Can't trickle charge - so what now?
Discussion
Might sound a bit of a bodge, but personally I'd leave the bonnet unlocked and fit a battery isolator. Costs a few pence. I have one on one of my other cars and it starts like a rocket every time.
This is assuming you don't alarm the car, but this is frankly unnecessary when garaged. You'd have to be pretty damned smart to break into garage, deisolate battery, reset a now chirping alarm and get past the immobiliser.
This is assuming you don't alarm the car, but this is frankly unnecessary when garaged. You'd have to be pretty damned smart to break into garage, deisolate battery, reset a now chirping alarm and get past the immobiliser.
Buffoon said:
Might sound a bit of a bodge, but personally I'd leave the bonnet unlocked and fit a battery isolator. Costs a few pence. I have one on one of my other cars and it starts like a rocket every time.
This is assuming you don't alarm the car, but this is frankly unnecessary when garaged. You'd have to be pretty damned smart to break into garage, deisolate battery, reset a now chirping alarm and get past the immobiliser.
buff, could you elaborate a little more on this process? my garage is secured nightly so no problems like that - just want a car that'll start regularly! This is assuming you don't alarm the car, but this is frankly unnecessary when garaged. You'd have to be pretty damned smart to break into garage, deisolate battery, reset a now chirping alarm and get past the immobiliser.
Burba said:
Buffoon said:
Might sound a bit of a bodge, but personally I'd leave the bonnet unlocked and fit a battery isolator. Costs a few pence. I have one on one of my other cars and it starts like a rocket every time.
This is assuming you don't alarm the car, but this is frankly unnecessary when garaged. You'd have to be pretty damned smart to break into garage, deisolate battery, reset a now chirping alarm and get past the immobiliser.
buff, could you elaborate a little more on this process? my garage is secured nightly so no problems like that - just want a car that'll start regularly! This is assuming you don't alarm the car, but this is frankly unnecessary when garaged. You'd have to be pretty damned smart to break into garage, deisolate battery, reset a now chirping alarm and get past the immobiliser.
At worst you can mount near to battery, and run a new positive lead from the battery to the switch, with existing connections onto the other end of switch.
Again I don't know how practical this is on your car.
This can alternatively be done on the negative side, but has the disadvantage of still needing to disconnect the battery when working on the electrics - not essential but good practice.
Burba said:
thanks for the technical help Buff.
would a normal TVR garage be able to fit one of these?
also, how do they stop a battery from running dry - is it by 'isolating' anything feeding from the battery - hence the battery remaining 'charged' for a sensible duration?
Yep and Yep!would a normal TVR garage be able to fit one of these?
also, how do they stop a battery from running dry - is it by 'isolating' anything feeding from the battery - hence the battery remaining 'charged' for a sensible duration?
If you don't feel you want to DIY, get a reputable Auto-Electricial to do it. Can't see a TVR garage being bothered unless it is in for something else
Burba said:
would a normal TVR garage be able to fit one of these?
also, how do they stop a battery from running dry - is it by 'isolating' anything feeding from the battery - hence the battery remaining 'charged' for a sensible duration?
Yep, on the example I linked to there is a fused link wire - it's intended to be a security feature so that your clock / radio / alarm etc will continue to run but if someone tries to start the car the fuse will blow and the power will be cut off.also, how do they stop a battery from running dry - is it by 'isolating' anything feeding from the battery - hence the battery remaining 'charged' for a sensible duration?
If you want to use it to prevent battery drain, you would need to remove the fuse. It will then essentially disconnect all power drains which would mean the battery should stay charged longer. But you will lose the clock, alarm, radio code and presets.
I bought a solar charger from Maplin but it hasn't really helped in this lousy weather.
miniman said:
Yep, on the example I linked to there is a fused link wire - it's intended to be a security feature so that your clock / radio / alarm etc will continue to run but if someone tries to start the car the fuse will blow and the power will be cut off...
But you will lose the clock, alarm, radio code and presets.
Buff: I could get them to fit when i take it in for warranty work - door catch weirdly stopped working after taking possession! But you will lose the clock, alarm, radio code and presets.
Mini: would no battery feed to the car whatsoever, affect the alarm/immob/ecu upon reconnection?
also, how long on average does the battery last if these things are draining on it? 2 weeks? 7 days?
I had an isolator on my Chim. It was mounted in the passenger footwell and isolated power to the solenoid, starter, etc etc. There was a small bypass feed which went to the ECU, alarm, radio etc - didn't have central locking so nothing to worry about there. It was fitted previous to my ownership but did the job brilliantly. Also served as a secondary anti theft device, as if you didn't know it was there, you'd never spot it!
I don't think that having no power feed at all is too much of a problem, but my Chim has the very basic original alarm system (i.e. operated off the door locks via the key, no plipper etc.). However, if the battery is going to go flat anyway then is there really any difference? Mine seems to hang on for about 2 weeks or so with the normal alarm / clock / radio / ECU drain. I have a booster pack so I can jump start it in a few seconds and keep the booster in the boot (assuming that whatever journey I do puts enough charge back in the battery to at least open the boot!)
Biggriff said:
An isolator will introduce an 'electronic shock' to the ECU each time it is reconnected. ECU's do not like this sort of treatment and the result can be very expensive to rectify.
True. Cars also tend to run rich until adaptives have had time to settle down. Who's daft idea was this anyway?
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