful road surface in it's stride.


Adjusting I found difficult. You need thin wrists and fingers. Some say you can reach through the wheels but I can't.

The rears you can reach though the wheel arch, the fronts I put on full left lock to do near and off-side.

Initially I've turned them fully clockwise as if you were looking down from above since I couldn't rely on a known setting. You might be able to see the + <--> -

This makes them hard. Then turn anticlockwise the required number of clicks. If you know your setting then two clicks harder then two clicks softer to the setting you want is quicker.

A bit of chain lube is recommended by some also, as some people have found them to stop clicking, whilst others say occasional adjustment should be made for the same reason.

Let us know what setting you have and what you set them to so we can all compare!

Cheers,

Paul


Are you quoting your 12F 13R clicks from fully anticlockwise (soft) or from fully clockwise (hard)

fairclp

654 posts

276 months

Sunday 12th November 2006
quotequote all
Just thought I mention that each model has it's own spring rates and therefore the damper setting may be different.

The Tuscan is 400 lbs/" front - same as T350. The rears are 325 which is softer than the T350's 350 lbs/". The Tamora is 325/325.



Edited by fairclp on Sunday 12th November 21:07

fairclp

654 posts

276 months

Sunday 12th November 2006
quotequote all
From hard. I was told to always adjust from hard.

Edited by fairclp on Sunday 12th November 21:02

ajp4.2

296 posts

243 months

Sunday 12th November 2006
quotequote all
Thanks I will try setting them from hard

kevin63

Original Poster:

4,661 posts

283 months

Sunday 12th November 2006
quotequote all
Thanks guys, you have answered everything i wanted to know and more.
That's the wonderful thing about pistonheads.