Raceproved Clutch problems
Discussion
I recently had a Raceproved clutch and slave cylinder fitted, however it's starting to drag and gear selection is becoming difficult. Seen as the clutch has only done 1000 miles since it was fitted it's unlikely to be a failed component(?).
The only thing I can think of to do before I have to get it looked at AGAIN, is to bleed it.....so, how do you bleed the clutch on a Tuscan?
If this doesn't fix it, it'll be the 3rd time a slave cylinder has blown on me in less than 10,000 miles. It's getting very annoying and VERY expensive!
The only thing I can think of to do before I have to get it looked at AGAIN, is to bleed it.....so, how do you bleed the clutch on a Tuscan?
If this doesn't fix it, it'll be the 3rd time a slave cylinder has blown on me in less than 10,000 miles. It's getting very annoying and VERY expensive!
dvs_dave said:
I recently had a Raceproved clutch and slave cylinder fitted, however it's starting to drag and gear selection is becoming difficult. Seen as the clutch has only done 1000 miles since it was fitted it's unlikely to be a failed component(?).
The only thing I can think of to do before I have to get it looked at AGAIN, is to bleed it.....so, how do you bleed the clutch on a Tuscan?
If this doesn't fix it, it'll be the 3rd time a slave cylinder has blown on me in less than 10,000 miles. It's getting very annoying and VERY expensive!
Is the plate clearance correct?The only thing I can think of to do before I have to get it looked at AGAIN, is to bleed it.....so, how do you bleed the clutch on a Tuscan?
If this doesn't fix it, it'll be the 3rd time a slave cylinder has blown on me in less than 10,000 miles. It's getting very annoying and VERY expensive!
I suppose it could be the master cylinder. That's still the original. How can you check the function of it? Will it leak if the plunger seals have blown?
The fluid level has not changed and there aren't the tell tale drips of oil coming from the bell housing.
This is the first Raceproved one to go. The previous two were the TVR/AP versions.
The clutch was fine when it was first installed and the clutch disengaged fully as you'd expect. It juddered a little when new, however others have also experienced this judder but found it went away after a couple of hundred miles. The judder has got progressivly worse in unison with the deterioration of the clutch operation.
The fluid level has not changed and there aren't the tell tale drips of oil coming from the bell housing.
This is the first Raceproved one to go. The previous two were the TVR/AP versions.
The clutch was fine when it was first installed and the clutch disengaged fully as you'd expect. It juddered a little when new, however others have also experienced this judder but found it went away after a couple of hundred miles. The judder has got progressivly worse in unison with the deterioration of the clutch operation.
Grrr. For f**ks sake. Now it's blown completely. Impossible to select gears. What is it with my car and clutches! It's bloody ridiculous!!!!1000 miles and it's f**ked already!!!!! I'm not happy. Worst thing is, it'll be the best part of 400 quid just to find out what's wrong with it.
What recourse options do I have? I supplied the clutch to the dealer who fitted it, so they're gonna tell me to go whistle as they'll claim I supplied faulty parts and its not their workmanship.
Seeing as you've now hd 3 clutches in there in quick succession it might be time to start looking at the rest of the components around the clutch that might be contributing to these premature failures .. to have one go is expected, to have two go is blinking unfortunate .. to have three go is unbelievable. they can't all be faulty components!
. Sorry trackcar said:
Seeing as you've now hd 3 clutches in there in quick succession it might be time to start looking at the rest of the components around the clutch that might be contributing to these premature failures .. to have one go is expected, to have two go is blinking unfortunate .. to have three go is unbelievable. they can't all be faulty components!
Aside from the master cylinder what else is there? How can you tell if that's blown? There don't appear to be any leaks anywhere throughout the system.I've also bled the clutch system but it made no difference. There didn't appear to be any air in the system.
If you can feel resistance in the clutch pedal through all its travel, as in normal operation, and there is no fluid loss then that would suggest the hydraulics are ok. So it may be-
The plunger/rod linking the pedal to the master piston is not pushing in enough to release the clutch, possible if the locking nut has come loose
or
Spring plate/diaphram has failed, possible if badly set up and spring over stretched
or
Debrise in the clutch mechanism/plates possibly caused by friction material failure.
If its the first then easy fix, if it the later gearbox out job
All a best guess of course
Hope you get it sorted, let us know the out come
Just on a note, I have really struggled to bleed the clutch system in the traditional way and find if I pump the clutch enough, whilst topping up with fluid, the air actually comes up and out through the master cylinder reservoire, possibly my car is the exception here.
The plunger/rod linking the pedal to the master piston is not pushing in enough to release the clutch, possible if the locking nut has come loose
or
Spring plate/diaphram has failed, possible if badly set up and spring over stretched
or
Debrise in the clutch mechanism/plates possibly caused by friction material failure.
If its the first then easy fix, if it the later gearbox out job
All a best guess of course
Hope you get it sorted, let us know the out come
Just on a note, I have really struggled to bleed the clutch system in the traditional way and find if I pump the clutch enough, whilst topping up with fluid, the air actually comes up and out through the master cylinder reservoire, possibly my car is the exception here.
Edited by JayB on Monday 9th July 23:29
I'm no expert here but a few things :
You have replaced the entire clutch assembly and slave 3 times and you say the slave has failed every time.
There are only 2 possibilities left.
1. Someone has fitted a master cylinder which is larger and pushing down more liquid that a smaller cylinder. Forcing the Diaphram overcentre or just excerting too much pressure against a back stop. Suggest checking the serial no's against a similar car.
2. One known issue with the twin plate clutch in the TVR is that the diaphram fingers can be pushed over centre and this causes the fingers to break - adding extra load on to the slave cylinder : which then quickly fails.
Problem is often caused by the pedal back stop adjuster not being correctly adjusted.
If I'm just shoting in the dark - fair enough but no one else is offering problem analysis.
Hope you get it sorted
You have replaced the entire clutch assembly and slave 3 times and you say the slave has failed every time.
There are only 2 possibilities left.
1. Someone has fitted a master cylinder which is larger and pushing down more liquid that a smaller cylinder. Forcing the Diaphram overcentre or just excerting too much pressure against a back stop. Suggest checking the serial no's against a similar car.
2. One known issue with the twin plate clutch in the TVR is that the diaphram fingers can be pushed over centre and this causes the fingers to break - adding extra load on to the slave cylinder : which then quickly fails.
Problem is often caused by the pedal back stop adjuster not being correctly adjusted.
If I'm just shoting in the dark - fair enough but no one else is offering problem analysis.
Hope you get it sorted
I'll have a fiddle with the pedal/master cylinder adjustments to explore the possibilty of a loose locknut causing the cylinder rod to shorten or lengthen. I'll also check the pedal stop adjustment.
If the slave cylinder is being pushed out too far, past the release point, would this start to squeeze the clutch plates back together again?
If the slave cylinder is being pushed out too far, past the release point, would this start to squeeze the clutch plates back together again?
Ribol said:
Daftlad said:
Is the plate clearance correct?
Out of interest how is that adjusted then?Daftlad said:
Ribol said:
Daftlad said:
Is the plate clearance correct?
Out of interest how is that adjusted then?The hydraulics can't be altered, the slave can't be reached, must be at the clutch master rod/pedal end of things I guess.
Two things;
I never knew you could adjust the pedal travel.
I was lead to belive from previous posts that the clutch finger breakage was caused by vibrations from the engine creating stress fractures in the fingers. Is it as simple as adjusting the pedal travel to stop finger failure?
I never knew you could adjust the pedal travel.
I was lead to belive from previous posts that the clutch finger breakage was caused by vibrations from the engine creating stress fractures in the fingers. Is it as simple as adjusting the pedal travel to stop finger failure?
johnbear said:
Two things;
I never knew you could adjust the pedal travel.
I was lead to belive from previous posts that the clutch finger breakage was caused by vibrations from the engine creating stress fractures in the fingers. Is it as simple as adjusting the pedal travel to stop finger failure?
Not heard the vibration theory before but on "normal" cars the two main causes of finger failures are seized bearings and too much throw.I never knew you could adjust the pedal travel.
I was lead to belive from previous posts that the clutch finger breakage was caused by vibrations from the engine creating stress fractures in the fingers. Is it as simple as adjusting the pedal travel to stop finger failure?
If the diaphragm is pushed too far the fingers can snap. So it would make sense that there would be a pedal stop and it would also suggest that any adjustment should be spot on and checked regularily to give them half a chance or survival.
johnbear said:
Two things;
I never knew you could adjust the pedal travel.
I was lead to belive from previous posts that the clutch finger breakage was caused by vibrations from the engine creating stress fractures in the fingers. Is it as simple as adjusting the pedal travel to stop finger failure?
Vibrations I never knew you could adjust the pedal travel.
I was lead to belive from previous posts that the clutch finger breakage was caused by vibrations from the engine creating stress fractures in the fingers. Is it as simple as adjusting the pedal travel to stop finger failure?
That's a good one.
Anyway - I'm off to get a new bubble for me spirit level.
Well, after a bit of fiddling and troubleshooting I'm fairly confident that it's a hydraulic problem. After a good bit of pumping the clutch pedal, I managed to be able to select a gear whilst the engine was running. However, as I kept the clutch pedal depressed, the clutch would gradually start to drag and judder more and more until the car actually started to move forward.
To me this indicates a gradual loss of hydraulic pressure caused by a leak somewhere. The thing is there don't appear to be any leaks anywhere. The bellhousing and master cylinder are dry and the fluid level isn't low either. Perhaps it's a primary seal that's blown somewhere and the secondary seals are keeping the oil in the system but not the pressure?
Any other thoughts before I call my friends at the AA?
To me this indicates a gradual loss of hydraulic pressure caused by a leak somewhere. The thing is there don't appear to be any leaks anywhere. The bellhousing and master cylinder are dry and the fluid level isn't low either. Perhaps it's a primary seal that's blown somewhere and the secondary seals are keeping the oil in the system but not the pressure?
Any other thoughts before I call my friends at the AA?
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