Oil Change Pre-Serp
Author
Discussion

groomvroom

Original Poster:

926 posts

281 months

Tuesday 30th January 2007
quotequote all
Hi Doing an oil change today on my 4.3, any vital tips for a pre-serp? Plus oil recomendations, I am not sure whats in her now but she has not used any oil in 3K miles. The car has done 32K miles. Also what size is the sump washer, I assume its a copper one?

Slikk

2,135 posts

273 months

Tuesday 30th January 2007
quotequote all
IIRC, there is a possibility that the oil pump can de-prime on pre-serps. The Bible tells you how to overcome this.

HTH

KIm

Roberto Rica

306 posts

237 months

Tuesday 30th January 2007
quotequote all
Hi groomvoom

Many owners use Mobil 1 Motorsport.

Rob

sonnylad

1,165 posts

255 months

Tuesday 30th January 2007
quotequote all
Priming tool for sale on Ebay, item number 280075781349

groomvroom

Original Poster:

926 posts

281 months

Tuesday 30th January 2007
quotequote all
Roberto Rica said:
Hi groomvoom

Many owners use Mobil 1 Motorsport.

Rob


Only the cooking Mobil One available around here, I found it to thin in my Cerb, made it noisy and used loads of it, I changed to Millers CFS 10-60 which is localy available, about £40 for 5.0l, any good in an older Rover V8. My Griff SE used a fully synthetic car lube product which is what was recomended in the hand book, 5-40 IIRC

toltec

7,179 posts

253 months

Tuesday 30th January 2007
quotequote all
Copper washer for the wedge is part no. 213961A which I suspect is the same.

[url]www.davidvincent.com[/url] sell P/N 213961L which supercedes the above and fit the 400SE OK.

They are rather cheaper than Rimmers too.

groomvroom

Original Poster:

926 posts

281 months

Tuesday 30th January 2007
quotequote all
All done now, turned the engine over without the king lead, pressure came up straight away. I however find a pretty bad oil leak, must have started very recently as I had not notice oil on the ground, plenty all over the chassis mind. Looked like it was coming from the oil filter but after changing the oil I see its coming from the oil presure switch, out the top where the spade terminal is, if I take the connector off it get worse. Can I change the swith without draining the oil again (having put £50 worth of oil in)?

spend

12,581 posts

281 months

Tuesday 30th January 2007
quotequote all
Yes, just dont leave it open for ages. You sure its the switch not the sensor (the sensor has an adapter which is a weak point)

Dave

groomvroom

Original Poster:

926 posts

281 months

Tuesday 30th January 2007
quotequote all
spend said:
Yes, just dont leave it open for ages. You sure its the switch not the sensor (the sensor has an adapter which is a weak point)

Dave


I can see two switches from underneath; the one closest to me is the one thats leaking, it has one spade terminal going into what looks to be a plastic body which has cracked. The one above is much larger and fatter I would imagine is the sender unit for the oil pressure gauge. I have ordered one from leven, couldn’t resist a set of SS kick plates for my Griff while I was at itcloud9

Rum Runner

2,347 posts

247 months

Tuesday 30th January 2007
quotequote all
I just got a magnetic sump plug and washer from Steve Heath £10. Probably a good option for you .

scooterscot

137 posts

238 months

Tuesday 30th January 2007
quotequote all
The small switch is for the oil light the large one for the pressure gauge. When changing the oil you MUST NEVER REMOVE THE FILTER AND EMPTY THE SUMP AT THE SAME TIME, as this will allow the pump to drain and can cause priming problems. Drain the sum and refill then remove the filter, make sure that you fill the filter with oil before you fit it.When fitting a new oil switch take care not to over tighten as they are tapered threads use a thread sealer as PTFE tape can cause problems with the electrical earth path back to the block. Use the Lanbrover filter or one that has a non return valve in it this stops the oil running back which help speed up oil pressure on start up.