Sealing water sytsem
Discussion
At the risk of a torrent of abuse....
I've recently had the heads off as part of a new cam fit, but the o/s head appears to be leaking coolant at the rear of the head as the engine cools down after switch off. I'm not sure if it's leaking whilst running as I dare say it would evaporate of the hot block. The leak is fairly minor (although bloody irritating after all that work) I reckon it drips about twice a second.
Now for the controversial bit. Would I be a complete arse using a bit of radweld / barrs leaks / ce-lit to stop it? I wouldn't normally consider this, but I am sure it was fitted correctly (it was far from my first!). A bit of searching has revealed leaking issues with tin type gaskets and non stretch bolts on the RV8. I was supplied non stretch bolts and head gaskets that didn't look as gucci as the original Land Rover ones. Could the above products work or have I been supplied crappy head gaskets?
I've recently had the heads off as part of a new cam fit, but the o/s head appears to be leaking coolant at the rear of the head as the engine cools down after switch off. I'm not sure if it's leaking whilst running as I dare say it would evaporate of the hot block. The leak is fairly minor (although bloody irritating after all that work) I reckon it drips about twice a second.
Now for the controversial bit. Would I be a complete arse using a bit of radweld / barrs leaks / ce-lit to stop it? I wouldn't normally consider this, but I am sure it was fitted correctly (it was far from my first!). A bit of searching has revealed leaking issues with tin type gaskets and non stretch bolts on the RV8. I was supplied non stretch bolts and head gaskets that didn't look as gucci as the original Land Rover ones. Could the above products work or have I been supplied crappy head gaskets?
CaptiV8ed said:
At the risk of a torrent of abuse....
I've recently had the heads off as part of a new cam fit, but the o/s head appears to be leaking coolant at the rear of the head as the engine cools down after switch off. I'm not sure if it's leaking whilst running as I dare say it would evaporate of the hot block. The leak is fairly minor (although bloody irritating after all that work) I reckon it drips about twice a second.
Now for the controversial bit. Would I be a complete arse using a bit of radweld / barrs leaks / ce-lit to stop it? I wouldn't normally consider this, but I am sure it was fitted correctly (it was far from my first!). A bit of searching has revealed leaking issues with tin type gaskets and non stretch bolts on the RV8. I was supplied non stretch bolts and head gaskets that didn't look as gucci as the original Land Rover ones. Could the above products work or have I been supplied crappy head gaskets?
I've recently had the heads off as part of a new cam fit, but the o/s head appears to be leaking coolant at the rear of the head as the engine cools down after switch off. I'm not sure if it's leaking whilst running as I dare say it would evaporate of the hot block. The leak is fairly minor (although bloody irritating after all that work) I reckon it drips about twice a second.
Now for the controversial bit. Would I be a complete arse using a bit of radweld / barrs leaks / ce-lit to stop it? I wouldn't normally consider this, but I am sure it was fitted correctly (it was far from my first!). A bit of searching has revealed leaking issues with tin type gaskets and non stretch bolts on the RV8. I was supplied non stretch bolts and head gaskets that didn't look as gucci as the original Land Rover ones. Could the above products work or have I been supplied crappy head gaskets?
Are you sure its not coming from the inlet manifold somewhere? Maybe the pipes that run underneath? I always go round hoseclips after the engine has been through a couple of heat cycles, and tighten up a bit. Who supplied the gaskets? I'd want to find the cause before deciding on a cure.
7.
The problem is any rad cure you use is only temporary,bite the bullit and fit proper gaskets at least from a RV8 specialist like Realsteel take the advice they suggest,if you have to use a leak stopper(and thats a big if) to get you out of trouble the only one i can say does what it says without causing no downsides and i have had good success with is Wynns radiator stop leak,its a blue liquid with fine grains in,now before anyone gets on there soap box
i would do the right thing and fix the leak, but if this guy is stuck this may help and does not clog up the small drillings in the cooling system like Ba*s leak which i would def not recommend(seen to many clogged heater matrix units for this)good luck CaptiV8ed,and yes i do know what those back pains and leg aches are like from leaning over the wings for long periods feels like
i would do the right thing and fix the leak, but if this guy is stuck this may help and does not clog up the small drillings in the cooling system like Ba*s leak which i would def not recommend(seen to many clogged heater matrix units for this)good luck CaptiV8ed,and yes i do know what those back pains and leg aches are like from leaning over the wings for long periods feels likeNo 7,
I've already done the inlet manifold gasket again, as it was definately leaking from there. There are no pipes running under the inlet manifold to worry about. This is deffo coming from the back of the head. The gaskets came as extras to a cam kit from V8D.
That Daddy,
I only ask about using this as the leak is very minor. Stop leak claims to seal weeping cylinder head gaskets.
As an engineer, I bulk at the thought of using a crappy fix like this. But I'm concerned about it happening again if I go through the whole process again of changing the head gasket. I'm pi$$ed off enough at having had to redo the inlet one!
I've already done the inlet manifold gasket again, as it was definately leaking from there. There are no pipes running under the inlet manifold to worry about. This is deffo coming from the back of the head. The gaskets came as extras to a cam kit from V8D.
That Daddy,
I only ask about using this as the leak is very minor. Stop leak claims to seal weeping cylinder head gaskets.
As an engineer, I bulk at the thought of using a crappy fix like this. But I'm concerned about it happening again if I go through the whole process again of changing the head gasket. I'm pi$$ed off enough at having had to redo the inlet one!
Quinny, I agree. To undo the original stretch took a herculean effort and when doing up the non stretch type, it was a case of "is that really enough?" I see on your rebuild website that you were advised to use the stretch type. Can I ask if there was any particular reason why?
Do you think I could replace the bolts by loosening them off halfway then replacing one while the other nine are still clamping down fairly tightly?
Do you think I could replace the bolts by loosening them off halfway then replacing one while the other nine are still clamping down fairly tightly?
Edited by CaptiV8ed on Monday 7th May 08:54
I cant see that being a problem as long as you do one at a time,the stretch type have another benefit in that they retain the clamping force for a longer period of time(remember to lube under the bolt head where it meets the washer or face),all bolts stretch to a degree but the proper stretch type are far better suited to securing cylinder heads (expansion/contraction etc etc)just hope it fixes your problem
i think that engine as consumed enough of your labour with out much more
i think that engine as consumed enough of your labour with out much more
Quinny said:
CaptiV8ed said:
Quinny, I agree. To undo the original stretch took a herculean effort and when doing up the non stretch type, it was a case of "is that really enough?" I see on your rebuild website that you were advised to use the stretch type. Can I ask if there was any particular reason why?
Do you think I could replace the bolts by loosening them off halfway then replacing one while the other nine are still clamping down fairly tightly?
Hi ya NicDo you think I could replace the bolts by loosening them off halfway then replacing one while the other nine are still clamping down fairly tightly?
The main reason for going for the stretch bolts was that, I was also considering ARP studs, as I'd already used them for the main bearing caps, and thought they would be the best option. For some reason I coldn't get hold of any, so went for what I considered the next best option ie stretch bolts.
I know I never considered standard bolts as when I removed the old ones they really didn't take much effort at all.
Actually as my wrist was still in plaster, the wife undid them for me. And she's all of 8st
So onto the stretch bolts, I honestly thought I'd end up snapping a bolt or stripping a thread they're just so bloody tight.
My advice would be to go and get a 24" breaker bar from Halfords, and use a hex (not muti point) socket. Buy an ordinary and a deep socket, the black impact type are the best. (I managed to split an ordinary socket straight down the side) on the second bolt
Got the impact type and no problem. Also Halfords do a really neat little extention bar, only about 2" to 2.5" long (could be useful) And of course you'll need an angle gauge.
As for the method of changing them, Mmmm
There are 3 stages to tightening the stretch bolts 15ft/lbs, 90 degrees and 90 degrees
If I were take a guess I'd suggest that the first 90 degrees is probably tighter than what you have now. So I think what I'd do is leave all your bolts as they are.
Undo No1 in the sequence, put in the stretch bolt to 15ft/lbs, back it off and go to 15ft/lbs again as per the instructions.
The go to 90 degrees
Then follow on with the 2nd, 3rd etc in the sequence.
When you've got this far at least all bolts will be at the same torque and ready for the final sequence. A black marker pen will help you remember where you're up to.
Thats how I'd do it in your situation, but it may pay to get a few further opinions.
Good luck with it and let us know if it works
http://interweb4u.com/griff500
Sounds like good advice to me
Is it a unanimous NO! for the radweld option then ("to seal weeping head gaskets" as it says on the tin) ?
My God That Daddy, you got that right!
Thanks for your help, All.
I think I'll start by taking off the ex. fanimold and checking the existing bolts for tightness. If the rear ones are obviouly looser then I'll take a gamble and nip 'em up. If they're already tight then I think the only way forward is a new composite gasket and a set of stretch bolts.
As for doing it right now? Big, Swinging, Hairy B****cks to that!
That Daddy said:
i think that engine as consumed enough of your labour with out much more
My God That Daddy, you got that right!
Thanks for your help, All.
I think I'll start by taking off the ex. fanimold and checking the existing bolts for tightness. If the rear ones are obviouly looser then I'll take a gamble and nip 'em up. If they're already tight then I think the only way forward is a new composite gasket and a set of stretch bolts.
As for doing it right now? Big, Swinging, Hairy B****cks to that!
Quinny said:
Thing is Nic, if your going to do that, it may be prudent to do both sides.
Not what you wanted to hear I know
Spot on, can you imagine Nick if you had the same thing happen on the other bank,i think maybe you could loose your temper somewhatNot what you wanted to hear I know
lets face it in 1 months time you would have forgot all the grief and be to busy doing this
good luck and keep us posted
Further ivestigations today, on a ramp (Thanks Corin!) have proved fruitful. With the starter out and a clear view of the block and lower side of the head - there it was - a nice dried blue streak running down from the top of the block on No.8 cylinder. So that's that little mystery solved. Thing now is why? I 'spose I may find out when I do the head gasket. More updates coming soon readers!
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