RE: Better cooling for TVR V8 engines
Monday 8th January 2007
Better cooling for TVR V8 engines
Steve Heath launches new heat shield
  Steve Heath's TVR V8 heat shield |
Steve Heath Engineering has released a new heat shield product for V8-engined TVRs.
A direct replacement for the original GRP heat shield that TVR fitted to help protect the fan belt from the heat from the exhaust, the aluminium plate offers durability, and has now protects the air flow meter as well as the fan belt and otter switch protected by the original unit. It also provides better protection for the swirl tank. Unlike the original, it isn't directly attached to the swirl tank or exhaust manifold and so doesn't suffer from direct heat transfer.
The heat shield wraps around the exhaust manifold and extends down about 100mm to protect the swirl tank and otter switch. This has two additional benefits: it ensures that the otter switch is not incorrectly triggered or damaged through excessive heat and helps prevent the water in the swirl tank from being heated by the exhaust, causing the engine to run hotter than it should.
Initial tests (January 2007) have shown that with the manifold reaching over 300 degrees C, the heat shield itself only reached 40 degrees C and that engine running temperatures have been lowered by about 5 to 10 degrees C.
This version is for Rover serpentine engines only, although a version for pre-serpentine engines is under development, according to Steve Heath.
They are easy to fit, said Heath, include full fitting instructions, and are available now.
The heat shield is available with a choice of logos etched into the top surface and costs £29.99 without etched logo and £39.99 with etched logo. Prices include UK delivery and VAT.
Discussion
Get it?? Seasider said:
Nice
but "and now protects the air flow meter"
It is twice as long as the original and helps prevent the AFM from the exhaust. Doing a temperature profile with an IR probe showed that the AFM itself was running about 20 or so degrees cooler with it in place. Hence the comment.
shpub said:
Seasider said:
Nice
but "and now protects the air flow meter"
It is twice as long as the original and helps prevent the AFM from the exhaust. Doing a temperature profile with an IR probe showed that the AFM itself was running about 20 or so degrees cooler with it in place. Hence the comment.
Marvellous
richb said:
How does it attach Steve?
It's bolted to the engine block using two of the bolts that hold the jockey wheel/PAS pump to the block. They are behind the pulley. Slacken them off. Slide heat shield in place. Tighten up. Just a couple of minutes to fit after the old one is removed.
I tried mounts on to the exhaust and swirl pot but the protection was greatly reduced due to heat conducting through the mount.
Guys
The best way to reduce heat under the bonnet is to wrap all the manifold and y-pipe right back to where the silencer joins the manifold (under passenger feet). it's a ball-ache of a job, five hours, 30m of laging and 20 stainless steel ty-wraps, but boy is it worth it. Cost for same...£60....makes massive reduction to both cockpit heat and engine running temp....I was in France this year at 42deg and never had a problem.....
Makes skinned knuckles a small price to pay...
Can give details of the supplier of coolwrap bandage and clips if required.
Mad griff
The best way to reduce heat under the bonnet is to wrap all the manifold and y-pipe right back to where the silencer joins the manifold (under passenger feet). it's a ball-ache of a job, five hours, 30m of laging and 20 stainless steel ty-wraps, but boy is it worth it. Cost for same...£60....makes massive reduction to both cockpit heat and engine running temp....I was in France this year at 42deg and never had a problem.....
Makes skinned knuckles a small price to pay...
Can give details of the supplier of coolwrap bandage and clips if required.
Mad griff
Mad Griff said:
Guys
The best way to reduce heat under the bonnet is to wrap all the manifold and y-pipe right back to where the silencer joins the manifold (under passenger feet). it's a ball-ache of a job, five hours, 30m of laging and 20 stainless steel ty-wraps, but boy is it worth it. Cost for same...£60....makes massive reduction to both cockpit heat and engine running temp....I was in France this year at 42deg and never had a problem.....
Makes skinned knuckles a small price to pay...
Can give details of the supplier of coolwrap bandage and clips if required.
Mad griff
The best way to reduce heat under the bonnet is to wrap all the manifold and y-pipe right back to where the silencer joins the manifold (under passenger feet). it's a ball-ache of a job, five hours, 30m of laging and 20 stainless steel ty-wraps, but boy is it worth it. Cost for same...£60....makes massive reduction to both cockpit heat and engine running temp....I was in France this year at 42deg and never had a problem.....
Makes skinned knuckles a small price to pay...
Can give details of the supplier of coolwrap bandage and clips if required.
Mad griff
imo this should only be done on stainless steel, because mild steel will rot away in no time
shpub said:
Seasider said:
Nice
but "and now protects the air flow meter"
It is twice as long as the original and helps prevent the AFM from the exhaust. Doing a temperature profile with an IR probe showed that the AFM itself was running about 20 or so degrees cooler with it in place. Hence the comment.
On a slightly related note I found that someone packed the airflow meter on my '93 Chim 4.3 in heat resistant material when I came to view it, my initial comment being 'now that looks a bit of a bodge... '
- so someone else must clearly have found it a worthwile idea... tvrski said:
Mad Griff said:
Guys
The best way to reduce heat under the bonnet is to wrap all the manifold and y-pipe right back to where the silencer joins the manifold (under passenger feet). it's a ball-ache of a job, five hours, 30m of laging and 20 stainless steel ty-wraps, but boy is it worth it. Cost for same...£60....makes massive reduction to both cockpit heat and engine running temp....I was in France this year at 42deg and never had a problem.....
Makes skinned knuckles a small price to pay...
Can give details of the supplier of coolwrap bandage and clips if required.
Mad griff
The best way to reduce heat under the bonnet is to wrap all the manifold and y-pipe right back to where the silencer joins the manifold (under passenger feet). it's a ball-ache of a job, five hours, 30m of laging and 20 stainless steel ty-wraps, but boy is it worth it. Cost for same...£60....makes massive reduction to both cockpit heat and engine running temp....I was in France this year at 42deg and never had a problem.....
Makes skinned knuckles a small price to pay...
Can give details of the supplier of coolwrap bandage and clips if required.
Mad griff
imo this should only be done on stainless steel, because mild steel will rot away in no time
Like mine did, blowing a 1 inch hole in both manifolds on the same journey. Never use induction wrap on mild steel unless your car never sees rain and lives in a de-humidified garage. Mine were in a right state. It happens fast too, when I inspected them 16 months previously there was no rust to be seen.
So can anyone enlighten me as to the difference to this system? [url]www.pistonheads.com/sales/123262.htm[url]
Which is better? Which is easier to fit?
I have just had my fanbelt replaced - it was shot - hard, cracked, inflexible. All due to heat damage.
I am sure some sort of heat shielding is a good idea, I'm just pondering whether to go for that nice SH engraved one or Clive's.
Alan
Which is better? Which is easier to fit?
I have just had my fanbelt replaced - it was shot - hard, cracked, inflexible. All due to heat damage.
I am sure some sort of heat shielding is a good idea, I'm just pondering whether to go for that nice SH engraved one or Clive's.
Alan
900T-R said:
shpub said:
Seasider said:
Nice
but "and now protects the air flow meter"
It is twice as long as the original and helps prevent the AFM from the exhaust. Doing a temperature profile with an IR probe showed that the AFM itself was running about 20 or so degrees cooler with it in place. Hence the comment.
On a slightly related note I found that someone packed the airflow meter on my '93 Chim 4.3 in heat resistant material when I came to view it, my initial comment being 'now that looks a bit of a bodge... '
- so someone else must clearly have found it a worthwile idea... I think I'd look at sheilding the engine mount, wishbone bushes and shock bushes along with this type of shield, as there must be more reflected heat going somewhere. I'm in the process or replacing my poly wishbone bushes for exactly this reason - they melted. And I have ceramic coated manifolds!
I can't help thinking it might be easier just to get some cool airflow into the engine bay somehow, then there would be less heat buildup in the first place. I don't think getting hot air out is the problem, getting cool air in (due to the small frontal area) is. Maybe a huge electric fan under the engine - ground effect anyone?!
apache said:
Was the standard heat shield introduced later on? our Griff never had a heat shield of any kind.......never needed one either
Dunno, mine was built in Jan/Feb '99 and hasn't got one, doesn't overheat either 42 deg in queues at Le Mans no problem etc. Was just thinking it might protect the starter motor a little? 
97octane said:
So can anyone enlighten me as to the difference to this system? [url]www.pistonheads.com/sales/123262.htm[url]
Which is better? Which is easier to fit?
I have just had my fanbelt replaced - it was shot - hard, cracked, inflexible. All due to heat damage.
I am sure some sort of heat shielding is a good idea, I'm just pondering whether to go for that nice SH engraved one or Clive's.
Alan
Looking at those (Clives) they look better cosmetically, but as they are attached to the exhaust I can't see them doing a lot, as they will be near as dammit as hot as the exhaust - the 1/2" air gap will help, but in the end they are mechanically fixed to the source of the heat, and heat soak is inevitable IMHO. Great to see people working on solutions to the Chim/Griff underbonnet heat problem though, so many failures are down to underbonnet temps (e.g. coils, engine mounts, wishbone bushes, HT leads). Which is better? Which is easier to fit?
I have just had my fanbelt replaced - it was shot - hard, cracked, inflexible. All due to heat damage.
I am sure some sort of heat shielding is a good idea, I'm just pondering whether to go for that nice SH engraved one or Clive's.
Alan
victormeldrew said:
(Clives)... look better cosmetically, but as they are attached to the exhaust I can't see them doing a lot, as they will be near as dammit as hot as the exhaust...
They look as though they would benefit from an asbestos lining (or whatever the acceptable version of asbestos is these days.) Gassing Station | General TVR Stuff & Gossip | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff